Opinions on cross support

[rbar]

I will be putting a 700r4 in my 65 and moving the engine forward 2.5" to the front two holes. This will help in HEI and tall valve cover clearance, which both fit now, but touch. It's worse on the valve covers when the engine torques to the side. My concern then is if the manual transmission/bell housing cross support will be in my way for tranny pan access, and if I should remove it and possibly make the frame less rigid. What do you guys think?

[SCOTI]

You'd be removing one x-member & replacing it w/another slightly farther back. I don't think the frame will be less rigid & it will prob make servicing components easier. If it's not in the way of anything, you could just leave it.

[SFTorange]

I did a lot of research on this for my truck, and I discovered that the powerglide equipped trucks didn't even have this crossmember from the factory. I removed mine, and I think a lot of other guys do as well. It definitely helps with clearance for the automatic. It'll be a heck of a lot easier to remove it with the cab off! It took me several hours under the truck to cut mine out.

[rbar]

That's good information SFTorange, and I was wanting to make that decision before the cab gets on for the very reason you stated. Thanks.

[Allensracing]

easiest way to remove those, if thats your frame. grind the heads off the rivets until they are completely flush with the frame. take a big punch and drive them out.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SFTorange

I did a lot of research on this for my truck, and I discovered that the powerglide equipped trucks didn't even have this crossmember from the factory. I removed mine, and I think a lot of other guys do as well. It definitely helps with clearance for the automatic. It'll be a heck of a lot easier to remove it with the cab off! It took me several hours under the truck to cut mine out.

I've cut them off flush @ the frame rails w/a sawz-all (20-30min job w/the drivetrain out). IMO, there's no real need to remove the pieces riveted to the frame since they're out of the way (other than looks).

[padresag]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I've cut them off flush @ the frame rails w/a sawz-all (20-30min job w/the drivetrain out). IMO, there's no real need to remove the pieces riveted to the frame since they're out of the way (other than looks).

there is no need to do a lot of things. depends on what you are happy with. a lot of guys go around with out their shoes being tied up to. i always look at them being a little lazy
ron

[60724x4]

Interesting, I was wondering the same thing! I think grinding off 8 rivets will be the better/ faster option, then ill have the origonal crossmember incase i ever try to change my mind half way through the build.

[rbar]

I ground the rivets off for the e-brake cross piece and slipped it out. That works good there. My plan was to grind the rivets off for the cross member and see if I can slip it out. With the way the frame bends at that point it looks like there's a chance I will have to cut it in the middle to get the two pieces to slide out, but I hope not just to save a cut and mostly it would be nice if I could save it just in case. Of course I have come across these questions AFTER I have the frame powder coated. I will use some POR-15 and touch up paint afterwards.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by padresag

there is no need to do a lot of things. depends on what you are happy with. a lot of guys go around with out their shoes being tied up to. i always look at them being a little lazy
ron

Not sure what exactly you're trying to say here. I offered a simple alternative; nothing more, nothing less as I've done it both ways depending on the situation.

If a guy doesn't have an air compressor w/air chisel & his body is on the frame, cutting the x-member flush w/the frame accomplishes the goal of getting it out of the way. Once the drivetrain is in, it's not like it will stick out & be visible.

[structures]

I did the same thing. basically removed the 3 speed cross members and installed a power glide cross member from 65. My combo is a 4.8 and 4l60e.