another engine swapping/drive shaft question

[dubie]

If I place my 350 in the proper location rather than the Inline 6 position like I am planning, what complications will I run into. I know i will need a new driveshaft on the front.
Does anyone know of a bolt up donor for this?
Would there be any other problems I may not be aware of?
Also, this is a 3 in the tree, aould there be any linkage length problems in doing this?

[CPNE]

I always believe it's easier and less maintenance hassles in the long run to do a swap as the factory built it, especially in this case. If you put it in the V8 position, you only have 3 issues:

1. Getting the V8 clutch linkage
2. Lengthening your driveshaft
3. Moving bell housing support forward (frame is pre-drilled for this)

If you go the other route, you only resolve the driveshaft and support positioning problem and you still have these issues (more hassle IMO):

1. Jury rigging or fabricating clutch linkages
2. Exhaust modification (if going oe style exhaust)
3. Cooling problems as fan won't sit inside shroud properly.

If your truck is a 69-72 LWB and has OE 3 speed then a front driveshaft from a LWB auto truck will work as physical length of the th350/th400 and the 3 speed is the same. I think even the slip yolk is the same as the th350. If it's a 67/68 tranny, using an auto front driveshaft won't work because it's dimensions are different.

As for the shift levers, I'm guessing there is enough adjustment on the compression nut end to compensate for the difference between v8 and I6 positions.

[dubie]

Wow, thanks for all the great info !! Mine is a factory 72, 3 speed so I will only need to move the cross member forward and get a driveshaft from an automatic!! GREAT!!

Oh and the clutch linkage thing. Do I need all of it including the clutch fork?

[CPNE]

On the linkage you will need:

1. Rod from pedal to zbar
2. zbar
3. Engine ball stud and bracket ( the correct ball stud will be on a bracket that bolts to the bosses in the engine block)
4. The zbar frame support bracket
5. Rod from Zbar to fork (you can fab this out of threaded rod)

The clutch fork is the same. When purchasing these parts make sure it's a factory V8 (VIN starts with CE). A 4 speed or 3 speed clutch linkage will work, 1/2 or 3/4 ton 2wd.

Editors note: I HAVE NOT done this swap but have parted many vehicles and these are my educated assumptions and recollections on this. I would get a second opinion before diving in. However, it is my opinion that unless circumstances dictate otherwise, it is always best to follow what the engineers intended, if for no other reason than easy of maintenance/parts locating down the road. There is nothing worse than inheriting someone's back yard engineering.

[crazy longhorn]

Due to height issues, as you move that bell crossmember foward....I beleive you will need to replace it with a V8 crossmember. you can however remove the crossmember entirely, & use the auto crossmember under the 3 spd stick trans(wont work on the 4 spd truck trans). I dont beleive the clutch fork itself differs from 6 to 8......just the linkage. crazyL as a side note on "backyard engineering"......I have seen some of that work better /fit better than the factory stuff......but it depends on who did the job, & how much patience they had! 69, rowin 6 of em .......on backyard linkage

[ZOOMY]

The "proper" (aka factory) position for a 4x4 V-8 is in the rear postion. The proper position for a 2x4 V-8 is in the forward position. All that being said, I always put the V-8's in my 2x4's in the rear position for more weight on the rear wheels.

[Bernie]

I put a V8 in the 6 position in a 2wd truck with a TH350. The only real problem was the distributor. I used a Mallory with points rather than an HEI. Also used an electric fan.

[Longhorn Man]

Also, if you install a small block in the rear mounts, the fan shoud deal can be solved by getting a small blcok 4X4 shoud, or a long style pump and the small block 2 wheel drive shroud.

[dubie]

Just to revisit an old topic... It looks like I have decided to do this swap properly and put the 350 in the forward factory V8 location. Do I now need to get a set of V8 mounts? What is the difference?

[CPNE]

Crazy, you are right. I should have qualified "backyard engineering" with the adjective "cobbled". However, even the best engineered fix, can trip you up when seeking replacement parts etc.

Anyway TTT for dubie's question.

[crazy longhorn]

CPNE, that is a very good point! Replacement parts can be a PITA on nonstock swaps on the mounts, you will need the V8 sb stands to move foward....the mounts themselves(rubber pcs) are the same for I 6 & sb vs. Good luck, crazyL

[dubie]

Thanks again for the helpful info guys

[Billy G]

The MORE I read on this site....the MORE I LEARN!!!!! Everytime I come to this site...and I mean EVERYTIME!!!...I learn something NEW!!
Yall are GREAT!!!.....even for the ones that are just in the 'thinkin' bout it' stage. I just hope that someday I can relay the info taught here, and it be HALF as much help to that party as yall have, are, and WILL BE to me!!!

Handshakes to ya all! (tippin a longneck in toast)

Billy G

*ps....Im not 'hollerin' with the CAPS...just joyfully EXPRESSING*