New Warn lock outs very hot after driving, problem?

[92470]

I have a 87' V10 that I had the original automatic hubs replaced in with a set of new Warn lock outs. I never noticed this before, but after a drive this weekend, about 20 miles or so, I bent down to check my tire presure and noticed the hubs were really hot. Not warm, but hot! I was in 2WD and the hubs were in the free postion. I found this out by my arm tounching one of them on accident.

Is this normal? If not, what could be the problem? I had a shop do this, I didn't switch them out. One of the original automatic hubs was making noise, that why I switched. Any opinions or advice is appreciated. I just don't want to write this off and cause damage to something. Thanks!

[OrrieG]

I have never had a set of hubs get hot enought that I could not turn them in or out with my bear hands unless I had been using the brakes alot right before changing them. Was it both sides or just one? The hub itself will not generate any heat, it has to come from something else, bearing dragging over heating the hub, brake pads dragging over heating the disc and hub. I'd start with the basics, is the third member filled with oil? Pull the hub cap and make sure it was lubed right and is getting lube. Jack it up and check the wheel assy for free play. Check brake calipers. The previous hub noise may have been something else. Also make sure they are completely disengaging.

[donut]

Personally, back to the shop I'd go.
I don't know about the Auto hubs- to manual swap, but there are folks that are MUCH more knowledgeable than I am.

Did the shop touch the wheel bearings? Are the brakes dragging?

[92470]

I know the shop repacked the front wheel bearing and replaced the seals when they switched out the autos for lock outs.

Yes, both of them were really hot (same relative temperature by feel).

My first thought was that the front brakes may be dragging, so I think I'm going to jack it up tonight and spin the front wheels to try and determine if I can notice any drag on them. I'm not sure if this is the best method, but chime in if you have any other ideas. Figure I'll do this first before taking it back to the shop.

Thanks for the replies, nice to have same thoughts on what is wrong.

[LONGHAIR]

Sounds to me like they have the wheel bearings too tight. The 3-piece lock-nut is a bit "fiddley" for people who don't mess with them all of the time. I have taken a lot of them apart where the pin was smashed because the previous guy didn't get them aligned properly. The passenger's side has a tendancy to tighten itself in that case.

[TLoz]

I checked mine tonight. They were warm/hot also. Measured the temp and they were at 107 and 95 F. Everything else was around 87 degrees. This was after 20 miles or so. Brakes drag a little, as in normal with disks. No problem touching them or locking in or out. I'm taking it on a hundred mile trip tomorrow. I'll report on the temps. This is the first long trip since complete rebuild.

[TLoz]

Just checked out temps after the trip. The hubs were 90 F. The brakes were 88 F. The only other thing I noticed was the transfer case (203 with kit) was 117 F. Sound normal? Did you check the brakes out yet?

[92470]

Wow, I appreciate the temperature feedback! I called the shop that did the work and they said to bring it back in and they would take a look at it. I haven't had time, but am planning on it this week. They said probably brake drag. I'm assuming you are using a laser temp reader that you point at the surface to measure? I should get one of those and do my own test. I wonder if Harbor Freight sells those?! I usually buy my "every once in awhile tools" from them. I will definately let you know what I find out. I hate to take it to the shop, they find nothing wrong, and then I get charged for labor. Maybe the hubs being hot is "normal"? I really apprecaiate your follow up. Thanks!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by TLoz

Just checked out temps after the trip. The hubs were 90 F. The brakes were 88 F. The only other thing I noticed was the transfer case (203 with kit) was 117 F. Sound normal? Did you check the brakes out yet?

I don't think 117 would be out of normal for the xfer case, lots of moving parts, especially if the exhaust is running close to it. In Arizona I used to drive mine when the air temperature was 117...

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

Hmm sounds like wheel bearings or brakes dragging maybe but I doubt it shouldn't make them that damn hot! Let us know what you find out man.

[84lwb]

had that happen to my old 78 years ago.wheel bearings went bad in it. ended up having to replace the hubs,spindle,and brakes,along with the bearings,mine were hot enough that the split second I touched them they gave me a blister on my arm!

[92470]

I don't think mine were hot enough to cause a blister, but too hot to hold for sure. I'm taking into the shop after work today. I hate these situations of taking back something for a issue you think is related to the previous fix. I'll let you guys know what I find out. They will surely have it ready tomorrow after work.

[92470]

Well, problem solved. Shop just called and said that the right brake caliper was frozen solid and the left was darn close to the same. So, for all of you who guessed brake drag, bingo. Total is going to be $300 for parts and labor. Didn't sound too bad, and it beats me doing it. Thanks for all the replies!

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by 92470

I know the shop repacked the front wheel bearing and replaced the seals when they switched out the autos for lock outs.

This statement is exactly why I "dismissed" the notion of dragging brakes. They should have caught this while it was apart. The brakes had to be taken apart to pack the wheel bearings...I would be in the guys face over this one.

[donut]

I'm with LONGHAIR on this one. I was leaning toward bearings. I just repacked the bearings on mine and after driving, I check the hubs to see if they are hot.

[84lwb]

they should have caught that!My guess would be that you paid them to repack the bearings and they didn't! I think I would start looking for a new mechanic!

[OrrieG]

Yep, they would have had to press back the caliper to get it off. Or maybe they just pounded it off and back on??? Time to find a new shop.

[92470]

I will bring it up with the shop, because I have no problem with confronting this type of thing, but one thing I will mention is that the hubs were replaced last September. So the truck sat for 8 months without being driven. It was in my garage the whole time, but could it sitting for this period of time without being driven caused them to freeze? I have heard of this happening, so maybe it was my error in not driving it much? I agree on finding a new shop though, I don't get a "comfortable" feeling taking it to them.

[donut]

This "could" be a whole 'nother situation then, I was under the assumption this was recently done. That's why I said take it back. I had one of my brake calipers freeze after 2 mos while I had the truck apart. (but it was in my pine tree garage) so yes it can happen, but mine almost always froze "open", so the brakes just plain didn't work. That doesn't mean one of the rubber lines isn't coming apart inside, preventing the caliper from fully releasing.

[Sub-versive]

Originally Posted by 92470

I will bring it up with the shop, because I have no problem with confronting this type of thing, but one thing I will mention is that the hubs were replaced last September. So the truck sat for 8 months without being driven. It was in my garage the whole time, but could it sitting for this period of time without being driven caused them to freeze? I have heard of this happening, so maybe it was my error in not driving it much? I agree on finding a new shop though, I don't get a "comfortable" feeling taking it to them.

Old brake fluid can have water in it and freeze , causing a whole mess of problems. Had this happen before, it locked up the passenger side caliper and wore into the rotor. Didn't notice it a first, it wasn't until it started making noise that I looked at it.