Manual Brakes pedal hardness

[1968CHEVYC10]

How hard of a pedal should I have? I've got manual drum brakes in my '68, the pedal goes I'd say about 75% percent down before I get any decent stopping ability, I can make the brakes lockup but I'm thinkin the pedal should be a little harder.

[swierker]

My 70 still has manual brakes and drums up front. I have a very good pedal, it begins stopping with very little pressure and I don't think I ever need more than 1/2 of the pedal travel to stop. I've also never locked the brakes in the 3 months I've had it.

It seems like your pedal has too much travel. I'll let others chime in on how to remedy your problem as I'm not sure, I haven't messed with the brakes... yet.

[1968CHEVYC10]

Thanks swierker, I figured it had too much travel, but now I now what I'm shootin for, this is my first vehicle that's had manual brakes so i wasn't sure what to expect. I guess I need to keep checking for leaks and keep bleeding them. If I had a bad M/C I would be able to see fluid dripping down inside the firewall right?

[68gmsee]

There are a few factors involved in braking force and pedal distance required to stop.

First is the brake shoe distance to the drum surface on the front and back.
I adjust mine until they barely start to rub. I some cases I adjust until it won't turn anymore and then back it off until they barely rub on the drum.

Brake shoe material. Cheaper brands tend to not have as much stopping power.

Brake shoes/drum contamination or glazed over.

Air in the brake lines.

Master cylinder piston seals leaking allowing fluid to pass through them.

Possibility of soft or swollen brake rubber hoses. The swelling is on the inside so you can't see it.

If all of the above are good, then pedal for the most part should be around 20% to 30% of full pedal. That's about what mine is right after I adjust brake shoes.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by 1968CHEVYC10

......... If I had a bad M/C I would be able to see fluid dripping down inside the firewall right?

Not necessarily. Leak may be internal.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-su...ng-drum-05.cfm

[1968CHEVYC10]

Thanks guys!

[Beachcomber]

Check your fluid level and the rubber gasket for rust in the cover area.
Mine was on the floor and the front portion of the master was empty.

I seen some gunk in the bottom too.

Topped it up and she's good.

I think my seal on the cover is shot, I couldn't find any lines leaking or wet drums so it must have been not topped up when a line was changed. ( by the previous owner)

[Beachcomber]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Not necessarily. Leak may be internal.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-su...ng-drum-05.cfm

ahhhhh......

[1968CHEVYC10]

Originally Posted by Beachcomber

Check your fluid level and the rubber gasket for rust in the cover area.
Mine was on the floor and the front portion of the master was empty.

I seen some gunk in the bottom too.

Topped it up and she's good.

I think my seal on the cover is shot, I couldn't find any lines leaking or wet drums so it must have been not topped up when a line was changed. ( by the previous owner)

I know for sure the reservoirs are topped off, I've been bleeding them.

I'm kinda at a loss now, I've been tryin to get these to work for awhile now and I can't seem to make any progress. I bled the fronts again today and now the pedal feels worse, basically no pedal at all, I filled up the reservoir about 4-5 times and I know plenty of air came out, but this ones got me stumped. I've checked and double checked for leaks and don't see anything.

[GRX]

Agreed. You should not have that much travel.

Sounds like you may still have air in the system somewhere. Only takes a small bubble.

Do yourself a BIG favor and invest in a set of speed bleeders. Makes bleeding the system a breeze! Well worth the expense.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-639590/