What the heck is going on.

[acl]

I know you have heard this before. In a attempt to put p/s on my 68 I have used 3 different boxes and 6 different pumps, 3 from o'reillys and 3 from napa. I still have a whine from the pump. in attempts tp bleed the system we filled the pump, hand turned it counterclockwise, jack it up and went lock to lock many many times slowly, started the engine and lock to lock. let it rest 15 minutes to get the bubbles out. I have done all these things each time. The hoses are hooked in the right place (I think they are diff size fittings, but stranger thing have happened) I can not get this figured out. All 3 boxes have been used and thought to be good. I can't afford a new one right now. All the responses on an earlier thread say it should bolt in and go no probs. I am not the smartest guy, but I have a friend helping that has done 2 swaps and no issues and he is stumped. If anyone has a box they just took off and it positively working I'm interested. Any thoughts. I'm passed the pi$$ed stage now. If I knew a brand new box would fix it I would buy one but do not want to if it is not the prob. HELP Gary

[LockDoc]

Gary,

I have put 3 or 4 of them on and never had a problem after I got them bled.. If memory serves me correctly you are not supposed to go from lock to lock when bleeding the air out. You are supposed to stop turning before it bottoms out and turn it the other way. I'm not saying this will make a difference on yours but it won't cost anything to try it....

[Edit] OK, I found my notes.

Here is the process I use. Fill power steering reservoir. Jack up vehicle and with engine NOT RUNNING turn steering wheel lock to lock 7 or 8 times. Start engine and turn steering wheel NEAR lock to NEAR lock 7 or 8 times. If you turn it lock to lock with the engine running it will cause the fluid to foam. Let set for 5 to 10 minutes for air dispersal. Lower the vehicle and repeat turning the steering wheel NEAR lock to NEAR lock 7 or 8 times. Repeat until air is removed. If the belt is slipping at all it will cause the pump to make noise when the wheels are turned. This includes a belt that does not have enough contact around the power steering pump pulley. A power steering hose that is touching any other component (engine, frame, Etc,) can also cause noise in the pump.

Just some of my observations…

LockDoc

[oldblue1968chevy]

Huh, I put new lines on and didnt bleed the system, just added fluid till dipstick showed it was full cold

what dipstick! lol

[acl]

thanks, Leon I will try turning side to side some more. I plan On driving it this way to see if it will work out. Has that worked for anyone? After turning and waiting and turning somemore for about an hour the fluid was still foamy. How long should that go on? All I keep hearing is bolt on, fill and drive. I am lost. HELP. Gary

[JET4x4]

If the oil is still foamy then its probably still got air in it. I had the same problem with a Ford minivan that I put a new rack and pump in, I couldn't get it to stop wining. After giving up and driving it for a few days like that it finally quieted down. My .02

[acl]

Thanks Jet, It gives me a little hope. Gary

[acl]

did more lock to lock still a whine. Drove it quite a bit last night and drives great and quiet when going straight but a turn slightly either direction and the whining begins again. Do not have radio, can't turn up volume. Gary

[Lee H]

Not sure what you did for your conversion so......specifically, what components (box, pump, pitman arm, drag link, etc) are you using and what years are the from? If the pump and box are good you have some other non power steering component in the system causing binding. If "all" of the steering components are for a power steering application and they are compatible (same year range) then you may have answered the question in your initial post, 6 new pumps and 3 questionable boxes. Hard to believe all 6 pumps are are bad. Before you spend anymore money let's confirm you have all the correct components.

[acl]

Thanks Lee, good question. The box im pretty sure came off a 70-72 truck (bought from our own teeitup) the brackets bolt right up exactly so I assume they are correct. the pumps I order for a 68 truck, i assume they are correct. the pitmam arm was on the p/s box. Do not know anything about drag link. I might have missed something but I have read and been told that all I need is pump/brackets and p/s box to convert non p/s to p/s on same year truck. Am i missing something. I have had no body respond with any where near the issues i am having. And I have someone helping that has done a coulple of these before. Thanks for any help. It almost steers now too easy if thats possible. JUst whines like HECK. Gary

[C20-67_N_MO]

Subscribed and watching this thread.

Great info here.

[acl]

Had new opinions from front end alignment guy. Asked if belt was too tight or if pump brackects were tweaked? thought belt might be off just enough to make whine. looked good I thought but goin to check it out shortly. Any thoughts? Gary

[71 super]

Gary, Use method that leon gave you, but let the truck st for a while then crank jack up again and slowly turn from lock to lock. I just completed this swap a couple of weeks ago on my 68 with parts from Randy and while they are used parts if he told you they were right then they are. It does not matter on the drag link as I did not swap mine out or the have I ever swapped out any of the others I have changed over. Try cracking the line coming from the box- return line and let the box free bleed for a short period of time then try lock to lock. The box may have moisture in it from sitting and will take longer to bleed. Another possibility is a) the frame is weak and flexing causing alignment to change with the pump/pulley - had that happen once, or b) the brackets are not tight and flexing at the block or on the pump c) The 68 set of brackets are different than the 69-70 set and the 71-72 set (68 are a pain in the butt to install) and you could have alignment issues.