Brake lines not gettin the juice.....

[my67c20]

First is everything plumbed correctly? From the photo it appears you have the front bowl plumbed to the rear output of the prop valve and the rear to the front output. It would also appear that the front bowl is the larger and should be plumbed to the front brakes.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=184148

I looked thru your build thread (nice work) and it was hard to see everything around the prop valve and master cylinder. Some pictures would be nice.

Second do you have a long enough push rod in the master cylinder? Sometimes over looked.

Understand how those vacuum pumps work. Basically you create a vacumn in a bottle and when you open the bleeder it sucks stuff out, Only after doing this for hours will you effectively pull all the air out if the air is near the bleeder. A pressure bleeder is by far the best tool for forcing fluid thru the lines to create a steady stream.

Third adjust the rears until they really drag good. Remember spinning the wheel by hand and feeling a drag is different than a 3500lb vehicles idea of dragging.

How much of this bleeding has been done with the vehicle running and pulling a vacumn?

I suspect by your statement earlier on that the peddle fades leaves me to believe your master cylinder has some bad seals, or a plumbing problem

Did you buy the master chromed or did someone do it out for you?

Did you release the check valve after you bled and before you tested the system?

If you have no leaks you are 50% on your way.

[Slick67]

Originally Posted by my67c20

First is everything plumbed correctly? From the photo it appears you have the front bowl plumbed to the rear output of the prop valve and the rear to the front output. It would also appear that the front bowl is the larger and should be plumbed to the front brakes.

I did have it plumbed incorrectly, but fixed that.

I looked thru your build thread (nice work) and it was hard to see everything around the prop valve and master cylinder. Some pictures would be nice.

Thanks! I' shoot some pics tomorrow of the new bracket and lines ran.

Second do you have a long enough push rod in the master cylinder? Sometimes over looked.

Yep, it's made for our trucks.

Understand how those vacuum pumps work. Basically you create a vacumn in a bottle and when you open the bleeder it sucks stuff out, Only after doing this for hours will you effectively pull all the air out if the air is near the bleeder. A pressure bleeder is by far the best tool for forcing fluid thru the lines to create a steady stream.

I am using a MytiVac and it does get fluid, but not enough. After redoing the prop valve today the issues may dissapear.

Third adjust the rears until they really drag good. Remember spinning the wheel by hand and feeling a drag is different than a 3500lb vehicles idea of dragging.

I adjusted them so that it is difficult to get the drum on and takes alot of grunting to move them when turning the 22 inch wheels.

How much of this bleeding has been done with the vehicle running and pulling a vacumn?

One round, no exhaust yet so can't run it too long.

I suspect by your statement earlier on that the peddle fades leaves me to believe your master cylinder has some bad seals, or a plumbing problem

Did you buy the master chromed or did someone do it out for you?

It is new from Tuff Stuff, rather expensive item so I don't think it's that.

Did you release the check valve after you bled and before you tested the system?

Yes.

If you have no leaks you are 50% on your way.

I did find one crack in a flare yesterday so that could be a major reason.

[Slick67]

Problem Solved..........bad master cylinder. Thanks everyone for you're input, and hopefully this will help others!!!

Proof Positive!!!!!!!

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