Wheel spacers and longer studs - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

big mike71 · 06-19-2010, 01:52 PM

I want to lower my truck, But to do it I will need a 1/2" spacer on the rear. My question is in order to put in longer studs do you have to pull the axle? Thanks.

72BlckButy · 06-19-2010, 02:52 PM

Mike, you shouldn't have too, but that will depend on how long the new studs actually are.

I needed to have longer studs on the rear with my new wheels and I was able to remove the drum, knock out the old ones with a BFH, and then "draw" in the new longer studs with a socket, and a stack of washers. You might have to turn the axle to get the right spot to fit the new studs in but overall as long as they are not excessively longer, you should be ok.

raycow · 06-19-2010, 03:42 PM

There is enough room to install the studs without pulling the shafts, but it's not the best idea to hammer them out. The hammer blows get transferred to the spider pin and ultimately to the differential bearings. A tool is made specifically for this purpose
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...auto_tool.html
but it is hard to justify the cost for a one-time job. You might want to see if a tool rental outfit has one.

Having said all this, I have hammered them myself and haven't destroyed any rear ends.....yet.

Ray

big mike71 · 06-19-2010, 05:07 PM

Thanks

ERASER5 · 06-19-2010, 11:34 PM

Yea! A new use for my ball joint/hub C-press! Woot!

68_chop_top · 06-20-2010, 08:44 AM

The 3/4" wheel spacers I used came with studs and holes and nuts for the original studs. Their studs where in-between my studs. Just put the ring (spacer) on like your wheel and use their flat nuts to tighten spacer to the wheel hub. The spacer's studs where then used to mount my wheels using my lug nuts. Hope this makes sense. I ordered 5 on 5" to a 5 on 5" with 3/4" width. It was called a wheel adaptor.

7T2 · 06-20-2010, 09:39 AM

For the money that adapters cost it's almost worth it to avoid the work. The way you are describing, you would have to buy new studs and the spacers, then do all the work to swap them out. When you're done you have a setup that probably isn't as durable as your original.

You can get a set of two billet aluminum spacers all over the net for $90 that will do exactly what you want to do, and they are engineered to give you the same durability as the stock setup. You can get them in the same bolt pattern, or you can get them as adapters to change the bolt pattern.

http://adaptitusa.com/

Jacfourteen · 06-20-2010, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Yea! A new use for my ball joint/hub C-press! Woot!

I was just thinking ball joint press/C-clamp as I was reading this post.

As far as the strength of adapters vs spacers it seems to me that if you use a spacer then the wheel is still connected directly to the axle so if the spacer were to crack the wheel would still be attached. But if you had an adapter crack then the wheel could come off. I know it's a long shot that either would happen, but I'm just sayin...

ERASER5 · 06-20-2010, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7T2

For the money that adapters cost it's almost worth it to avoid the work. The way you are describing, you would have to buy new studs and the spacers, then do all the work to swap them out. When you're done you have a setup that probably isn't as durable as your original.

You can get a set of two billet aluminum spacers all over the net for $90 that will do exactly what you want to do, and they are engineered to give you the same durability as the stock setup. You can get them in the same bolt pattern, or you can get them as adapters to change the bolt pattern.

http://adaptitusa.com/

Not 3/4" thick spacers. 1'+ yes, 3/4" No. The 3/4" spacer makes up for the narrow rear when you put disc brakes on the front. I have yet to find 1 piece 3/4" spacers or adapters.

7T2 · 06-20-2010, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Not 3/4" thick spacers. 1'+ yes, 3/4" No. The 3/4" spacer makes up for the narrow rear when you put disc brakes on the front. I have yet to find 1 piece 3/4" spacers or adapters.

Ah, I missed that. You're right, those billet adapters start at 1" thick. Don't know what I was thinking.

big mike71 · 06-20-2010, 04:48 PM

I don't know if I want come out an inch. I'm going to have to do some measurements.

ERASER5 · 06-20-2010, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7T2

Ah, I missed that. You're right, those billet adapters start at 1" thick. Don't know what I was thinking.

Actually, they start at 1.3" which is quite a lot X2.

06-19-2010, 01:52 PM	#1
big mike71 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: independence mo Posts: 2,111	Wheel spacers and longer studs I want to lower my truck, But to do it I will need a 1/2" spacer on the rear. My question is in order to put in longer studs do you have to pull the axle? Thanks. __________________ I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was.

06-19-2010, 02:52 PM	#2
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs Mike, you shouldn't have too, but that will depend on how long the new studs actually are. I needed to have longer studs on the rear with my new wheels and I was able to remove the drum, knock out the old ones with a BFH, and then "draw" in the new longer studs with a socket, and a stack of washers. You might have to turn the axle to get the right spot to fit the new studs in but overall as long as they are not excessively longer, you should be ok. __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)

06-19-2010, 03:42 PM	#3
raycow Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Posts: 2,454	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs There is enough room to install the studs without pulling the shafts, but it's not the best idea to hammer them out. The hammer blows get transferred to the spider pin and ultimately to the differential bearings. A tool is made specifically for this purpose http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...auto_tool.html but it is hard to justify the cost for a one-time job. You might want to see if a tool rental outfit has one. Having said all this, I have hammered them myself and haven't destroyed any rear ends.....yet. Ray Last edited by raycow; 06-19-2010 at 03:45 PM.

06-19-2010, 05:07 PM	#4
big mike71 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: independence mo Posts: 2,111	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs Thanks __________________ I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was.

06-19-2010, 11:34 PM	#5
ERASER5 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Indiana Posts: 4,859	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs Yea! A new use for my ball joint/hub C-press! Woot! __________________ '70 GMC C1500 LWB Power disc brakes. WooHoo! Posi 6 Lug Dana 60

06-20-2010, 08:44 AM	#6
68_chop_top Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Granbury, TEXAS Posts: 250	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs The 3/4" wheel spacers I used came with studs and holes and nuts for the original studs. Their studs where in-between my studs. Just put the ring (spacer) on like your wheel and use their flat nuts to tighten spacer to the wheel hub. The spacer's studs where then used to mount my wheels using my lug nuts. Hope this makes sense. I ordered 5 on 5" to a 5 on 5" with 3/4" width. It was called a wheel adaptor. __________________ Mine is chopped, has a clutch, and a big block.

06-20-2010, 09:39 AM	#7
7T2 Active Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Marysville, OH Posts: 667	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs For the money that adapters cost it's almost worth it to avoid the work. The way you are describing, you would have to buy new studs and the spacers, then do all the work to swap them out. When you're done you have a setup that probably isn't as durable as your original. You can get a set of two billet aluminum spacers all over the net for $90 that will do exactly what you want to do, and they are engineered to give you the same durability as the stock setup. You can get them in the same bolt pattern, or you can get them as adapters to change the bolt pattern. http://adaptitusa.com/ __________________ 1957 GMC Ambulance 1962 Belair Wagon 1963 C80 Truck Cab FOR SALE 1969 Chevy C10 Short Bed 1972 Chevy C10 Long Bed SOLD 1996 C3500 Dually SOLD

06-20-2010, 04:48 PM	#11
big mike71 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: independence mo Posts: 2,111	Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs I don't know if I want come out an inch. I'm going to have to do some measurements. __________________ I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was.



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