Mating transmission to clutch - Would like helpful tips

[CPNE]

I've never had much luck aligning a flywheel/cluch to a manual transmission with the transmission still in the truck. I'd like some tips or tricks anybody else has used in a similar situation. He's the background.

1. Engine is 402BB to 4 speed top loader.
2. Clutch disk has been aligned with a clutch alignment tool.
3. front clip is off and tranny has been unbolted from xmember and suported with a jack.
4. The engine is in correct position (set correctly on engine mount towers).
5. Transmission is in neutral and all bell housing to engine bolt holes line up.

Problem is there is still approximately a 1 inch gap all the way around between bell housing and engine (tranny has slid back this amount because engine is on mounts correctly). We can't seem to wrestle it on any further because of no leverage (truck is on ground).

Questions:

1. Is it safe to assume the trannys shaft splines are lined up with clutch and flywheel with both pieces this close together and lining up?

2. Would it be wise to pull the 2 pieces together using the bell housing bolts to force them together (as leverage)?

3. Any other suggestions? I'm not keen on R&Ring tranny as it means jacking up cab to get it to slide in place when bolted to engine (been ther done that). Also its so close after 2.5 hours of effort to get it this close, I hate to start over, but I'm not keen on breaking anything either.

Thanks

[chaptr2]

Don't use the bolts to bring the transmission to the bell housing. It could damage the ears of the transmission. In your case I wouldn't recommend using bolts to bring it all the way in.

If I understand this right, you still have the trans mounted to the bell housing and the clutch and pressure plate is bolted up to the flywheel? I am also assuming you have about 1 inch or less of gap that you can't close in?

If this is the case here is the trick on getting the transmission all the way in. Have someone up top push in the clutch in while you are trying to push in the tranny. I will relieve what pressure you are fighting and suck in the tranny all the way in.

This is a tip I read in Hot Rod magazine 5 or so years ago and it has worked for me every time. Hope this helps…

[CPNE]

The bell housing and tranny are mated together. My gap is between bell housing and rear of engine block. My idea was to use the bellhousing to block mounting bolts to pull these parts together. The assumption here is that since I'm so close and everything lines up and I just don't have leveage to "grunt" it into place, that forcing it together by this method won't damage anything.

The linkage is not in and the transmission is not bolted to transmission x-member. It is being supported by a jack right now.

I read your suggestion as being used when trying to bring transmission and bellhousing together (bellhousing already being bolted to block).

Thanks anyway as my original post was left open to interpretation.

[tom hand]

1 Inch gap means you are not lined up with the pilot bushing. If you use the bolts to pull it up you are sure to break something. Bolting the bellhouseing to the block and then putting the trans in is the best method. The only clutch alinement tool that works worth a crap is a input shaft out of a transmission. Good Luck

[crazy longhorn]

I slpit a stick truck, & reassembled it just as you have mentioned......it wasnt fun, but the engine tilter helped. I agree with the other guys, the clutch is probably off center just a tad. You might try a couple long bolts, with the heads cut off(screwed into the bottom 2 holes on the block) to pilot the bell with the eng. If you can get a couple bolts started to hold the trans in place, you might try what chapt2 suggested,put a pull on the clutch fork, & try to wiggle the eng trans together. Carefull, its really easy to bend the center hub on the clutch(chatter,chatter). Good luck,crazyL

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Jeff,

Here is a couple of other tricks that I have used. Use some long bolts to help keep the housing in alignment with the engine, but don't tighten. Put the transmission in gear and use the yoke to turn the transmission. If you can't turn the transmission, use the flywheel to turn the engine over as you push the engine.
Of course, being careful is critical. Usually what happens is that the engine and transmission housing are not parallel and rotating the engine or transmission helps the input shaft to line up with the pilot bearing. Which is probably what is happening as pointed out.

Good luck,

Jim

[jay6891]

I also agree that the pilot bushing is the problem. Just a thought, did you put any grease in the bushing? If so you could have to much and it is hydralic (sp) it out. Hope you get it, they can be a real pain sometimes.

[Mike C]

Long bolts as alignment guides is a good idea. Sounds like the angle is a bit off. Try an engine load leveler on the hoist and/or a floor jack on the transmission.

[Gordo]

Jeff, if I remember right, the bottom of the bellhousing has an opening that exposes the flywheel and clutch. Without forcing the pieces together at this point you could rotate the flywheel and loosen all the bolts holding the pressure plate until the clutch disc is moveable, once you have mated the engine to bell together simply retighten the bolts. I agree with every one else about not being lined up with the pilot bushing, using longer bolts for alignment and do not draw the units together with the bolts until you have little or no gap between units.

[CPNE]

Thanks for the replies. This is a brand new engine rebuild. It has not been run or even have oil in it. Will it harm anything to turn the flywheel and loosen the clutch bolts like Gordo suggested? I'm not sure I can get enough leverage to press the clutch fork to engage the clutch and free it that way.

[Gordo]

Just back off the bolts evenly as not to distort pressure plate.