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06-13-2003, 10:37 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 4,296
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How do I get air out of Power Steering System?
I've got one little headache to take care of before I can drive my truck.
I had the PS hoses apart from the pump while I had my engine out. I've got everything back together but I can't get it to work correctly. I've refilled the fluid and tried to work the steering wheel back and forth several times with the engine running. It just makes loud groaning/hissing noises and only boosts a little bit once and a while turning in one direction. The fluid turns all throthy and usually overflows the PS pump. It's the usual PS steering gear found on 69 and later trucks not the 67-68 booster style of PS. Are there any tricks? I've done this a couple of times in the past and I've never had any problems working the air out. Thanks, Tom
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Unrestored 68 C-10 CST. Original 327. 4-Speed CH465. 50k or so miles. TREASURER, Drum Brake Club. |
06-13-2003, 11:32 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 104
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Depending on the system you can crack a fitting at the last point to bleed the air out. It will take two people to do. One at the wheel and another to bleed just like brakes.
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06-13-2003, 11:38 PM | #3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 7,020
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put the front end on stands. Puts less stress on the fluid.
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06-14-2003, 12:33 AM | #4 |
Grubbin'
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 293
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I agree with racedvl put the front on stands so the tires aren't touching the ground and turn the wheel back and forth. And be careful not to crank it too hard when you get to the bumpstops!!!!
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project rust attack 1969 Chevrolet LWB w/ 307. I got power steering now woohooooo!!!!!!! |
06-14-2003, 08:36 AM | #5 |
English Chevy Owner
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France
Posts: 1,848
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I followed the advice given to me by Wes and some other people as I recently replaced my P/S pump and lines and it worked great.
1: Jack the front end up on stands so the wheels are of the ground 2: Start the engine 3: Slowly turn the wheel from lock to lock and back to centre 4: Turn engine off and leave alone for at least an hour for the bubbles to work their way out 5: Repeat steps topping up fluid as neccesary between until no more bubbles appear. Took me three cycles of the above and it all works perfectly. The longer you leave it between, the better, also make sure the fluid you are using has an anti-foaming agent in it.
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
06-14-2003, 09:53 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 15
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A little trick I've used many times, & usually works;
Jack up both wheels. With the engine off & reservior filled, grab one of the tires and turn the wheels lock to lock. Repeat several times, if the system is really airbound it may make a mess so be ready with a catch pan. Good Luck, H.
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'72 Longbed 2WD Mostly used to hide under from the wife & kids. (But coming along nicely) Southampton, PA '87 Chev 1-Ton 4X4 '52 Ford F1 '97 Harley " No Falls... No Balls ! " |
06-14-2003, 10:29 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 4,296
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Thanks all. I'll give it a try tomorrow. (We're celebrating Father's Day today!)
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Unrestored 68 C-10 CST. Original 327. 4-Speed CH465. 50k or so miles. TREASURER, Drum Brake Club. |
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