NOT the usual van tilt column questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sixnine · 06-01-2003, 06:16 PM

I scored a van tilt column last week and went about installing it a couple of days ago. I referenced the link everyone seems to recommend when doing this swap (http://www.net1.net/~sas/). I was able to remove the old column and modify the steering arm okay. But I'm having two problems. Number One is the shifter. I mocked up the trans linkage and shifted through the gears to check for any binds. It shifted smoothly from Park down to Low. But when I tried to shift back up to Park, it was binding some where. I "forced" it and got it into Park. Now I can't feel the "indents" in the shifter. Before I took the column home (I pulled it myself) I shifted it and it shifted smoothly and I could feel the "indents" when I moved the shifter from position to position. Now it just feels loose and sloppy. Am I just crazy or is there really an assembly in the column that allows the shifter to "lock in" to the position? Man, I hope I don't have to take the column completely apart. But if some of you know how to fix this (if it's even a real problem) I'd appreciate it. The second problem is, with all the mounting locations secured to check the position of the steering wheel, it seems that the column is not parallel to the centerline of the truck. Or a better way to word it is the rightmost side of the steering wheel is about a 1/2" closer to the dash than the leftmost side. I've repositioned it and repositioned it and when I tighten everything up, it still ends up crooked. I've checked the plane of the steering wheel and it is straight. Any suggestions?

JimKshortstep4x4 · 06-01-2003, 07:30 PM

On your shift indent problem from what I have seen the wear occurs mostly on your shifter handle where it contacts the plate.

Pull your shifter handle and look at the end. It should have minimal wear at the end. (It should be straight). If it is notched at the end, I would suggest buying a new shifter handle and installing it. I don't know if you can get the notched plate, but they are not usually the problem.

I don't know if all vendors carry the shifters, but Christian's does.

I have no clue as to your misalignment problem. Are you clamping into place with the truck clamping parts?

Jim

sixnine · 06-01-2003, 08:06 PM

Thanks for the reply. I'll pull the shifter and look at it this evening. As for the clamping parts, I'm using all of the original ones. I think my problem is the reverse light switch. With the column installed properly, the switch sets directly underneath the brake pedal arm that goes into the master cylinder. When I tighten the clamps and brackets up, the switch hits this arm and pushes the column to the left. I think if I move the brake arm to the other side of the bedal lever, it will give me enough clearance to straighten everything up.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 06-02-2003, 07:10 AM

On the van tilts that we use, we cut a slot in the column at the stock location and mount the neutral safety switch there. A tab is welded onto the shift tube ,made out of sheet metal, for actuating the switch. If you want more details on doing that I can post a pic.

Jim

smokekiki · 06-02-2003, 03:04 PM

I would like to see a pic.My suburban has a van tilt.The guy i bought it from had it put in.It has a switch from a 77 van in it.The switch gets hit by the brake if the shift indicater is in the proper position.If the indicater is turned towards the door it works but dosen't look right.Looks like the slot should be further down the coloum.The stock wires are there,and has jumpers going to switch.

Baradium · 06-02-2003, 03:27 PM

On my '70, the notches look to be on the bottom (engine compartment) end, where the part moves. Maybe it doesn't spring load back down now/ is jammed above the notches?

Southpa · 06-02-2003, 04:29 PM

OK, this might sound kinda nuts but it worked for me. I too, installed a van tilt column. My brake pedal arm was also hitting the neutral safety switch. I tend to look at things this way...don't screw around, if it doesn't fit you make it fit. I hacksawed about 1/2" off the end of the switch, enough to clear the brake pedal arm. This was about 3 years ago and its still working fine,

.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 06-02-2003, 08:22 PM

We make the van tilt neutral safety switch slots the same dimensions as on the column. It is located 8" from the lower end
and centered in line with the old switch slot. We weld a 1/4x1/4
angle to the shifter tube which is 1/2" long as in the pic. Once the
angle is in place we put the neutral safety switch in neutral and the shifter in neautral. The small slot on the neutral safety switch fits over the verticle leg of the angle which orients the switch. We then drill the two screw holes so that they are located in the middle of the adjustment slots on the neutral safety switch, just in case some adjustment is needed.

The nice part of doing it this way, the factory wires plug in and there is no interference with the mounting of the column.

Jim

smokekiki · 06-03-2003, 09:55 AM

thanks Jim,that looks like an easy way to go. I'm doing mine this week,thanks Mike

JimKshortstep4x4 · 06-03-2003, 11:32 AM

You are welcome and it is easy!

Jim

06-01-2003, 06:16 PM	#1
sixnine Longtime Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Over Yonder (DFW) Posts: 171	NOT the usual van tilt column questions I scored a van tilt column last week and went about installing it a couple of days ago. I referenced the link everyone seems to recommend when doing this swap (http://www.net1.net/~sas/). I was able to remove the old column and modify the steering arm okay. But I'm having two problems. Number One is the shifter. I mocked up the trans linkage and shifted through the gears to check for any binds. It shifted smoothly from Park down to Low. But when I tried to shift back up to Park, it was binding some where. I "forced" it and got it into Park. Now I can't feel the "indents" in the shifter. Before I took the column home (I pulled it myself) I shifted it and it shifted smoothly and I could feel the "indents" when I moved the shifter from position to position. Now it just feels loose and sloppy. Am I just crazy or is there really an assembly in the column that allows the shifter to "lock in" to the position? Man, I hope I don't have to take the column completely apart. But if some of you know how to fix this (if it's even a real problem) I'd appreciate it. The second problem is, with all the mounting locations secured to check the position of the steering wheel, it seems that the column is not parallel to the centerline of the truck. Or a better way to word it is the rightmost side of the steering wheel is about a 1/2" closer to the dash than the leftmost side. I've repositioned it and repositioned it and when I tighten everything up, it still ends up crooked. I've checked the plane of the steering wheel and it is straight. Any suggestions? __________________ Rokcrln - *"I'm a major car addict so trying to go as low buck as possible is like asking a coke head to use flower to save money."* 1972 C10 Short Step -http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=261405

06-01-2003, 08:06 PM	#3
sixnine Longtime Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Over Yonder (DFW) Posts: 171	Thanks for the reply. I'll pull the shifter and look at it this evening. As for the clamping parts, I'm using all of the original ones. I think my problem is the reverse light switch. With the column installed properly, the switch sets directly underneath the brake pedal arm that goes into the master cylinder. When I tighten the clamps and brackets up, the switch hits this arm and pushes the column to the left. I think if I move the brake arm to the other side of the bedal lever, it will give me enough clearance to straighten everything up. __________________ Rokcrln - *"I'm a major car addict so trying to go as low buck as possible is like asking a coke head to use flower to save money."* 1972 C10 Short Step -http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=261405

06-02-2003, 03:04 PM	#5
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,473	I would like to see a pic.My suburban has a van tilt.The guy i bought it from had it put in.It has a switch from a 77 van in it.The switch gets hit by the brake if the shift indicater is in the proper position.If the indicater is turned towards the door it works but dosen't look right.Looks like the slot should be further down the coloum.The stock wires are there,and has jumpers going to switch. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

06-02-2003, 04:29 PM	#7
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,409	OK, this might sound kinda nuts but it worked for me. I too, installed a van tilt column. My brake pedal arm was also hitting the neutral safety switch. I tend to look at things this way...don't screw around, if it doesn't fit you make it fit. I hacksawed about 1/2" off the end of the switch, enough to clear the brake pedal arm. This was about 3 years ago and its still working fine, . __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first.

06-02-2003, 08:22 PM	#8
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	We make the van tilt neutral safety switch slots the same dimensions as on the column. It is located 8" from the lower end and centered in line with the old switch slot. We weld a 1/4x1/4 angle to the shifter tube which is 1/2" long as in the pic. Once the angle is in place we put the neutral safety switch in neutral and the shifter in neautral. The small slot on the neutral safety switch fits over the verticle leg of the angle which orients the switch. We then drill the two screw holes so that they are located in the middle of the adjustment slots on the neutral safety switch, just in case some adjustment is needed. The nice part of doing it this way, the factory wires plug in and there is no interference with the mounting of the column. Jim Attached Images

06-01-2003, 07:30 PM	#2
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	On your shift indent problem from what I have seen the wear occurs mostly on your shifter handle where it contacts the plate. Pull your shifter handle and look at the end. It should have minimal wear at the end. (It should be straight). If it is notched at the end, I would suggest buying a new shifter handle and installing it. I don't know if you can get the notched plate, but they are not usually the problem. I don't know if all vendors carry the shifters, but Christian's does. I have no clue as to your misalignment problem. Are you clamping into place with the truck clamping parts? Jim

06-02-2003, 07:10 AM	#4
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	On the van tilts that we use, we cut a slot in the column at the stock location and mount the neutral safety switch there. A tab is welded onto the shift tube ,made out of sheet metal, for actuating the switch. If you want more details on doing that I can post a pic. Jim

06-02-2003, 03:27 PM	#6
Baradium Binder Rep Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salcha, AK Posts: 1,506	On my '70, the notches look to be on the bottom (engine compartment) end, where the part moves. Maybe it doesn't spring load back down now/ is jammed above the notches?

06-03-2003, 09:55 AM	#9
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,473	thanks Jim,that looks like an easy way to go. I'm doing mine this week,thanks Mike __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

06-03-2003, 11:32 AM	#10
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	You are welcome and it is easy! Jim



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