Sanding inside of bed

[wakeboarddrumma]

I am going to be needing to do this sooner or later, what's a good way to do it? I don't have a sand blaster, and i can only get the tops of the slats with a belt sander. Heres a picture of what i'm working with

[LockDoc]

A wire cup on a 4 1/2" grinder should work good for that. (wear safety glasses)

LockDoc

[Rollie396]

A face shield would be a good idea actually.The cups aren't as bad as the wheels,but they will throw wires and they don't feel good stickin out of your nose or lip.Oh and wear jeans and mebbe covies as well to keep from getting dinged in some very bad places.....

[Sweet72]

That bed looks like it's barely broken-in! You should see mine. If you want to go down to bare metal, use paint stripper first to get all the paint off, and then some naval jelly and water or oxysolv with a scotch brite pad working in small sections till all rust is gone! Easier said than done.

[70GMCer]

What I did on mine was to just scrape away the loose rust and then put a coat of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. You can either spray it or brush it on. I brushed mine. After that I went and bought Dupla-Color bed liner kit, and put 2 coats on. Looks great and don't have to worry about the rust. You can also use POR-15 if you want.

steve

[highboy_04]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

A wire cup on a 4 1/2" grinder should work good for that. (wear safety glasses)

LockDoc

paint wont stick to buffed metal. and if you want to bed line it i suggest using herculiner. i've had good luck with it and it is really tough and pretty cheap. that duplicolor stuff is basically paint with sand in it.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by highboy_04

paint wont stick to buffed metal. and if you want to bed line it i suggest using herculiner. i've had good luck with it and it is really tough and pretty cheap. that duplicolor stuff is basically paint with sand in it.

The paint is still adhering to mine after three years.... Maybe because I used epoxy primer?? Dunno...

LockDoc

[roj2323]

pay a guy $50-75 and have it blasted. you can sit and drink while they do all the work.

you see there is this rule i live by it's weird but it totaly makes sence.

there are 3 things to concider when doing anything time money and quality. no matter which 2 you choose the 3rd will suffer. for the small amount of money it will cost you it's worth saving the 2 days of work to sand the bed down.

fast with quality will cost you money
cheap with quality will cost you time
fast and cheap will affect quality

[72CSTC5]

You could do like the guys said and unbolt the bedside and cut the small weld in the back near the floor, remove the tailgate and front box panel and just send the floor to be blasted front side and back and then metal wash and metal condition the metal followed by self etching primer and then a good 2k primer to fill in the small divots left from the rust, sand smooth and paint and then coat the underside with paint or undercoating and put the bed back together, orrrrrrrrr, 3M roloc strip disc strip the bed in all of the grooves and crannies with a die grinder and compressor. Much easier I think. Good luck

[roj2323]

i wouldn't even disassemble the bed... any good sand blasting guy will prep so the sides don't get blasted. i imagine though that if he's refinishing the bed floor that the rest of the inner bed is going to get refinished as well so it really doesn't matter as long as carefull attention is paid to the panel joints during primer prep.

[72CSTC5]

I just do not like it when the sandblasting send gets under all of the edges and either blows out when you paint or stays there to feed rust.

[cdowns]

if time isn't an issue and money is you can make an inexpensive sanding block out of a 2x4 and tack and glue a 1/4thick by 11/2 wide piece of trim molding to the 2x4 and wrap it with 100grit sandpaper to start and sand away// it shouldn't take more than a weekend it's crude but effective

[wakeboarddrumma]

Yeah, i'm doing the work myself, that's the way i did the cab. I sanded it all down, took about 6 hours strait, and then I began priming it.

I am hoping this won't take quite as long. But i don't care if it does. I should be doing it within the next month.

[Huck]

Pour about a garbage pail load of loose gravel about a 1/2 inch in diameter--let in slide and roll around back there for a few weeks. It will loosen any rust. then just sweep it out ----done! hehehehehe

[Shane]

Chemical stripper, some Saran Wrap, a few hours and a water hose and it's bare metal.

Brush the stipper on ... cover with Saran Wrap (or a garbage bag - this keeps the stripper from drying out before the paint lifts) ... let stand for 15-20 minutes ... remove Saran Wrap ... apply more stripper ... recover with Saran Wrap ... let stand for 15-20 minutes ... rinse with water hose.

Let dry and repeat until most traces of paint are gone or at the very least loose.

Hand sand with 80 or 100 grit paper the remaining small sections of stubborn paint.

Prime. Paint. Stand back, open beer and admire your hard work.

[timcos]

Fast Cheap or Perfect. Pick Two.

Tim

[Brad]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=181633
Somewhere in my project I did the same thing and used a wire cup then used the paint on bedliner crap. I have a tonneau cover but mine holds up well.

[gmc1971harwich]

im going to use the chemical stripper myself on my bed but where do i get it locally? theres no body shop supply places around me

[SRVBLUES64]

Head over to Home depot there a blue abrasive wheel in the tool section call the paint stripper I think, for 9 bucks it goes on you 4.5 grinder and it will strip the paint off in minutes buy 2 for the bed it will not heat up the metal it kind of looks like a sponge good luck