Drive shaft disaster! Need Help!

[LinemanL.U.47]

So here’s the deal. I’m cruising about 70 on I-10 in southern cali in my 1970 K-10 step side Chevy when without warning the front u-joint of the rear drive shaft explodes. The drive shaft still spinning with the rear end it flattens the exhaust and one billstein shock. It then bends into a corkscrew shape before tearing out of the rear yoke, taking much of the yoke with it. Unfortunately the truck behind me sustained front end and tire damage. I have spent much of the day looking for a new or used replacment. I haven’t had much luck. I have tried ebay, junk yards and classifieds. This is what I can tell you guys about the drive shaft. The 1970 4x4 step side used a one-piece shaft with a slip joint at the front. I may be wrong but I don’t think it had a cardan joint. I have many question that maybe someone hear can help me with.
Does anyone have, or know of a drive shaft for sale?
Will any year 67 to 72 short bed or step side 4x4 drive shaft work?
Would a 4x4 Blazer from the same year work?
Is there a company making new drive shafts for these trucks?
I have contacted a few shops about having one built. Their talking around 400.00 bucks!
It would be a big help if I had a picture of the front slip joint and u-joint configuration. If anyone has a short bed 4x4 Please if possible post me a picture. Thanks in advance for any and all help. Thanks Lance

[leddzepp]

Hi neighbor (I am in Riverside also). I am assuming that you went to Inland Empire Drivelines, and that is where you got the $400 price. I have a stock driveshaft from a 72 LWB truck, but it is two piece. If you want it, it's yours. You might be able to take it to a shop and have them modify it/cut it down for you to work. Other than that, I do not know of any other sourses for one.

[mstrav1973]

short bed stepside or fleet are the same thing in the 4x4's. A blazer would be to short. Can you call a local drive-line shop? I bet they could help you out. did you lock in the hubs and drive it home in 4x? I ve had this happen and it ripped the tailshaft off the transfer case on a np 203.

yours is a np 205 t-case?

Matt

[raycow]

I'm too cheap to spend 400 bux for a driveshaft, so here is what I would do:

Check the transfer case yoke for damage and get a new (used) pinion yoke and t/c yoke if necessary. Install both yokes on their respective ends. With the rear end at ride height, measure the u-joint center distance between the t/c and rear end. Also measure the yokes for U-joint cup diameter and span.

With those dimensions and a tape measure, head for your friendly local salvage yard. Look for ANY driveshaft with a slip joint and the right size U-joints. Ideally, you want a shaft the right length with the slip joint extended half way. If you can't find one like that, buy a shaft that is too long. Take it to your driveshaft shop and get it shortened to the length you need. This means two cuts and one weld, which should be a $50 job if the shop is honest. You should not need to get it balanced. Just note the location of any balance weights that are on the shaft when you bring it in and make sure they are still there when you leave.

Ray

[LinemanL.U.47]

Thanks for the offer leddzepp, but like raycow said I gonna start with a shaft from a 4x4. I have found a shaft off of a 75 4x4. It will need to be shortened. mstrav1973, yes it is the 205 and yes she drove home in 4xBroke! T-case looks fine, pinion yoke is junk.

[mstrav1973]

I think thats an easy fix, swap the yoke (junkyard or site member should have one), cut the driveline to length and have it balanced with new spicer u-joints (no crappy u-joints) and you will be good to go. whats your insurance coverage for the other guy and your repair?


looks like we have the same shocks, 4 wheel parts was the cheapest for the bilsteins. My truck (2) years ago looked kind of like yours.

Matt

[LinemanL.U.47]

mstrav,Funny you mention insurance. It seems every state has different laws on road debris. In california there a so many factors to determine fault. Loosing part of your load is different than a mechanical part, tire tread has all it own laws. Hitting road debris it matters if the debris it stationary or moving. It also matters where and how it damaged your vehicle. It also matters where on the road the debris is and how long it has been there, and has it been reported to the CHP or cal trans. Liability can fall with either parties insurance or cal trans. In my case I was not cited or fined and I will not file a claim for my truck. I gave the other guy my insurance info. I have no idea if he will get paid and by who.

[292farmer]

did any damage happen to the rear diff internally? i cant imagine the force exerted on the gears inside when that drive shaft went loose especially the pinion gear. just thought i'd ask id hate to fix a driveshaft then find gears are junk on first drive.

[LinemanL.U.47]

Originally Posted by 292farmer

did any damage happen to the rear diff internally? i cant imagine the force exerted on the gears inside when that drive shaft went loose especially the pinion gear. just thought i'd ask id hate to fix a driveshaft then find gears are junk on first drive.

I thought about that. Its possible that it broke a few teeth off the ring or pinion. It might be worth the time to pull the cover and have a look!

[leddzepp]

I also have a TH350 pinion yoke that you are welcome to as well.

[vectorit]

Take your busted up drive line to this guy:

Drive Shaft Specialist
1117 W Foothill Blvd
Azusa, CA 91702
626-334-2418


He will make a new one for you, and his prices are reasonable.
Just ignore his personality... (He's a crotchety old guy).

Bring the old one, so he can verify yoke sizes. Or if it's still on I-10, forget it but try to bring the remaining yoke.

[Lee H]

Inland Drive Line does good work but have found them to be expensive. You might try JE Reel in Pomona. I"ve heard they are reasonable.....