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Old 04-28-2010, 11:02 AM   #1
panhandler62
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Air plumbing

I have a pretty simple setup but I am not sure that I have all the bits to make it function properly.

I have firestone 2600s for the rear, a small tank, a compressor and a "paddle control." The compressor and controller were bought as a set (with a few fittings and some line) from Air Ride Tech. Their diagram doesn't include a tank.

The basic ida that the tank goes between the pump and the panel is obvious but I have a couple posers (well, posers for me at least) left.

1) Where does the waste air go when you push a paddle down?

2) As near as I can work things out.... the pump is activated when you hit "up" on a paddle.: Can I hook this set up up as shown and just count on the tank to be a "buffer" or do I need to conect these circuits to pressure switches of some kind to release air from the tank (which would also sugest a third pressure circuit for the compressor to maintain the tank pressure independent of what I'm doing withhte switches.)

Am I over-thinking this or do I need more stuff?

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Last edited by panhandler62; 04-28-2010 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:29 AM   #2
Shane
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Re: Air plumbing

those look like manual valves and if so then I'm pretty sure the "exiting" air exhausts out the back of the valve into the cab

Last edited by Shane; 04-28-2010 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:58 AM   #3
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Re: Air plumbing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane View Post
those look like manual valves and if so then I'm pretty sure the "exiting" air exhausts out the back of the valve into the cab
That is correct. On manual paddle valves, the dump is out the back of the panel.


Here are some great diagrams from the Suicide Doors website- LINK

[IMG]http://www.*****************/files/how_to/wire-diagrams/compressor.gif[/IMG]


[IMG]http://www.*****************/files/how_to/wire-diagrams/8valve.gif[/IMG]
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:00 PM   #4
panhandler62
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Re: Air plumbing

So...

I need a check valve, a relay, a pressure switch and a gauge, correct?

My tank has 3 ports:
........1 port feeds air to the panel ("t" on this line for the gauge?)
........1 port has the pressure switch
........1 port is the feed from the compressor.

The wiring on the back of the panel is not used at all then? (I think it was desinged to run tankless.)
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Old 04-28-2010, 02:25 PM   #5
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Re: Air plumbing

Quote:
I need a check valve, a relay, a pressure switch and a gauge, correct?
The pressure switch should all be included w/the air comp if purchased from Ride tech. The check valve & tank pressure gauge are optional & not necessary for function.

There should be an 'in' & 'out' on the back of the manual control panel paddles. Air goes from the comp into one port on the tank. Out of the tank (from another tank port) to the control panel. Out of the control panel to the air bag. The air 'dumps' @ the back of the control panel. If your controlling each front bag independently, 'T' off of the discharge line (from the tank to the control paddles) running one line to each paddle.

The gauge lines 'T' off of the discharge lines (from the paddles to the bags) & go to the gauge. This way when you add or remove air from the bags, the gauge knows the pressure in each line/bag.
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Last edited by SCOTI; 04-28-2010 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 02:43 PM   #6
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Re: Air plumbing

I think the pressure switch is integral to the panel.

The kit is an "ARC1600"
http://www.ridetech.com/shop/suspens...al-switch.html

It's kind of minimal, but I'm not trying to build a fast system, just an onboard system that will allow me to adapt the ride/height to the circumstances.

Can I just run the pump to the tank and a lne from the tank to the air inlet T on the controller and otherwise hook it up just like the diagram here?

http://www.ridetech.com/pdfinstructi...cs/ARC1600.pdf
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Last edited by panhandler62; 04-28-2010 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:50 PM   #7
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Re: Air plumbing

i bought the pneumatic switch panel from airbagit.com, and the dump button has one of the smallest holes i have ever seen, i am going to drill mine out and rethread it, but if this panel has the same release setup, i would reccomend drilling it out
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:55 PM   #8
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Re: Air plumbing

that looks like a very expensive "kit" for no more than you get. check with suicidedoors on a small compressor, air line and manual valves. i'm real confident they can beat that price.
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Old 04-28-2010, 04:00 PM   #9
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Re: Air plumbing

Quote:
Originally Posted by panhandler62 View Post
I think the pressure switch is integral to the panel.

The kit is an "ARC1600"
http://www.ridetech.com/shop/suspens...al-switch.html

It's kind of minimal, but I'm not trying to build a fast system, just an onboard system that will allow me to adapt the ride/height to the circumstances.

Can I just run the pump to the tank and a lne from the tank to the air inlet T on the controller and otherwise hook it up just like the diagram here?

http://www.ridetech.com/pdfinstructi...cs/ARC1600.pdf
The ARC1600 is electric & looks like it controls solenoids for valves. I would check w/Tony from Ride Tech as I'm not familiar w/that set-up. The other control panel they sell is pnuematic only & doesn't require any of the electronics.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 04-28-2010 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:08 AM   #10
panhandler62
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Re: Air plumbing

I'm waiting for feedback from Ride tech. rather than start a new thread... I thought I would address two other questions by hijacking my own thread... lol

1) Do I need bump stops for the rear suspension? The stock ones are (obviously) long gone and useless, but I don't think I should really let the suspension bottom out on the bags themselves.

2) At the other exream; do I need to teather the rear to prevent over-extending the bags?
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:19 PM   #11
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Re: Air plumbing

Bump stops are always a good idea. Set the height of them so they touch @ the same time the bags bottom out if that's the only thing limiting the travel.

On my truck, the shocks @ full extension kept the bag from over extending; see if they'll limit the travel before doing extra work. Double convoluted bags aren't as prone to damage when @ full extension vs. a sleeve style bag (over extending will destroy them).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 04-29-2010 at 12:20 PM.
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