Hello, my name is jaros44sr and I have a problem...

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by wzuke

Replace the rocker arm with a self aligning rocker arm.

It's not as easy as that. The original "alignment" was done from the pushrod side. This is either from the slots in the heads, or from the guide-plates that are retained by the screw-in style studs...But if you try to control the rocker arm from the valve stem side (self aligning rocker arms) and the pushrod side at the same time, there will be binding of some kind. Not good....

[Hubscrub]

Originally Posted by wzuke

Replace the rocker arm with a self aligning rocker arm.

X2 my 85 was doing the same thing we pulled the head and took it to the machine shop and found nothing, he told me to get self aligning rocker arms i got them at the local parts place told them late 90's v-8 i believe but i have had no more problems with that anymore and that was 5 or 6 years ago

[jaros44sr]

All right guys, I'm getting conflicting thoughts here, I'm not saying these self-aligning rocker arms aren't good, or that they didn't work for you, I'm just not ready to try something new to me

Seems like the best fix so far is to pull the stud, freeze the new stud and tap it in and pin it. Then buy a new rocker arm, ball socket, push rod

What do you all think, you've been great so far helping me with the problem

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

All right guys, I'm getting conflicting thoughts here, I'm not saying these self-aligning rocker arms aren't good, or that they didn't work for you, I'm just not ready to try something new to me

Seems like the best fix so far is to pull the stud, freeze the new stud and tap it in and pin it. Then buy a new rocker arm, ball socket, push rod

What do you all think, you've been great so far helping me with the problem

I like this idea too especially since you know you are going to do a rebuild down the road. As far as the metal in the carbon, it probably has a crap load of hard miles on it, right? Flush that puppy out as much as possible and run one of those rare earth magnets on your drain plug. Probably get plenty of miles out of it. good luck

[Hubscrub]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

All right guys, I'm getting conflicting thoughts here, I'm not saying these self-aligning rocker arms aren't good, or that they didn't work for you, I'm just not ready to try something new to me

Seems like the best fix so far is to pull the stud, freeze the new stud and tap it in and pin it. Then buy a new rocker arm, ball socket, push rod

What do you all think, you've been great so far helping me with the problem

the self align. rockers look like the old stock rockers and bolt on the same way they just have a small tit on each side where it rides on the top of the valve same process as a old type rocker just some info if you didn't know

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I like this idea too especially since you know you are going to do a rebuild down the road. As far as the metal in the carbon, it probably has a crap load of hard miles on it, right? Flush that puppy out as much as possible and run one of those rare earth magnets on your drain plug. Probably get plenty of miles out of it. good luck

Yep, was goin' to flush with seafoam, these guys around here seem to really like it. Good idea on the magnet, plus I'll be changing the oil alot till I get it where I want it. Now I just have to find out where to buy parts

Originally Posted by Hubscrub

the self align. rockers look like the old stock rockers and bolt on the same way they just have a small tit on each side where it rides on the top of the valve same process as a old type rocker just some info if you didn't know

Didn't know, that is what this forum is all about...KNOWLEDGE, thank you

[wzuke]

I had the same type of rocker arm misalignment which wore a slot in the stud. I tried several new pushrods and rocker arm/ball sets, they all misaligned almost immediately. I used one self aligning rocker arm. I guess that the wear in the push rod bore and the "slack" in the rocker arm are such that there is no bind. I have driven it every day for more than a year without incident. I did checked the pushrod to make sure there was no scuffing from the pushrod bore and no abnormal wear on the self aligning rocker arm. I agree that there is a may be a chance for a bind so I would make sure to inspect it after I ran it for a few miles.

[stevencvn72]

Do you have to drill out the stud hole, or can you just tap it after you remove the stud. Do you need a bottom tap

If you decide to go this route, this tool would help:http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/5306/10002/-1

Of course you can find them cheaper. Use it as a spacer to remove your old stud (or just use washers) then use it as a guide when you tap the hole for the new screw in stud so it's good and straight. No drilling. I tapped mine for a 7/16-14" base thread size with a bottoming tap without removing the heads. (Not sure if we're talking about a SBC here, but should be the same).

Here's the studs I used:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MR...5&autoview=sku

I can't say this would be stronger than putting in a new press in plug and pinning it, but I can say I'm pretty "slow" sometimes and pulled this off with no problems. Good luck.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by stevencvn72

If you decide to go this route, this tool would help:http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/5306/10002/-1

Of course you can find them cheaper. Use it as a spacer to remove your old stud (or just use washers) then use it as a guide when you tap the hole for the new screw in stud so it's good and straight. No drilling. I tapped mine for a 7/16-14" base thread size with a bottoming tap without removing the heads. (Not sure if we're talking about a SBC here, but should be the same).

Here's the studs I used:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MR...5&autoview=sku

I can't say this would be stronger than putting in a new press in plug and pinning it, but I can say I'm pretty "slow" sometimes and pulled this off with no problems. Good luck.

If I go this route, do you have to remove any metal from the cylinder head stud boss. Seems like it would be easier to tap a hole then to try and press a stud in

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

If I go this route, do you have to remove any metal from the cylinder head stud boss. Seems like it would be easier to tap a hole then to try and press a stud in

I agree if you don't have to drill out the stud boss it will be a lot easier than pinning. If you do have to drill the stud boss, try using a reamer instead of a drill. Good luck! let us know how it works out.

[RustyParts]

Jaros44sr, you should also check the top of the valve stem, sometimes they will wear to one side. Pretty easy to square up again using a good file.

[stevencvn72]

If I go this route, do you have to remove any metal from the cylinder head stud boss. Seems like it would be easier to tap a hole then to try and press a stud in

Nah...As long as you're using non shouldered rocker studs like the ones in the link.