some cam help if you please

[hotrod_991]

Ok I just had my first experience with over tightning a ricker arm and now that I have ground my lifter down and taken the black hard layer off my cam lope its time to start thinking about a new cam. side note:cam has less than 250 miles on it and already tore up not happy but you life and learn right.

Ok i have bandaided it with new set of lifters for now and there is still enough lobe that its not effecting the power or how it runs but i know that only last a few months so....

I have a Mutha thumper cam in it now cause I got wrapped around that nasty lope sound well now i would rather have max power from my cam and side effect of the lope. I am going to give you a run down of my motor combo and would like an idea of what cam to look at with in my budget from all you pros.

from top down:
Flo-teck allum head 2.02/1.60
Torker2 allum intake
steel sportsman roller tip rocker with poly locks
valve guides/screw in studs
.50 push rods
Rhodes hyd lifter: for help with vacuum
mutha thumper cam lsa 107, 489 lift.
9.8:1 SRP pistons on full float forged KB rods
stock crank turned 10/10
350 block bored .40 over
skip white 65000 billet distrib
summit long tube headers into 2.5 dual sticks into thrush 2 chambers
edelbrock 750 electric choke.

That is about it for the motor, im getting my built TH350 put in here soon and right now I have 3.08 gears and a 2500 stall

Is this enough info for some cam help? I cant afford to co full roller like i want right now so have to stay with hyd.

Any help is apreciated thanks.

[blackedoutharley]

http://www.compcams.com/v002/Company...amHelpNew.aspx

[midevil1]

You need some gears no matter what, but you need a cam the works with your 2500 stall. 220 to 230 duration at .050. get something with 112 to 114 lobe seperation. Great vaccum and useable rpm range for the street. Lift should be whatever range your heads flow the best at. Whether that is .500 or .600.

[hotrod_991]

yea i deff need gears those 3.08 are not doing it for me. And yea i have learned that hte thumper is fun to listen to but I am very unhappy with the performance of it. my heads are good at .520 lift. not too worried about vaccum i am going to get a vac pump. What is the lobe seperation about? i know i have like 107 why is that bad?

[cableguy0]

the 107 lobe seperation is whats killing your power and making all the noise. You want to be between 110-112 on a street engine. Typically 114 is used in situation where high vacuum is needed mainly for injected stuff. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the rhoades lifters. There will be no need for a vacuum pump with the cam range you will be looking at.

[hotrod_991]

thanks cableguy you havebeen a ton of help to me. I was thinking of the magnum comp cam it has a center lobe of 110 and duration of 236 at.050. Im assuming that will give me plenty of vacum and be alittle nicer on the street. I love my truck but I am extremely unhappy with the way if runs and i think that thumper has some to do with it. runs like a 2 stroke engine at anythinf under 2800rpm and not enjoyable to drive around in. and i will be going with the comp lifter that conme wiht the cam.

[cableguy0]

Thats not gonna make that much vacuum. I would go with the xtreme energy line from comp or the voodoo line from lunati. They are much more modern cam designs and will yield the absolute best power in there given range. You will end up around 10 inches of vacuum at idle with a 236@.050 cam. All you need is to get a vacuum canister and dont use the brake pedal as a foot rest. Basically if you have a vacuum can and only use the brakes when you actually need to everything will be fine. I would be looking at the xe274h from comp or the lunati voodoo 60103 or 60104. Use regular lifters and get a 3.73 gear in that thing.

[BigDan3131]

The questions I have would be, do you plan to just cruise? Street/strip, race or? How much does the truck weigh? You can go to almost anyone of the cam companies and get what you need with your specs plus the rear gears and first gear of your tranny. Along with the weight. If you have a few bucks more get rid of Torker 2, its old school tech and getting a new Performer RPM Air Gap would help.

[hotrod_991]

yea I do want a dual plane. This is a one step at a time proccess. I gave a lot of money to have the motor I wanted and ended up with the motor that someone else always wanted to build so now I am goint back and changing things to what i want and the intake is one of those thiungs. I want to enjoy the truck more than I can right now. It too much work to keep the carb cleared out and running smooth. Will see the strip some day when i stop tearing itself up and get broke in but mostly cruizing and some light to light playing. truck wieghs 6200 according to the tag on the door frame.

[midevil1]

Originally Posted by hotrod_991

yea I do want a dual plane. This is a one step at a time proccess. I gave a lot of money to have the motor I wanted and ended up with the motor that someone else always wanted to build so now I am goint back and changing things to what i want and the intake is one of those thiungs. I want to enjoy the truck more than I can right now. It too much work to keep the carb cleared out and running smooth. Will see the strip some day when i stop tearing itself up and get broke in but mostly cruizing and some light to light playing. truck wieghs 6200 according to the tag on the door frame.

your truck probably weighs closer to the 4500 to 5000 range. the tag in your door is GROSS vehicle weight. That cam is what is causing the clearing out issue's. It will keep your plugs wet and fouled at idle or anything under its rpm band.

Remember that duration causes your loping sound. Anything over 220 is going to lope. Dont get obsessed with too much duration. 224 to 228 would be great on the street. look for something in the 224 to 228 with 530 lift and 110 to 112 lobe seperation and you cant go wrong.

[hotrod_991]

what about the extreme energy 268H, duration of 224/230 and lift of 477/480 with lobe sep of 110. I cant seem to fint a 224 duration with a 510 lift. what is the lift going to do for me? that is more lift than my thumper. im using comp camquest 6 program tryn to find my new cam.

[blackedoutharley]

You will really do yourself a favor by clicking on the link and getting a recommendation from Comp.. Remember that they will probably be conservative on what grind they recommend for you. I went with the next bigger cam and it was perfect.

The 4X4 Extreme line from them may also be a good choice considering your gearing and such as this line is focused on building low end torque.

Based on what info you provided I would recommend this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-239-3/

RPM Range 1,300-5,600
Int Dur @ 050 inch Lift: 218
Exh Dur @ 050 inch Lift:226
Dur @ 050 inch Lift 218 int./226 exh.
Advertised Duration 262 int./270 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.462 int./0.480 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 111

As mentioned by others; a good two plane manifold is worth its weight in gold and if you can't splurge for the Air Gap the Performer RPM is a great manifold as well and you can sometimes find them used.

Also as mentioned... chuck the Rhodes lifters!

Don't forget that when you fire up the engine with the new cam you need to treat it like a new engine and break in the cam properly... this includes setting the valve lash correctly the first time and then leaving it alone.

Good luck.