Question about power steering conversion

[chevy_mike]

Okay, so I read the pages upon pages about doing a power steering conversion. Most all of them deal with using an adapter bracket (Rez, CaptianFab, CPP, etc.) but none really answered the question I have.

The problem I am seeing with most all of these adapter is that it spaces the PS box off the frame and hence puts the pitman arm in the wrong location (i.e. not parallel with the idler arm and off centering the center link). This causes many to have the issue where they can turn sharper one way than the other and some bump steer issues.

The question is, is there any reason the frame cannot be modified so it is more like the '68-72 frames with the dimple inset to allow the PS box clearance? I would really like to keep the geometry the factory built in, like the later truck frames.

My plan would be to slightly "c notch" the frame vertically and then adding some plates on the inside of the frame to add a little more strength where the box mounts.

Any input?

[Bugeyev8]

I just did mine and I hit the steering stops both to the R and L, my friend took a frame section from a 70s truck and grafted it to his 67, works fine

[raycow]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

The question is, is there any reason the frame cannot be modified so it is more like the '68-72 frames with the dimple inset to allow the PS box clearance? I would really like to keep the geometry the factory built in, like the later truck frames.

My plan would be to slightly "c notch" the frame vertically and then adding some plates on the inside of the frame to add a little more strength where the box mounts.

Any input?

Somebody on here did the exact mod you are talking about. He cut a piece out of the frame to clear the bulge on the box and welded a brace over the hole on the other side. Hopefully it will turn up on a search.

Ray

[Twiztid_66c10]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335926

here is a link to the build i was saving so i could do the same thing grafted on a 80's pick up ps section starts on page 2 post #49

[Captainfab]

The adapter plates are about the best solution for the average truck builder, since not everyone has the equipment let alone the skill to correctly modify a frame. For those that do, notching the frame to accept the power steering box is definitely an option. For me, even though I have the equipment and the skill to modify the frame, it is simpler to just add the plate and stitch weld it to the frame. This adds a little bit of reinforcement to a stressful area of the frame as well. The difference in turning radius can typically be compensated for by adjusting the tierods more to one side.

[chevy_mike]

Thanks for the info guys.

CaptianFab, no doubt the adapter plates are easiest for the majority of people. Since I do have the fab equipment and skills, notching the frame is not a big deal. I do have to disagree with your assestment that just adjusting your tie rods will correct things. It might allow you to get the steering to turn from stop to stop but the center link will be offset and the pivot point will not be in the correct location in relation to the suspension movement. This will create bump steer. It might not be a lot but it will still be there and with my background in steering/suspension/brakes, knowing its not right when I can make it right, just bothers me.

I wanted to double check that doing the notch method didn't create an unforeseen problem. Thanks again for the advice and making some nice parts.

[Captainfab]

I don't belive I said that adjusting the tierods would correct anything except the turning radius.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The difference in turning radius can typically be compensated for by adjusting the tierods more to one side.

I do agree that that there would be a slight amount of bump steer. Like I said the adapter plates are for the average guy that likely wouldn't notice the little bit of bump steer.

For the above average guy like yourself, notching the frame sounds like the best way to convert to power steering.