window motor won't work and window stuck down help

[jklonowski]

my window motor won't work and the window won't go up. how do i get the window up so i can change the motor

[tucsonjwt]

Are you sure it is the motor and not the switch? You might be able to bypass the switch, if that is the problem.
I don't know how to move that window up, unless you can reach in and free it from the track.
I'll bet Randy will know the way out if you can get his attention.
Good luck.

[48cj2a]

I was thinking the same thing when wanting to get the regulators and motors at a recent pull but the windows were up.

Remove the two nuts and the two bolts that hold the regulator assembly to the door, and push the studs out of the holes in the door. You should be able to pull up on the window to get the rollors out of the regulator channel with some patience and effort.

Pull the window out of the door and set it a safe place. Then turn the regulator so you can get to the motor bolts.

[RandyP]

If it's the motor you can generally "help" the window up while applying power, and it'll raise up. If it's the regulator it should be almost free floating inside with just gravity as your enemy. If it's the switch you can do as mentioned and apply power (they make a tool for this actually) on the other side of the switch.

You can also loosen the bolts as mentioned and make it see things your way, but it is a royal PITA, but doable.

Another trick is beating on the motor or door shell while applying power via the switch, sometimes it'll have enough left in it for one more roll up/down. We get lucky a lot on cars with the window stuck down that way, don't even have to remove the trim panel. Just beat on the door/trim panel and wiggle the switch. I'd rather be lucky than good any day.

[tucsonjwt]

Not your current problem, but since you obviously have an electrical issue - I went through switches, motors, harnesses, and switch connectors trying to fix a bad power window. Just some odd things to look for when you get to the repair point:
1) Check the wiring on the connector at the end of the harness attached to the switch. These wire come out at a sharp 90 degree angle - mine had a wire weakened, and finally broke off, right at the bend. It acted like a bad switch.
2) I installed a new Delco motor which had a loose connector attached to the motor where it connects to the harness connector - acted like intermittent bad switch, but was really a bad motor from the factory, so give the motor end where it connects to the harness a wiggle to make sure it is tight before installing.
I have a nice selection of switches from all of the replacing of power window and power door lock switches which were never the problem - I just kept thinking I bought bad switches.
If you can get the window up, reach in and down - at the bottom of the door is the motor - find the end and gently pull off the connector, then pull the harness out of the door, then put a simple 12V continuity tester in the connector, then work the switch. If the tester lights up, then the problem is with the motor, if the tester does not light up, then the problem is further back - switch, connector at switch, connector at end of harness, very unlikely the wire itself, unless the door was in a wreck.
I suspect that a lot of motors and switches are replaced when the problem is really something else. When these trucks get old, at least here in the AZ heat, all of the connectors and plastic switch housings get brittle and don't hold the electrical contacts very tight - resulting in phantom problems that are hard to detect.

[tucsonjwt]

I don't know how familiar you are with these power windows, but MAKE SURE that you do not remove the motor from the regulator without securing the motor to the regulator first (like with a small bolt and nut through the regulator and motor bracket, or put the whole thing in a bench vise.) If you don't secure that motor before taking out the bolts the regulator spring will uncoil and cause injury/damage. There is a guide here and elsewhere if you search for it.