05-31-2003, 07:32 AM | #1 |
At Last. . .
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 179
|
Rotors & Pads
Hey all,
I've got a kinda stupid question, but how hard is it to replace the front brake pads & rotors (disk setup) and rear pads (drum) on my truck? Is this something I could easily do in an afternoon as I figure? I know - sounds pathetic, but in all my garage tinkering over the years, I've just never had the occasion / opportunity to do brakes, I've just taken 'em in or had someone I know do 'em. Tips / suggestions? Thanks!
__________________
----------------------------------------------- 1988 GMC Sierra "K" 2500 4x4 5.7L TBI Daily Driver / Project / Obsession / Money Pit ------------------------------------------------ Current Tasks: Front-End Rebuild Brakes & Rotors A/C System (Clardy) ------------------------------------------------ It never ends. . . |
05-31-2003, 02:14 PM | #2 |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,672
|
Yeah, it's all pretty easy to do if you've got any mechanical ability at all. I was a little nervous when I switched over to disks, but found that they're easier to work on. Drums are a little more difficult, but do one side at a time so you can compare with the other side when you get lost. Use a manual too, if you've never done the drums.
__________________
1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
06-02-2003, 10:51 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Posts: 75
|
Simple trick, after you've pull the caliper off the rotor, using a large "C" clamp, compress the piston back down into the caliper. You can use the old pad and the back of the caliper as your compression points. The piston will have moved forward in the caliper as the old pad has worn, and it will be almost impossible to put the caliper back on the rotor with the new pads without first seating the piston back down in the caliper. Once the piston is seated, and the new pads installed, they will easily fit over the rotor. While you've got the calipers off, its always a good idea to check and repack your front bearings. Pull off the dusk cap, pull the cottor pin, undo the bolt holding the rotor on the spindle and pull the spindle off. If the bearing are dry or rusty, etc. It's probably a good time to replace your bearings. A lot of time you get a new inner race with new bearings, but if your old race is in good shape, you really don't have to replace it. (plus is a pain to remove). Just repack the new (or old) bearings and replace everything back on the spindle. As for the rears; can't offer any better advice that what Brad did. As for time; the first side takes a little while, but the second will be done is less than a hour. Good luck.
__________________
69 CST BB 69 Mach 1 72 C-10 69 Acadian 68 SWB Chevy |
06-02-2003, 10:55 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Posts: 75
|
Forgot to mention; once you've got the old rotors off. Get them turned. Depending upon the wear on the rotors, there will be high spots and they need to be flattened. Many parts supply stores will turn your rotors for a few bucks. If there is not enough material left on the old rotors to turn; replace them. Not very expensive.
__________________
69 CST BB 69 Mach 1 72 C-10 69 Acadian 68 SWB Chevy |
Bookmarks |
|
|