Question about drip rail material - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

crm318 · 10-06-2010, 02:38 PM

Im thinking about repainting the white part of my cab and I was wondering if that material that lines the drip rail is necessary anymore (it looks to be a little dried up anyway). I plan to chisel and a wire brush to remove it.

beautimus · 10-06-2010, 03:01 PM

Its Absolutely nessasary. that seam is more complex than it looks, and the old sealer is keeping water out of the inside of the roof, and out of your cab.
If its in bad shape, yes it is a good idea to cut it all out, just as you descibe, but you also need to put some back in its place.
Tony

Beatcoaster · 10-07-2010, 01:36 AM

Wire brush all the old out, lay down some epoxy primer and flow on the 3m 8307 - do not use anything else! - sand if needed, prime if you like, and spray on your white. That is the only way to do it right...

McClinton527 · 10-07-2010, 01:54 AM

Love that 3m product! There's comparable sandable flowable seam sealers as well but definately good advice, I used a product aloes plyo grip made by valvoline and it worked great but 3m is hard to beat
Posted via Mobile Device

Papaloo · 10-07-2010, 11:20 AM

I see that 3M 8307 comes in 200ml cartridges. How many cartridges does it take to seal the drip rails?

McClinton527 · 10-07-2010, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papaloo

I see that 3M 8307 comes in 200ml cartridges. How many cartridges does it take to seal the drip rails?

If you are just looking to barely put a bead down in the seam you can probably get away with ony needing one. If you really want to make the drip rail cherry and build it up all the way around and smooth it all out you will need two.

SweetandLong68 · 10-07-2010, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McClinton527

If you are just looking to barely put a bead down in the seam you can probably get away with ony needing one. If you really want to make the drip rail cherry and build it up all the way around and smooth it all out you will need two.

Anyone have any pics of this process? I am going to have to do this as well.

thanks
CHRIS

Notrodder · 10-07-2010, 01:20 PM

Cataliyzed seam sealer is not the "only way to do it right". In fact, in a recent thread on this forum it was stated that that type of seam sealer does not stand the test of time.

Use a quality urethane that you can push out of a caulk gun and it will be easier to use and will last the life of the new paint.

Beatcoaster · 10-07-2010, 01:31 PM

I don't have any pics online but have some at home I could upload. One tube did my entire drip rail perfectly. My friend just did his and one tube was enough for him as well. We both bought two and ended up taking one back. If you use two tubes I would expect the drip rail to be nearly full and not be much a channel anymore for water to follow...be sure to rent/borrow the 3m gun that is made for these as well - it was different than other epoxy guns I had used which didn't work with the tubes...

**WIDESIDE72** · 10-08-2010, 12:17 AM

good to know...

10-06-2010, 02:38 PM	#1
crm318 Alright Alright Alright Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Midland, Texas Posts: 1,672	Question about drip rail material Im thinking about repainting the white part of my cab and I was wondering if that material that lines the drip rail is necessary anymore (it looks to be a little dried up anyway). I plan to chisel and a wire brush to remove it. __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Chevrolet red and white 357ci, Vortec heads, GM Performance high rise intake, Comp 268H .454/.454 218/218 110 LSA Quadrajet carb, Flowtech headers, 2.25 40 series HEI, Curve kit, TH 350, 3.07 gears 275/60/15s on 15x8 rallies

10-06-2010, 03:01 PM	#2
beautimus Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: woodstock, alabama, usa Posts: 938	Re: Question about drip rail material Its Absolutely nessasary. that seam is more complex than it looks, and the old sealer is keeping water out of the inside of the roof, and out of your cab. If its in bad shape, yes it is a good idea to cut it all out, just as you descibe, but you also need to put some back in its place. Tony __________________ i survived cancer and kidney stones, but my kids are killing me.

10-07-2010, 01:36 AM	#3
Beatcoaster 69 Fleetside Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Lake Stevens, WA Posts: 333	Re: Question about drip rail material Wire brush all the old out, lay down some epoxy primer and flow on the 3m 8307 - do not use anything else! - sand if needed, prime if you like, and spray on your white. That is the only way to do it right... __________________ 1969 Chevy C10 Custom Camper - "Frame On" Restoration Blueprint 383 w/ 405hp@5200rpm & 441ft-lbs@4200rpm / Jegs TH350 w/2300 Stall / Drivelines NW 2-Piece Shaft / stock 3.08's / CPP 4" Drop Rear, 3.5" Modular Drop Front

10-07-2010, 01:54 AM	#4
McClinton527 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Albany, Oregon Posts: 66	Re: Question about drip rail material Love that 3m product! There's comparable sandable flowable seam sealers as well but definately good advice, I used a product aloes plyo grip made by valvoline and it worked great but 3m is hard to beat Posted via Mobile Device

10-07-2010, 11:20 AM	#5
Papaloo Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Southeast PA Posts: 57	Re: Question about drip rail material I see that 3M 8307 comes in 200ml cartridges. How many cartridges does it take to seal the drip rails? __________________ Dave 1971 Chevy K10 1972 Chevy C10

10-07-2010, 01:20 PM	#8
Notrodder Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lompoc, CA Posts: 104	Re: Question about drip rail material Cataliyzed seam sealer is not the "only way to do it right". In fact, in a recent thread on this forum it was stated that that type of seam sealer does not stand the test of time. Use a quality urethane that you can push out of a caulk gun and it will be easier to use and will last the life of the new paint.

10-07-2010, 01:31 PM	#9
Beatcoaster 69 Fleetside Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Lake Stevens, WA Posts: 333	Re: Question about drip rail material I don't have any pics online but have some at home I could upload. One tube did my entire drip rail perfectly. My friend just did his and one tube was enough for him as well. We both bought two and ended up taking one back. If you use two tubes I would expect the drip rail to be nearly full and not be much a channel anymore for water to follow...be sure to rent/borrow the 3m gun that is made for these as well - it was different than other epoxy guns I had used which didn't work with the tubes... __________________ 1969 Chevy C10 Custom Camper - "Frame On" Restoration Blueprint 383 w/ 405hp@5200rpm & 441ft-lbs@4200rpm / Jegs TH350 w/2300 Stall / Drivelines NW 2-Piece Shaft / stock 3.08's / CPP 4" Drop Rear, 3.5" Modular Drop Front

10-08-2010, 12:17 AM	#10
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,500	Re: Question about drip rail material good to know...



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