Do-it-Yourself dash repair.

[benoit454]

I figured I'd make a post about my latest project in case somebody else would like to fix there dash.

Tools and supplies needed:
1.Compressor to run die grinder
2.Die grinder, I used a right angle style one
3.Surface condition disc, or sanding disc, I used 36 grit, was old one half worn out. Plenty of others would work. Theese are to be used on the die grinder.
4.Sand paper, I used dry paper only, 36 grit and 220. 36 was old worn out junk just to cut it down fast.
5.Automix flexible repair compound, it's a 2 part system, designed for bumper cover repair. A little costly, like $35 for small pack(more then enough) or $55 for the large pack. I had half tube left of each to use on this dash.
6.Some scrap cardboard or mixing board.
7.Bondo spreader.
8.Sanding block, like 4-6" long.
9.Grease and wax remover, I had some R&M left over, fairly cheap stuff.
10.vinyl paint, I used some plastic kote stuff from wal-art for like $4 a can.
11.Maybe some cleaning/primer thinner for extra cleaning measure. or tack rags.

Here's what I started with....

You can clearly see how it's cracked.

The first thing I did was to knock down the cracks, since they were bulged upwards. I done this with a right angle die grinder and a grinding disc like 36 I think. I also broke loose the cracked or loose pieces, and used the grinder to smooth the edges. That step may or may not have been a great idea, doing so took out some of the foam underlay, which made me need to use more filler. it looked like this once done...

You can see I had like 4 big spots to deal with.


Next step was to mix and apply the automix compounds. it's easy, it mixes 50/50 squeeze out a line about 4-6 inches long of both tubes, then mix to even color. Apply just like bondo. it dires in about 30 minutes and can be sanded. once that was done I needed more because I had low spots. i sanded mine with a rubber sanding block and some 36 grit paper on it, using an X-pattern, like blocking a body down to keep it flat and level. After the 36 I went back over it with some 220.


Now since I had used half of the automix previouly I ran out, and mainly due to the fact that I cut into the foam too deep, left me short on the automix. I used some glazing putty to fill in some low spots, I wouldn't recomend it though, by all means if you can use the automix as the only filler. Once I had it all sanded and smooth I took it outside, wiped it down with the grease and wax remover, then followed that with some laquer thinner, just to be safe. I knew I had alot of armor all on the dash.



I laid it out in the sun to warm it up also, next I shook up the vinyl paint, and sprayed it using light coats, then allowed some dry time between coats, just a minute or two. it dried very quick. I put about 4-6 coats on it total, I noticed it you got it on too heavy it would fisheye/seperate, but would dry out smooth. So light coats is the key. once you get a few coats on, you can get a little heavier with the coats. Just watch yourself, don't get too carried away or it could run or seperate badly. Here's how it looks now....




It turned out really well, so well in fact I pulled the door panels, cleaned them in the same way as listed above and painted them with the same vinyl paint.




Also I'm sure most of you noticed the speaker opens are all broken out, I done this on purpose because they were all cracked, se 1st pic. I am going to make some custom ones out of wire mesh to put back in. I'll post some pics once I get this stuff put back in hopefully tomorrow.

One final note I did not try to duplicate the grain pattern, I just left the repair spots the way they were after the 220 paper. I also went over the whole dash some with the 220. if you'd like texture consider using some textured paint(not trunk paint) or some vinyl top paint, or try to spray some paint on and dab it with a rag, that leaves some texture to it.

[roj2323]

cool looks good. when you get a chance could you post some close ups of the repair areas on the dash?
O

[benoit454]

I can do that. I messed up using the glazing putty as mentioned because it didn't featheredge/blend as well, and some areas got scimped on the edges.

I wasn't happy about them, but this was just a first time trail and error deal, plus it looks better then them huge cracks LOL.

[benoit454]

Only spots that messed up were the passenger side where I had to use the spot putty to fill in low spots, on the front, the tops turned out good. The driver's side turned out better because it used only the automix no putty needed.

Here's the same spot shown in the 3rd. pic up top.


This is the top part of that same spot(sorry about the dust showing up and dog hair.)


Driver's side top...

[Billy81]

Looks good to me only question i have is once it's installed in the truck will it crack if some one puts their hand on it? I ask because that spot on the passenger side is right where every one puts their hand while climbing in my truck.

[84slopwaggin]

Good write up. Good job for the first time attempt.

[oldgmc]

Looks good I will have to give it a try I was trying to figure what to use the patch the dash and if its designed for bumper covers it should remain flexable.

[benoit454]

Yes that would be correct it's for rubber bumpers and supposed to stay flexible. So no it shouldn't crack if people lay there hand on it.

That's probably why yours is cracked, old and hard dash, hand on it, pressure=CRACK!!!!!

Mine might due to me using some spot putty as filler for low spots, it's not flexible. That's why i recomend using ONLY the duramix, or automix flexible repair stuff.

[Crank]

Okay a few questions. What are you going to do for those portions that you've cut out where the speakers usually are? Stainless mesh or something? Also, I know I'm just thinking here, but what about bedliner material like linex or whatever, would it adhere to a dash if properly prepped? As long as taped off to keep it from filling in the places where you wouldnt want it to build up, it could work right? NO?
Brandon

[benoit454]

No idea on bedliner stuff.

Yea I have some aluminum mesh. I have it all finished, my dad done the mesh didn't turn out as well, but we were in a hurry to get it done so we can drive it tomorrow. Yesterday and today we were driving my monte carlo ss since it was nice, but tomorrow is supposed to be cold and rainy, and the truck is the only one with a heater.

[84 400]

wow great idea and thad!!!! post up some pics of the interior if you get a chance all back to geather

[benoit454]

DUH!! I keep forgetting sorry about that, I'll be in and out of the truck rest of this week one day I'll remember to get pictures hopefully LOL.

[augie]

Nice job thanks for the write-up love to see that kind of stuff. My dash looks just like yours used to.

[mySAVIOReigns]

Great job - looks great.

[benoit454]

Thanks guys.

I just wanted to pass along the info to help out as much as possible.

[mixednuts]

Hello and thanks for the pictures, I have a 91 burb with the dash that looks
as bad or worse as yours. I have been afraid to tackle it as I am totally
confused as to the removal of the dash. Can you share any tips or help on
the dash removal, Is it very difficult? Thanks for the help
Perhaps you can give us a step by step removal and install for the dash!

Thanks Mixednuts

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by mixednuts

...
Perhaps you can give us a step by step removal and install for the dash!
...

To remove the dash:

1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
2. Remove the radio control knobs by pulling on them.
3. Remove the four screws holding the steering column cover and remove the cover.
4. Slide the rubber steering column molding at the base of the instrument bezel towards the steering wheel.
5. Remove the eight screws along the perimeter of the instrument bezel and remove the bezel.
6. Remove the four screws along the middle and right lower edge of face of the dash.
7. Open the passenger door and remove the screw on the side of the dash.
8. Tilt the face of the dash up and pull out to remove. (Clips under and in the rear of the dash align it to the base of the windshield).

Reverse the process to install dash.
Note:

• Be sure to align the clips when installing the dash.
• Be sureto align the air ducts to the corresponding vents while installing the dash and the bezel. (The passenger side ducts may be attached by accessing them from within the glove box.)
• Do not overtighten screws.

Good job, benoit.

[benoit454]

Exactly right, but let me add this job be done without removing the cluster, the part around the guages, but man is it EASIER to take them out and remove the dash pad and reinstall.

Now removal of the pad with guage surround in isn't bad, but reinstall is a real PITA.

I'd definately reccomend removing the bezel or surround around the guages.

If you leave it in you have to remove like 5 or 6 of it's screws anyways. I did mine w/o removing the bezel only because I have a cd player in the truck, and the cage for it has the tabs bent holding it to the surround and metal dash, and has to be fought to get in or out, and unplugged so it's extra work and a PITA.

Also don't forget some radios have little nuts on the dials that you have to take off after the knobs are removed. I think that's only aftermarket ones though, not sure on factory, never had one.

[Zilverado]

Wow!!! That looks pretty terrific.

I've been away from the forum for quite a while (just too busy it seems), and just stopped by today for a look around - and found this little piece of information.

Looks great Benoit. I think I might have to try this for myself.

[benoit454]

Sorry for the delay guys here's some reinstalled pics.






You can see the end 2 grilles aint that great but th emiddle turned out ok.

[79BIG10]

That looks great with the new oak finish panels in there as well. Did you make those or did you get it from somewhere?

[benoit454]

I made thoose myself. They are gonna be changed out for a wood trim kit soon probably. One that has the door pieces, dash and around the guages. I want one of thoose high gloss ones that uses the 3m tape on the back.

Thing is most of the kits are burlwood or zebrano or whatever. The zebrano looks like what's in there now but not as light, and the burlwood is funny and swirly looking lol, its also alot darker.

[boxrodz]

hmmm....

I wonder how the speaker openings would look if they were trimmed out with some stock that matches the wood trim kit.

Originally Posted by benoit454

...
Thing is most of the kits are burlwood or zebrano or whatever. The zebrano looks like what's in there now but not as light, and the burlwood is funny and swirly looking lol, its also alot darker.

Reminds me of a former manager who collected burls off of Pine trees to use in his carvings. He was able to remove the burls without harming the tree. The random grain patterns and color shades made his carvings really nice.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Nice...I wonder if there's a tool to create the same wrinkley texture of the existing dash.