Stock suspension help/insight

[Spackle100]

Hey Guys, this is my first build so...
I am putting on some new stock bits for my front suspension (58 1/2 ton) and I got a few questions...

This is the front outer threaded sleeve for the shackle. I received a new one (and threaded bolt) with the shackle kit I ordered from LMC. Would it be stupid to leave the old threaded sleeve in there? If I shouldn't, how do I get this out?
Outer:


Inner:


Second question is for the rear leafsrping. Should I remove these sleeves (in the bracket) too? And where can I get a replacements?


Thanks!

[dwcsr]

Question one, if you screw in the new pin and there is little to no slop up and down then leave it in. They are a PIA to get out and press in.
Question two, there is no bushing in the rear hanger, only in the spring eye and it should get replaced along with the bolt and nut. LMC shoud have them as well if not classic parts does.

[Spackle100]

Thanks! I checked the front and there is very little play so I am going to leave those in. As for the rear, thanks for clearing that up. I have new leafsprings and they already have the bushing inserted. So I think I am good to go!

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Question one, if you screw in the new pin and there is little to no slop up and down then leave it in. They are a PIA to get out and press in.
Question two, there is no bushing in the rear hanger, only in the spring eye and it should get replaced along with the bolt and nut. LMC shoud have them as well if not classic parts does.

[Spackle100]

Hey guys, do you think the old spindles look a bit tired? I am on the fence about replacing them. This is how they look after i cleaned them with some brake cleaner...







Thanks!

[OrrieG]

Looks are deceptive, mic them.

[dwcsr]

They look good to me. I've seen far worse go into service.

[raycow]

The only damage that matters would be to the kingpin bores, bearing seats, and threads. Everything else is just cosmetic. As suggested, mike the bearing seats, just to be on the safe side.

Ray

[Spackle100]

Thanks guys, the kingpin bores are as snug as you can get and the threads are good, so no worries there.

Sorry but I don't know what it is to mic or mike them. Could someone share?

Thanks!

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Spackle100

Sorry but I don't know what it is to mic or mike them. Could someone share?

The spindle diameter where the bearings fit is somewhat critical. I believe it is supposed to be 0.750" on the outer and 1.281" on the inner, maybe minus a few tenths so you can get the bearings on by hand. You can mike the inside of the bearings to make sure.

Ray

[OrrieG]

mic = use a micrometer to check the diameter of the shaft for ware. A good quality vernier dial caliper will work to, they can go to thousands of an inch. a good micrometer can go even closer tolerence. I've gotten good micrometer sets at estate sales. Micrometer is C shaped below. They come in sets or if you only have the bucks for 1 get a 4". I just noticed the picture I grabbed is for a metric micrometer, get one that reads in inches.

[Russell Ashley]

How many of you guys have ever miked a spindle to see if it was good? I never have, I just use the "look and feel" method of checking them. From what I can see in the pics the spindles look to be in good condition. If it were me I'd just clean the bearings up good and slide them on the spindle. They should have a reasonably tight fit but shouldn't take more than very little pressure to slide onto the bearing surface. They are not a press fit. If they slide on to the bearing surface and don't have any slop then the spindles are good IMO.
On the other hand, it's a good opportunity to buy a new tool and learn how to use it. If you buy either one I'd suggest the vernier caliper first. I think you'll use it more often than a mic.

[Spackle100]

Thanks again guys. I actually do know what a micrometer is and have used one, just didn't realize the abbreviated word was for that. I'll look into the vernier caliper for sure. My brother in law is a mechanical engineer so he'll probably have a field day with it.

I will also check out the bearings and how they go on I am planning on replacing them with tapered roller bearings.

I am fairly certain I will be able to reuse those spindles, they were well greased and there are no pitmarks or scoring. For future reference, if there was some glazing on it, would that be a concern?

Thanks!

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Spackle100

For future reference, if there was some glazing on it, would that be a concern?

Glazing shouldn't be a problem. The most common reason for rejection is that a bearing seized and the inner race spun on the spindle. Since the race is harder than the spindle, the spindle can sometimes get torn up pretty badly.

Ray

[Spackle100]

Thanks raycow, that is good to know.

Another question

I am going the power brake route with rotors and calipers. I have read that I will have to drill out the studs that hold the hub to the drum to reuse the hubs. I have not been able to find new hubs minus the drum except for the Selectro's that LMC sells and IMHO they are a bit pricey. Does anyone know of any other company that makes hubs?

Thanks!

[dwcsr]

The rotors and hub will be one piece and should be included in the disc kit. The only new hubs you will find are New Old Stock, The selcectro are 4x4 locking hubs not for 2x4 trucks.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Spackle100

I have read that I will have to drill out the studs that hold the hub to the drum to reuse the hubs. I have not been able to find new hubs minus the drum except for the Selectro's that LMC sells and IMHO they are a bit pricey. Does anyone know of any other company that makes hubs?

Sorry, but I am unclear about why your hubs need to re-used. All of the stock type rotors that are commonly used for disc conversions on these trucks have integral hubs. What kind of rotors are you looking at?

In the event you do need to separate your stock hubs and drums, first see if they are held together by rivets. If they are, just cut off the heads and drive the rivets out. If no rivets, drive the studs back through the hubs and the drum will fall off. Don't do this with the hub still mounted on the spindle because it is bad for the bearings.

Ray

[Spackle100]

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I am keeping the 6-lug pattern.

http://www.performanceonline.com/194...ETE-CBK6-4959/

or

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...s/4954CBK6.htm

They both state that their kits use the existing hubs. Mine are secured by rivets.
From a safety stand point, is it a bad idea to re-use the stock hubs?

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Spackle100

They both state that their kits use the existing hubs. Mine are secured by rivets.
From a safety stand point, is it a bad idea to re-use the stock hubs?

Ahhh - now I understand. You are keeping the original spindles, which would either need to be machined or else require special bearings if you didn't re-use the stock hubs.

There is no safety issue with re-using the original hubs. Normally they can be used forever unless a bearing failure causes the cups get loose.

Ray

[Spackle100]

Originally Posted by raycow

Ahhh - now I understand. You are keeping the original spindles, which would either need to be machined or else require special bearings if you didn't re-use the stock hubs.

There is no safety issue with re-using the original hubs. Normally they can be used forever unless a bearing failure causes the cups get loose.

Ray

Thanks!