Bed to Cab gap question

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Conundrum

I have thought about that and plan to use the polyurethane body mounts to help thighten it a little more than the factory style rubber mounts would. I know it won't eliminate it but they should help, and I am also thinking of a way to try and stiffen the frame up a little without putting in a roll bar setup. And with it being a 2wd I plan for it to sit to low to really do any hauling other than maybe a cooler and lawn chairs, and i'm not to big on off roading.

You can really strengthen up the frame by adding a layer of 2"x3/16" steel flat bar to the top & bottom flanges of the stock frame rail. These are the areas that contribute the most to the bending strength of the stock frame.

It doesn't have to be fully welded in place either. Stitch welding by putting down a two inch weld and leaving an inch of open area before the next two inch long weld will cut down 33% of the welding work and minimally impact how strong the connection is. Alternate the open areas side to side on the flat bar so none of them line up across from each other. We do stitch welds all the time in structural frames and fabrication.

[Conundrum]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

You can really strengthen up the frame by adding a layer of 2"x3/16" steel flat bar to the top & bottom flanges of the stock frame rail. These are the areas that contribute the most to the bending strength of the stock frame.

It doesn't have to be fully welded in place either. Stitch welding by putting down a two inch weld and leaving an inch of open area before the next two inch long weld will cut down 33% of the welding work and minimally impact how strong the connection is. Alternate the open areas side to side on the flat bar so none of them line up across from each other. We do stitch welds all the time in structural frames and fabrication.

I haven't really ever thought about doing it like that, it's a good idea.

I was just thinking about getting a large dimple die and some 3/16" plate, put a hole every 1-1 1/2" and basically box the frame in but not add as much weight. The way you described seems much easier and cheaper, as I wouldn't have to buy a die or as much steel.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Conundrum

I haven't really ever thought about doing it like that, it's a good idea.

I was just thinking about getting a large dimple die and some 3/16" plate, put a hole every 1-1 1/2" and basically box the frame in but not add as much weight. The way you described seems much easier and cheaper, as I wouldn't have to buy a die or as much steel.

Think of the frame rails as an I-beam with the center web offset to one side. Most of the strength of an I-beam is from the outer flanges. The center web is pretty much only there to keep the top & bottom flanges in place. The strength comes from how far apart the top & bottom flanges are apart and how thick the flanges are.

In the case of our frame rails it is the top & bottom flanges of the frame rail that give it the most strength and is where we can increase the strength since we can't easily move the flanges further apart.

Adding material to the top & bottom flanges of the frame rail will make a huge improvement in bending strength. If you add 3/16" flat bar it will pretty close to double the resistance to bending the frame has and greatly reduce the deflection when loaded.

If you want additional torsional strength to help resist twisting then adding the box plate to the side of the frame rail will increase that.