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Old 05-03-2010, 03:43 PM   #26
RustyDan
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Re: Driveshaft

CARRIER BEARING CONTINUED..........
Yea I see "lowering" is popular. And thats cool.
But Mines stock ride height. Inherited truck from original owner. DAD, Replaced it at least once professionally, Ballanced etc. Again...He sugjested annual replacement.
Can't be sure it wasn't replaced second time in these last 5 years. Gonna zoom accross the Desert to Vegas this Fri. So obviously feedback is welcome...Don't want to be postin a horror story and footing a tow bill.
Haven't really been poundin out the miles. Too expensive at MPH I get.
But I wouldn't drive much else anyway. (Word on the Bearing?)
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'72 C10 Longhorn-very daily
'86 C10 Van (mothballed)
previous; '65 C10 shorty
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:05 PM   #27
Fitz
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Re: Driveshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by Longhorn Man View Post
there is no real good reason to do this. The 2 piece is stronger than your average one piece, and it is WAY cheaper to build your 2 piece with top of the line parts, then it would be to properly do a one piece.
All things being equal for a STOCK truck this is probably true but many of us have highly modified trucks. HandsomeRob is running the same big block I do with a longer than stock trans. I don't know how far he moved his rear trans mount but mine moved almost 12 inches....leaving me with a driveshaft about 39 inches long on an SWB Stepside. Not much sense running a two piece when the span is that short.

Last edited by Fitz; 05-03-2010 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:06 PM   #28
russj67
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Re: Driveshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by handsomerob View Post
This is an article that might square things up for everyone, it's about cars but the same applies to trucks.

like I said I used a single shaft but I changed engine and tranny, and the the stock shaft was to long and had the wrong style yoke, also for this aplication the single shaft will give the right feel for hard launches.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...ech/index.html
Thanks for the article! I have been having trouble with my 2 piece "clunking" when I first take off when the truck has been sitting for a while. I've been wanting to check the angles, but didn't know what they are supposed to be set at. Sounds like the angles should add up to zero. It also states, which is not what people have told me, that there should not be any compound angles. My rear-end is not completely centered, so I'm wondering if this is contributing to my problem.
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67 Stepside
Atomic Orange
Fastburn 385
TH350

The wheels are
fronts are 255-45-18 with 5" bs. 18x8 wheel
rears are 295-45-20 with 5" bs. 20x10 wheel (barely fit)

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Old 05-03-2010, 04:22 PM   #29
leddzepp
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Re: Driveshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by russj67 View Post
My rear-end is not completely centered, so I'm wondering if this is contributing to my problem.
It is.
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:36 PM   #30
RustyDan
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Re: Driveshaft

Fitz,
Yea 39"? that seems reasonable for a one piece. To address the difference...I have in my 72, "stock" engine, tranny, rear end. just rebuilt is all. Only concerned about typical carrier bearing wear, lube intervals, and longevity. Basicly, Am I cool? Or am I doing a cb replacement right now?
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"Do not follow where the path may lead.
Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail."

"SEMPER FI"
Never retired-Always a Marine

'72 C10 Longhorn-very daily
'86 C10 Van (mothballed)
previous; '65 C10 shorty
& bunches of M/C's
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