brake rebuilds.

[RIA69]

ok so here is the deal. I have to replace my brake shoes in my truck.( all 4 corners) the only other time I have changed brakes on this year of truck is about 8 yrs ago on my '70 chevy lwb. What will I HAVE to replace? aside from the obvious parts like shoes and possibly and god forbid drums. springs, wheel cylinders? The rear axle is an eaton HO52 from what I have gathered it is a "partial floating axle". So I know I need fluids for the axle housing. Is there any links for a how to or anything I was unable to find much on the site about it. while I am at it I am going to check the gear ratio as well. thanks for the help. and info.

[truckdude239]

i think drums on the eatons are hard to come by

[truckdude239]

mostly shoes, the ahrdware and at worst case wheel cylinders if they are leaking

[Stocker]

HO52 has full-floating axles, and yes, drums for it are rare. As stated, just shoes.... unless you find other problems. Have a can of brake cleaner handy.

[RIA69]

ok thanks for the info. i was able to find all 4 drums for my Eaton at a pick and pull for 20 bucks for all 4 and there in great condition I grabbed those just in case. I know its a dumb question but for the rear axle the fluid you use when you put the shafts back in it would be 10-40 right?

[C. M. Wolf]

Ok, if you are going to do it right...

You'll need to carefully inspect the brake drums for any "out-of-round" and hot spots,(on top of being a min tol thickness or dia) if the drums aren't thick enough, they'll need replacing.

Then carefully inspect the wheel cylinders for any leaks or by-pass, if rebuilding make sure tp properly hone them out and replace the internal boots and shoes with new parts. You might also replace to brake-zirk fittings on the old wheel cylinders if you are only rebuilding them. The wheel cylinders can be rebuilt or easily replaced, if replacing them, make sure you get the AC-Delco/GM units that are still made by "Lockheed",(as seen on the casting of the original cylinders), these are still the best replacements and OEM.

Also carefully inspect any/all brake-unit springs for any wear or rust or cracks and replace them as needed. If you're not sure if some are good or not, it's always better to ere on the safe side and replace all of them with OEM springs.

Make sure you use the same type of brake fluid that you were using prior to the rebuild and these are completely compatible. Otherwise you'll need to completely flush the brake system with the new fluid. This should be done every ten years anyway because brake fluid can collect water and other contaminates that can cause your brakes to fail or wear before it's time.

Make sure you clean well the brake adj-fittings and properly lube them. no one arks brake pads any more and the first few dozens of miles will require the self-adjusters to work properly. Or you'll have to adjust those dirty, cranky things by hand until the ark of the new brake shoes match the inside diameter of the brake drums.

Also make darned sure you get all the possible air and possibly contaminated/old fluid out of the brake lines by correctly bleeding them. Nothing but problems if you don't. Brake fluids break down when exposed to air and moisture also. This is a main reason the brake systems are made mostly airtight.

This is also a good time to double check all those wheel bearing seals and surfaces and maybe even repack them with clean grease. You don't want any grease, oil, or other contaminates on those brake mating surfaces, ever, it's just like an oil spill on a road surface... you won't stop when you want to.

These are the more critical points of brake-jobs, if I've left anything out, I hope someone here will certainly chime in.

...

Brakes and Steering, the two things in a vehicle that can kill you if they fail! Do it right or get someone knowledgable to do it right for you.

IHTH

Michael

[C. M. Wolf]

Originally Posted by RIA69

ok thanks for the info. i was able to find all 4 drums for my Eaton at a pick and pull for 20 bucks for all 4 and there in great condition I grabbed those just in case. I know its a dumb question but for the rear axle the fluid you use when you put the shafts back in it would be 10-40 right?

Ah... maybe I'm not familiar with Eaton Rear ends, but I've always understood that 90w gear oil was recommended. (Unless the truck is in extreme artic conditions...)

? Something I don't know here?



Michael

[truckdude239]

10-40 umm no i'd go with an 80w90 and if it is posi you need to add a posi additive

[RIA69]

I have no idea if its posi or not how will I tell?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by RIA69

for the rear axle the fluid you use when you put the shafts back in it would be 10-40 right?

10W-40 is engine oil, not for differentials.

Original was either 80W-90 or straight 90 weight.... you should use either dino or synthetic, 80W-90 or 75W-90.

I'm using Mobil-1 (synthetic) 75W-90.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by RIA69

I have no idea if its posi or not how will I tell?

Jack up the rear, trans in neutral and parking brake off. Rotate one tire -- if the other tire spins in the opposite direction, it's an open diff. If it spins in the same direction, it's a posi -- or more correctly with an Eaton, it's a No-Spin. I understand they are fairly rare.

[RIA69]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Jack up the rear, trans in neutral and parking brake off. Rotate one tire -- if the other tire spins in the opposite direction, it's an open diff. If it spins in the same direction, it's a posi -- or more correctly with an Eaton, it's a No-Spin. I understand they are fairly rare.

ok thanks Ill check that out tommorrow. thanks for all the helpful info guys.

[Luvlegs]

for what it's worth, I did a long post almost 2 years ago with pics and such - I did a step by step of the rear - I'm not too good at findingh old stuff here but if you search a bit, you might find it. It was pretty basic but maybe it'll help somebody else looking at doing it.

I actually DID find it! so, for what it's worth....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=291592

[RIA69]

Thanks for the link that will help out a lot. But let me get this right, I have to pull the rear axle cover off and drain the entire axle and then unbolt it from the carrier in order to pull the axle halves off? I just want to make sure. sounds like a real pain in my as$.

[john]

Your HO 52 is a full floating axle. Just pull the axle bolts and pull axle out. I believe the pics were on a 12 bolt. The brake parts should look the same. You will need a drain pan to catch the small amount of oil that will run out of the tubes. You also have inboard drums so you will need to remove the wheel bearings to remove the brake drum. Here a link for timkin bearing adjustment. scroll down to rear axle part.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...gs_English.pdf


.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

O-haul or replace the wheel cyl's weather they are leaking or not. If they arn't leaking now they will be in a few day's after you run it & ruin your new linings.