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06-01-2003, 11:28 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 4,296
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I Went to fill anti-freeze on my RB 327 and most of it ended up on the floor!
I went to fill my rebuilt 327 with fluids today. I filled the oil in preparation to prime it. That went OK. I then started filling the anti-freeze mix. I got about a gallon of mix in and heard the dreaded sound of fluid hitting the floor. Upon further examination I found anti-freeze pouring out of the P.S. of the water pump where it bolts to the block. After suppressing several swear words because my 8 year old boy was watching this whole thing, it dawned on me that I'd have to take apart the whole front of the engine to get the water pump off. I dug into it and found that I used the wrong gasket on the P.S. water pump to block connection. I should have used a gasket with two bolt holes at the bottom rather than a gasket with only one bolt hole. Fluid was pouring out from the water pump casting from that 3rd empty bolt hole. A trip to the parts store and a couple of hours later I got the water pump and everything back on again. I then continued to fill the anti freeze only to find that the lower heater core connection was mucked up. I must have broken a solder joint when I removed the old hose or reconnected the new hose. Now I have to remove my heater core! (Any Tips?)
IT'S ALWAYS SOMETHING! I feel like I'll never get that white monster in my garage running! Just had to vent!
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Unrestored 68 C-10 CST. Original 327. 4-Speed CH465. 50k or so miles. TREASURER, Drum Brake Club. |
06-01-2003, 11:54 PM | #2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Wow...I feel your pain.
If you have a non A/C truck, then just drop the p/s inner fender well and you can get toe the heater core easier. If you feel the need to fire it up, you can by-pass the heater all together by running a loop of heater hose from the water pump to the intake...or intake to rad...or where ever your hose conections are. |
06-02-2003, 12:02 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Grapevine, Tx.
Posts: 2,142
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toms68cst,
Sounds as if you got my bad luck. I guess that means that I can get back to work on my truck now. My heater core was on an A/C truck. The hardest part was the hidden screw on the heater plenum that you have to remove the inner fender to get to. You don't have to completely remove the inner fender but it needs to drop several inches at the back. Also remove the passenger hood hinge and remember that the hoses are different sizes. There is a seal kit that you might as well replace while you are in there. Man I thought that bad luck was here for good. Have fun
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John Hutchison Grapevine,Texas 68 1/2 t swb 68 Mustang 69 Jaguar 71 1/2 t swb 88 Supra CompTs6m 93 Escort GT 2005 Corolla XRS |
06-02-2003, 12:24 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Oh the joy of workin on old vehicles!!! I've learned that when putting together rebuilt/new engine combinations its better to fill with water do the initial run in check for leaks then flush tthe system out then fill with antifreeze
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
06-02-2003, 08:01 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 4,296
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Thanks for the tips. The heater hoses are aready bypassed so that shouldn't keep me from firing it up soon. The hood is still off so that will make getting to the heater core easier.
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Unrestored 68 C-10 CST. Original 327. 4-Speed CH465. 50k or so miles. TREASURER, Drum Brake Club. |
06-02-2003, 08:04 AM | #6 |
KEEP ON TRUCKING
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: martinsville va
Posts: 2,563
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damn sounds like my luck good luck
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72 cheyenne 2wd lwb 71 k20 sons bassett va |
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