Steering question on a 68 K-10.....

[rocketwheels]

...this truck was a manual steer, now has a powersteering pump and box. It is super sensitive, too much to be comfortable with at hwy speed. It also doesn't try to "return" when you stop turning into a turn.

Is this something wrong with the pairing of the box and pump, or maybe the steering stabilizer is worn? This straight axle Chevy set up is new to me, my first old 4x4.

I've considered even swapping back to a manual steer box, but the power does come in handy backing the camper and boat !

[72lb4x4]

You seem to have a block lift on the front, which I've read is dangerous. Once that's fixed check the alignment.

[rocketwheels]

yes, there are 3" blocks, will be removing those very soon, may have to get new bolts before I start the task.

It just seems too "quick", no resistance what-so-ever when turning. As I said, it is awesome at a dead standstill, but un-nerving at 45mph.

Isn't that what the Stabilizer is for, to slow and steady the exagerated movements produced by the larger wheel/tire combo?

[Davetopay]

1. LOSE THE BLOCKS!!!! That's a good way to get someone hurt.

2. If the blocks are tapered, like many rear block applications, it will screw up your caster setting and can lead to instability issues at speed. It also changes the return to center effect.

[66_k10_manny]

I just installed power steering and a box on my 66. Mine seems to have the same issue of the wheel not automatically turning back exiting out of a turn. I have yet to do an alignment also.

[Davetopay]

Ummmmm.....where is the rest of the engine crossmember?

[Permafrost]

Originally Posted by Davetopay

1. LOSE THE BLOCKS!!!! That's a good way to get someone hurt.

2. If the blocks are tapered, like many rear block applications, it will screw up your caster setting and can lead to instability issues at speed. It also changes the return to center effect.

I think Davetopay nailed it here. Caster plays an important role in "steering wheel returnability"

Also someone may have messed with the adjustment screw on the box, that can have a similar effect. -?

[Permafrost]

Originally Posted by Davetopay

Ummmmm.....where is the rest of the engine crossmember?

I thought the same thing till I just stuck my head under my '68....
mine is exactly the same..?

[Davetopay]

Originally Posted by Permafrost

I thought the same thing till I just stuck my head under my '68....
mine is exactly the same..?

Hmmm...odd. I was thinking maybe someone took a sawzall to it so they could drop the pan easily.

[66_k10_manny]

A few questions. . . What's a caster? And where does the vent hose from the differential go to? Does it harm anything if I don't connect it?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Permafrost]

Caster is the forward or aft tilt of the steering axis when viewed from the side.

Here's a link: http://www.aligncraft.com/terms/terms.html#FrontCaster


The vent hose should teminate above the "high-water" mark
Ok, on the front crossmember will work

[LONGHAIR]

The blocks are most likely the problem. They are definately a safety issue from the begining, but the taper is causing the high-speed stability problem.
It is probably installed to tip the pinion up, which helps the driveline angle, but it also tips the ball-joints foreward. This results in "negative caster", which can be very twitchy.

I would look into remounting that steering stabilizer too. It is a quite an angle to the tie-rod, which reduces it's effectiveness. The factory location has the stationary end mounted to the axle housing, so that the stabilizer is between the housing and the tie-rod. That way it moves in the same path as the tie-rod.

[rocketwheels]

....OK....I removed the blocks and the steering is WAY BETTER !! No longer twitchy or so fast in reaction to steering input. The stabilizer is at a normal position now.

The power assist is still very good and the wheel does try to come back to center when you release the wheel during a turn....not as good as most set ups or a manual box, but I can live with it.

I do need to check the adjustment on the left to right play as there is quite a bit, but I know the more you cinch down on the adjustment the less "free" the wheel will be when returning to center. Looking into that.

Thanks for all the input....you did freak me out with the "Wheres your Crossmember" comment !! I asssumed that was how all straight axle vehicles where made, dont' know nuthin about these early Chevys!! I'll learn !! Steve

[rocketwheels]

Hey just wondered, what would be a better year substitute for front leafs, to get away from these 2ply originals, these ride like a dumptruck !!

Not looking for anything other than stock height, or at least not having to swap out other components. Just trying to make this a good all around everyday truck that is nearable to ride in. As it is, it is a chore to drive.

[LONGHAIR]

The "left to right" movement, could be in the tie-rods or the drag link. Check each joint for "play", then check the frame rail behind the steering box for cracks. That is a very common thing with these trucks (4x4s). They tend to crack around the bolt holes. Don't panic if you find cracks, it can be fixed.

[66_k10_manny]

I looked into the issue regarding the leaf springs as well. The 3 things that made my truck a chore to drive as well were the lack of power steering, brake stopping power, and the suspension. Got rid of the first 2. Contacted a local suspension shop about the leaf springs and they said thats pretty much how that suspension came from the factory. (feels like the axles were welded directly to the frame). Those leafs were designed with a negative arch. You might want to look into shops that do re-arching if your suspension is just worn. I decided to live with the way mine is, might just invest in some softer tires on my next set.