86 C-10 305 with new Edelbrock 1406

[benoit454]

LOl might be but ours runs great with an edelbrock I don't see it getting much better then it is.

[nbpro]

i dont think its the Edelbrock look at all the vacum lines need's to do some thing with that lol vacuum leaks then prolly just needs a tune up and timming adjustment as well

[C-10 simplex]

Originally Posted by nbpro

This may be true, but if you look, he Just got this truck . Also, just the fact of the cost involved of a Quadrajet, which has already been mentioned.

1) ebgwd may have just gotten the truck but the previous owner suffered from the "gotta switch carbs and put an open element air cleaner on an otherwise stock setup because it will make me go faster" syndrome.

2) If you're going to go thru the trouble of swapping carbs (for dubious performance benefits) why not rebuild the q-jet for like $25?


P.S. we see in the original post that the carb isn't running right; Edlebrock/carter clones more user friendly than a q-jet?

[Oilbrnr]

Originally Posted by C-10 simplex

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If you're going to go thru the trouble of swapping carbs (for dubious performance benefits) why not rebuild the q-jet for like $25?

Last time I got a gasket/pump kit from NAPA it was more like $40+. BUT the bigger issue with any older carb, is the condition of the primary throttle shafts and bearings. To address this properly, it will cost more than $25, not to mention evaluating all other aspects of a 20+ year old carb, warped top for one.

That being said, I do *generally* agree that mother GM knew what was best esp. for a stocker. And, the QJet is an awesome carb, which is what I would not swap out in most any instance. (Plus, I prefer the way the secondaries function on QJets, ie variable CFMs within their respective range)

Interestingly enough, I picked up a 1980 K20 about six months ago, and the PO had put a 1406 on it. I was a bit apprehensive, esp. after it failed emissions the first time around, but after going through the Edlebrock owners manual, and getting the jet/rod/spring kit, I very easily passed the test.

[nbpro]

we also see in the original post that hes new to fixin trucks and eager to learn the edelbrock is user friendly than a q-jet yes in my opinion for a beginner q-jet are good Carbs but for beginner not as ez as far as tuning
gasket/pump kit from azone is like $45 here

[Oilbrnr]

And OP, get the manual listed in post #4 of this thread. The jet/spring/rod kit is about $50 and you will probably need it. Checker/Kragen/Summit sells them.

[nbpro]

that 77 Cheyenne K5 looks sweet i would love to have one of them

[MalibuSSwagon]

Well I just posted a thread thinking no one has this exact same issue, and yet someone does! Except my 1406 is used, not new. The previous owner thought it was a good idea to put a Holley DP on a stock 305! lol he had NASCAR fever tho.

[C-10 simplex]

Exactly my point.

[nbpro]

I don't think anyone has said that putting an Edelbrock or a Holley on a stock engine is the best idea in the world. What most of us try to do, is give the gentleman some tips on what he could do to set his carburetor and maybe even straighten his vaccuum lines out. When I first started redoing my truck, there was no carb. The truck had been stripped down and the parts put on another truck. I got an Edelbrock for free. First thing I did was go look up the info on how to tune it and set it up correctly. This was on a stock 305. No headers, stock intake. Stock. It ran fine. I think in most cases what people do, they think bigger is better. The gentleman that gave me the carb had several of these, and asked me what size engine it was. I told him, and he gave me the carb that was compatible for my engine. So in some cases, it does work out, if you do your homework.

[C-10 simplex]

Ok, one more comment and i will stop/or start a new thread because i've sort of taken it off topic as well as offering no help concerning the original question.

IF someone puts a weber or multiple webers on a small block, then i won't complain.

[Oilbrnr]

Originally Posted by C-10 simplex

IF someone puts a weber or multiple webers on a small block, then i won't complain.

But these new Edlebrocks DO say Weber on them!!

Biggest problem IMHO, guys get these because they don't understand carbs, let alone doing a proper rebuild, so it seems like an easy no brain-er. Get a new carb that is factory set, plop in on some V8 and everything will be good. T'iant so. And unless you pony up the extra $50 for the tuning kit, you're probably never going to get it to work as it should.

On the plus side, they are easy to open up swap tuning parts out. (setting the float level looks to be a bit of a PITA however)

OP just go through the owners manual and follow the troubleshooting/tuning steps. Should point you down the path to get it running better, again assuming the rest of the engine is OK, including all vac lines.

[Oilbrnr]

Just re-read the initial post, OP have you put new plugs/wires/rotor/cap in yet and set your timing? I'd start there and eliminated the ignition system from the equation. THEN you can start tuning that carb.

Pay close attention to the condidtion of the plugs. If some are fouled make a note, or label and keep them for reference. You could have an oil control problem too... (fouled plug under load = miss)

[C-10 simplex]

Ok ONE more comment and then i'll stop----really.

i noticed that reman q-jets are available at summitt for $269, no core. It seems that if someone did not want to rebuild theirs (which is understandable if you've never done it) that this would be an easier cheaper way than getting a holley/carter clone.

i understand that when you go holley or carterclone it's new vs. if you go q-jet it will most likely be used or remaned. But reman is just as good if not better than new.

BTW i think when edelbrock was selling the q-jet (as RPM) it also said weber on it because i think weber was the one actually making it for them.

[nbpro]

Weber is called Magneti Marelli. They have a plant down south where they make the Edelbrock carbs post #15 http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/
spark control module would need a look see at two ???

[ebgwd]

The guy I got the C-10 from (Paw-in-law) said the mechanic that works on the truck told him the old carb was shot and he needed a new one. Paw-in-law does not have the old carb. He also was told that it would cost $200 to fix the problem with the gas gauge (cost me $9 for a used gauge). You guys helped with that one too.

Found a spark plug off the distributor, 7 out of 8 ain't bad. LOL
Found the original oil fill cap between the alternator and engine. I went back to the old one and saved the new shiny one.

Was hoping I would find some tools, too.
No such luck, yet.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

[ebgwd]

Originally Posted by Oilbrnr

Just re-read the initial post, OP have you put new plugs/wires/rotor/cap in yet and set your timing? I'd start there and eliminated the ignition system from the equation. THEN you can start tuning that carb.

Pay close attention to the condition of the plugs. If some are fouled make a note, or label and keep them for reference. You could have an oil control problem too... (fouled plug under load = miss)

Thanks, will do. It had a "tune-up" a few months before I got it.
One of the guys I work around suggested a better distributor for this particular truck. Along with the wires/plugs, do you guys have a suggestion for the distributor.
My friend mentioned getting one that only had power hookup.
In other words, not the plug for the "module" that is hid on the firewall or somewhere inside the truck.

Have any of you ever heard of such a mod on a C-10 or 305?
Does that mean I have to go back to points or is there something else I'm missing?
Thanks

[nbpro]

get a gm distributor
and read this mod http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/176666/

[benoit454]

just bypass that big 4 prong plugin and run it that way, then it'll be a gm dist. and won't have the esc and all that junk. It works fine got it done that way on the 305 that came from dad's 84 that's now in the 85 mcss.