Does Bezel screw directly into Cluster?

[87chevy.com]

If you were to remove the Bezel trim, does it screw directly into the cluster housing? I finaly got modivation to kick start a 2yr old project that I stopped. Before I go any futher, I would need to know if you removed the 2, if the cluster could then be screwed to the bezel.

thanks
clint

[ont_guy_38]

yes some of the screws do

[RuralRoute C-30]

Trying to recall my time with that project but I think there is one screw, maybe 2 that attaches directly to the cluster. One I know for sure does on the top. (see pic)


The remaining screws go into the dash itself to secure the bezel to the cluster.

A phillips screwdriver and about 4 minutes will tell you what you need to know for sure. (I got really good at disassemble and reassemble with that cluster)

Someone correct me if I am wrong! It's been a few yesterdays.

Good Luck!

Mark

[87chevy.com]

I would take mine apart, but I have an aftermarket radio installed and its a pain in the butt to remove. Its necessary to remove the radio, then the bezel... Well if only 1 screw goes into the cluster I should be able to eye ball it. Well I was going to reference the thread, but I never started one on this board. I went over to fullsizechevy and all of the pictures are no longer there... stuip putfile.... anyway, Hopefully sooner than later I will have these gauges up on running.
I figured out a way to mount the gauges, but Im unsure if I want to hack up that black piece that goes between the clear lense and the cluster. LMC doesnt sell it and I checked one other vendor and nope. Although I have this spare and the one installed in the truck, dont know if i want to hack it up. I might spend a minute or 2 and whip up 3d of what im looking to do...
clint

[87chevy.com]

spent a few minutes in autocad and heres the idea on how to mount the gauges I will use.



The idea is to install the gauge in the middle inbetween the 2 (hince the spacer). The one with multiple holes will be to space the gauges according to the factory bezel, and the factory lights that illuminate the face. The one with 2 holes is the trim that will give the gauge a finished look and prevent any light from inside the cluster to peek though. As it is now, its 99.9% perfect for the facotry black plastic trim piece (between the lense and cluster) but there is 2 slightly flat spots on the face of the gauge that would allow light to pass through. This would solve that problem + allow me to glue the "carrier" to the black trim piece, and once situated, be screwed through the clear lense. To get it spot on, I figured eyeball it in place, drill the center of the 3 holes in the clear lense a size larger so it has play, use a washer and screw so it can be adjusted. Once adjusted and either good enough or perfect, drill the other 2 holes so it has no play. then it would be rigid and secured. It took a while to figure all of this out... originally the plan was to mount it to the back of the cluster.. but this idea is the ticket. The other 4 smaller gauges will be mounted the same way.
Tools I am going to need are the hole saws so the holes are nice and circular

[JHT67]

Is this piece going to be made by hand or machine?

[87chevy.com]

I wish I had a friend that had a CNC machine or the service of waterjeting plastic was affordable. It will be cut out by hand and hole saws if I can find the correct size of saw. I imagined the back would be 3/16... plenty beefy and thicker than necessary for a bulbs heat (to prevent warping) and the front piece out of 3/8 due to the needle protruding from the face.
clint

[JHT67]

Post pics of your fabrication and how your install works out. I think it's cool your making it yourself, and by hand. I want to be able to do stuff like that, makes it even more yours. Good luck

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

spent a few minutes in autocad and heres the idea on how to mount the gauges I will use.



The idea is to install the gauge in the middle inbetween the 2 (hince the spacer). The one with multiple holes will be to space the gauges according to the factory bezel, and the factory lights that illuminate the face. The one with 2 holes is the trim that will give the gauge a finished look and prevent any light from inside the cluster to peek though. As it is now, its 99.9% perfect for the facotry black plastic trim piece (between the lense and cluster) but there is 2 slightly flat spots on the face of the gauge that would allow light to pass through. This would solve that problem + allow me to glue the "carrier" to the black trim piece, and once situated, be screwed through the clear lense. To get it spot on, I figured eyeball it in place, drill the center of the 3 holes in the clear lense a size larger so it has play, use a washer and screw so it can be adjusted. Once adjusted and either good enough or perfect, drill the other 2 holes so it has no play. then it would be rigid and secured. It took a while to figure all of this out... originally the plan was to mount it to the back of the cluster.. but this idea is the ticket. The other 4 smaller gauges will be mounted the same way.
Tools I am going to need are the hole saws so the holes are nice and circular

That's a very nice design - I would consider breaking into three pieces to make it easily manufacturable - 1) front Bezel; 2) Spacer; 3)back spacer plate. 1 and 3 can be done on water jet very quickly and at low cost from SS sheet metal (say 0.090) while 2 can be CNC cut from 0.250 Aluminum 6062 block. Strategically placed tapped (say 6-32) holes - well you get the jest of it.

//RF

[78 Chevyrado]

2 top center screws go into the cluster, and the one on the lower left of the pic.

[87chevy.com]

Originally Posted by rfmaster

That's a very nice design - I would consider breaking into three pieces to make it easily manufacturable - 1) front Bezel; 2) Spacer; 3)back spacer plate. 1 and 3 can be done on water jet very quickly and at low cost from SS sheet metal (say 0.090) while 2 can be CNC cut from 0.250 Aluminum 6062 block. Strategically placed tapped (say 6-32) holes - well you get the jest of it.

//RF

Thanks, the parts would be 3pc, the rednering doesnt show the part lines very well.. The rear piece has to be plastic as the electircal connections would be made there.

After going to the local hardware store, its gona be about 70 bucks for a 2 3/4 and 3 3/4 hole saw .... Im going to see abou thow much it would cost to SLS the parts. It will probably be between 100 and 200 im guessing. Also going to see if you can waterjet plastic sheets.. that would be slick too.

clint

[87chevy.com]

managed to finish laying out the volts and oil cluster and the fuel and temp cluster... they are almost the same with the exception of the bulb location. I sent the file out to a prototyper to get a quote on getting this made. A while back I asked the same comany for a quote on SLS or SLA prototype on a hybrid front steering spindle (used dodge ram center hub with c-10 connection points and corvette caliper mounts - wicked cool) and the cost wasnt bad at all. When I hear back from them with a quote, I'll post an update.
All goes well, I will order 2 sets and put one on ebay or craigslist.
Here are the 2 drawings:



clint

[rfmaster]

I used a local waterjet place to cut crank shaft shims out of SS 0.090" sheet. I supplied material and $20 later I had a pair of shims. The trick is to find a local water jet place that is willing to take on tiny - one off jobs. Otherwise, price wise it can be anything.

//RF

[87chevy.com]

thats wicked good price. I got the first quote back at around 100 bucks per cluster x 3, so its a little pricey, but in the end its gonna be stuipd good looking installed. Its using the SLS process out of nylon 12 I think it was. Need to research the mateiral and make sure its sturdy, which it probably is..
I also need to think about how many extra sets I should order since its basically a bed of this material and the lazer just melts the part/grows it... so potentially I can get better pricing if I use up the bed of material per say.
clint

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

thats wicked good price. I got the first quote back at around 100 bucks per cluster x 3, so its a little pricey, but in the end its gonna be stuipd good looking installed. Its using the SLS process out of nylon 12 I think it was. Need to research the mateiral and make sure its sturdy, which it probably is..
I also need to think about how many extra sets I should order since its basically a bed of this material and the lazer just melts the part/grows it... so potentially I can get better pricing if I use up the bed of material per say.
clint

I have used SLC for prototyping purposes with mixed results. We found that SLC parts were not sturdy enough to be suitable for load bearing structures. In other words good enough for static modeling and fitment checks, but too fragile when loaded. In my case we were prototyping a complex case design which housed a small stepper motor, gear train and control electronics. SLC allowed us to validate component placement and check for potential interference issues. However, applying small load to output shaft fractured bearing support web! Consequently, we added additional support webbing and went to die casting. SLC allowed to de-risk die casting tool since it costs boat load of money.

//RF

[87chevy.com]

Good to know, its something I will ask the rep when I get my last drawing done. The parts will be solid with no webbing. The gauge has 2 holes where you could insert tiny screws to the clusters trim plate in the rendering, that piece will be glued and bolted to the black trim and clear lense of the cluster. the back part will mainly be to take up the same space as the original cluster mateiral + position the lamp in the right spot. I need to ask what temperature ranges the material deforms at because its a bulb and bulbs get warm and it would be a waste if the bulbs melt the nylon.... I will check and post my findings.
heres what the cluster will look like when finished



clint

[87chevy.com]

I looked at the data sheet on the Nylon-12 GF (is what was quoted) and Im not educated on how to understand that information. I sent an email to him asking if a bulb could defom it... just incase I made a ridge around the top and sides as shown here:



Dunno if it would help being the same material.. but it would make it a bit more rigid holding the bulb anyway.
Heres a link to the spec sheet

SLS_Nylon_12_GF_Material_Specifications.pdf
clint

[rfmaster]

The rear plate just 'screams' CNC Aluminum.

[87chevy.com]

The rear plate has to be plastic or non conductive because the screws that hold the gauge to the cluster actually make the electrical connection... it has a special screw.
clint