Ready to Kill this square - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Nukes16 · 01-15-2011, 06:10 AM

I drive my truck to a buddies to help him move after work (on a friday) and then the giant sack of crap won't start. It would turn over but wouldn't fire! I get another buddy to drive me home to get my tools and grab a distributor cap, rotor, and coil off of one of my parts trucks. I drive all the way back out to my truck (about 30 miles) with the tools, parts, lights etc (because it's dark now) only to replace everything 2 or three times, trying every, coil/cap/rotor combination that I had. Finally I have to call a tow truck and have this terd towed home for a mere $138.40. On the way home I stop and but a new coil, cap and rotor and replace those again when I get home.... and wouldn't you know it.... still no spark. It's now 2 in the morning and it's still not running. How can it be running fine one minute and not getting a spark the next?
Anyone have a suggestion, or should I blow this thing up?
Thanks for your help

S10Fan · 01-15-2011, 06:50 AM

Did you replace the ignition module?

one low c10 · 01-15-2011, 09:00 AM

I have had a fuseable link from the starter blow and had the same problem. take the module to the parts store and have it tested first. make sure they test it like 10 times in a row if it tests good because sometimes they heat up and break apart. did you check power to the coil?

Restrorob · 01-15-2011, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by one low c10

did you check power to the coil?

And while cranking ?

No mention of year/engine ?

Check the wires on the pick-up module, I've seen the wires break at the ignition module plug connector from the advance moving it back and forth....

ont_guy_38 · 01-15-2011, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S10Fan

Did you replace the ignition module?

Very typical gm problem when all the sudden there is no spark

primrrd · 01-15-2011, 12:16 PM

just had the same thing.
22.00 4 prong ignition module later, it fired right up!
**
usually if it just dies, or it will run and die- and start up a little later- the hei ignition module is the first place to look.
dont throw parts at a problem- you have to be forensic about it...
use a test light to see if power is going to the distributor with the ignition on- if it is- try the module. (i keep a spare one now in my glove box...)

Nukes16 · 01-15-2011, 02:07 PM

what the heck is an ignition module? I guess I will find out. As far as I can see, all of the wiring looks good.
By the way the truck is a 1986 half ton, 2 wheel drive. It has no condenser because it is electric... as far as I know.
Thanks again everybody!

S10Fan · 01-15-2011, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nukes16

what the heck is an ignition module? I guess I will find out. As far as I can see, all of the wiring looks good.
By the way the truck is a 1986 half ton, 2 wheel drive. It has no condenser because it is electric... as far as I know.
Thanks again everybody!

Inside your distributor under the rotor button screwed to the base of the distributor.

Restrorob · 01-15-2011, 05:29 PM

The pick-up plugs onto the module S10Fan pictured ^^^^ That's the wires to check for breakage, Inside the insulation as well....

Nukes16 · 01-15-2011, 06:51 PM

Thanks guys, the pics help. I know exactly what you are talking about now. My ignition module has 3 prongs on the firewall side and 2 on the other. I'm guessing that I have to use the exact one. Of course the one I pulled from my parts truck has only 4 prongs total (like the one pictured above). I'm too scared to even try it. Off to the parts store I go.
Cheers everyone

bitchin85 · 01-16-2011, 01:22 AM

yea yours has esc (electronic spark control) it should have a total of 6 prongs though. four on one side and two on the other. the 4-pin wont even plug in to your distributor.

MAKE SURE you put the stuff on the bottom of it, between the distributor and ign module, that comes in the box. i forgot the name but its like grease that transmits heat out of the ign module and into the dist. base. it will fry if you dont. i had the same problem you are having and thats what it was. good luck

Nukes16 · 01-16-2011, 09:14 AM

Once again I am ready to kill this thing. I replaced the ignition module (I bought 2 of them and tried them both) I replaced the module connector harness and capacitor. As mentioned before, I have already replaced the cap, the rotor, and the coil. What next? I checked the wires going to the coil and they it has power with the ignition, the light dims considerably when it is cranking, though it was difficult to see when in the truck. Unfortunately I don't have an ohmmeter to get any readings. I'm not sure what to do next, could it be the pick-up coil? And if so, can I replace it without taking the distributor out?

Nukes16 · 01-16-2011, 09:29 AM

Now into it for $280 ($140 for parts and $140 for the tow) and it's still not sparking. Not to mention that it's 5:30 in the morning and I've been working and cursing at it all night. Time to go to bed and try again tomorrow!

one low c10 · 01-16-2011, 10:02 AM

is the rotor even turning (sounds kinda dumb) maybe the timing chain broke. doubt it usually they stretch and send timing out of whack. I would put it back together and get a jumper wire and run it from the battery to the coil and try to start it. did you make sure you put the button in the cap on correctly? maybe it is not making contact with the rotor. just trying to think of anything at this point. is it backfiring or anything?

Restrorob · 01-16-2011, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nukes16

could it be the pick-up coil? And if so, can I replace it without taking the distributor out?

Well, The pick-up coil tells the ignition coil when to spark. If it goes out there's nothing to tell the coil to spark.

Distributor must be pulled and the shaft removed to get the pick-up out.....

Nukes16 · 01-16-2011, 03:50 PM

Man, I've tried everything except for the pick up coil at this point or maybe a sledge hammer. I guess that is next. I did try running a direct wire to the coil from the battery. The rotor is spinning, I guess I'll go get a new pick up coil and give that a try. That's pretty much the last thing left.
Thanks again guys

grayharville · 01-16-2011, 04:06 PM

I had an 82 buick regal with a 3.8 v6, It was running when parked, then sat for a couple years. I tried to start and had no spark, replaced everything, still no spark, turned out to be the pickup coil too.

Nukes16 · 01-16-2011, 04:18 PM

I hope so, I'll let you guys know ASAP!

russgt · 01-16-2011, 04:40 PM

Do you know anyone with a spare distributor laying around that you could swap it with?

Nukes16 · 01-16-2011, 04:57 PM

I have one here actually, I'll pull it and check it out.

85Bowtie · 01-16-2011, 06:18 PM

Have you replaced the coil button? It's on a small spring and I had them go out frequently creating the same problems you describe. If you replaced the cap and rotor, you probably replaced it as well, just making sure that you did replace it though.

gchemist · 01-16-2011, 09:36 PM

Does it have an ESC module?

Nukes16 · 01-19-2011, 02:58 AM

Alright, this square is back in my good books. It was the pick up coil after all! That darn little coil was the root of all the starting problems. Replaced it, threw the distributor in and she fired right up... and is running great once again.
Thanks for all of your help everyone!

primrrd · 01-19-2011, 10:12 AM

Yeah Nukes!
Right after I commented on this thread I started popping ignition modules... Made my own thread and still working on a fix!
Once they are running good, all is forgiven!

01-15-2011, 06:10 AM	#1
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Ready to Kill this square I drive my truck to a buddies to help him move after work (on a friday) and then the giant sack of crap won't start. It would turn over but wouldn't fire! I get another buddy to drive me home to get my tools and grab a distributor cap, rotor, and coil off of one of my parts trucks. I drive all the way back out to my truck (about 30 miles) with the tools, parts, lights etc (because it's dark now) only to replace everything 2 or three times, trying every, coil/cap/rotor combination that I had. Finally I have to call a tow truck and have this terd towed home for a mere $138.40. On the way home I stop and but a new coil, cap and rotor and replace those again when I get home.... and wouldn't you know it.... still no spark. It's now 2 in the morning and it's still not running. How can it be running fine one minute and not getting a spark the next? Anyone have a suggestion, or should I blow this thing up? Thanks for your help

01-15-2011, 06:50 AM	#2
S10Fan Old Heap Driver Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Newport News, Va Posts: 2,642	Re: Ready to Kill this square Did you replace the ignition module? __________________ _____________________________ Bryan '99 Silverado 1500, 4.3, 5-speed, reg cab, short bed '50 Chevy 2DR Hard Top, 350/350, M2 Front End, 3:08 gear, cruiser. '40 F**d Sedan, all Chevy power, Heidt's front end, TCI rear, nice driver.

01-15-2011, 09:00 AM	#3
one low c10 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Toledo, Ohio Posts: 106	Re: Ready to Kill this square I have had a fuseable link from the starter blow and had the same problem. take the module to the parts store and have it tested first. make sure they test it like 10 times in a row if it tests good because sometimes they heat up and break apart. did you check power to the coil?

01-15-2011, 12:16 PM	#6
primrrd Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: houston, tx Posts: 323	Re: Ready to Kill this square just had the same thing. 22.00 4 prong ignition module later, it fired right up! ** usually if it just dies, or it will run and die- and start up a little later- the hei ignition module is the first place to look. dont throw parts at a problem- you have to be forensic about it... use a test light to see if power is going to the distributor with the ignition on- if it is- try the module. (i keep a spare one now in my glove box...)

01-15-2011, 02:07 PM	#7
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square what the heck is an ignition module? I guess I will find out. As far as I can see, all of the wiring looks good. By the way the truck is a 1986 half ton, 2 wheel drive. It has no condenser because it is electric... as far as I know. Thanks again everybody!

01-15-2011, 05:29 PM	#9
Restrorob The One And Only !!! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Hole in the woods Florida Posts: 4,567	Re: Ready to Kill this square The pick-up plugs onto the module S10Fan pictured ^^^^ That's the wires to check for breakage, Inside the insulation as well.... __________________ 93 Jeep XJ 88 Buick La Sabra Toys; 88 TA-GTA in the works.... 97 GMC Ext. Cab 502 Crate 5 Spd......Sucks Gas But Haulz Azz ! The primary function of an Engineer is to make it difficult for the Fabricator and impossible for the Mechanic. *"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!* Last edited by Restrorob; 01-15-2011 at 05:30 PM.

01-15-2011, 06:51 PM	#10
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square Thanks guys, the pics help. I know exactly what you are talking about now. My ignition module has 3 prongs on the firewall side and 2 on the other. I'm guessing that I have to use the exact one. Of course the one I pulled from my parts truck has only 4 prongs total (like the one pictured above). I'm too scared to even try it. Off to the parts store I go. Cheers everyone

01-16-2011, 01:22 AM	#11
bitchin85 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Lambertville MI Posts: 962	Re: Ready to Kill this square yea yours has esc (electronic spark control) it should have a total of 6 prongs though. four on one side and two on the other. the 4-pin wont even plug in to your distributor. MAKE SURE you put the stuff on the bottom of it, between the distributor and ign module, that comes in the box. i forgot the name but its like grease that transmits heat out of the ign module and into the dist. base. it will fry if you dont. i had the same problem you are having and thats what it was. good luck __________________ "I'll keep my guns, money, and freedom. You can keep the "change"

01-16-2011, 09:14 AM	#12
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square Once again I am ready to kill this thing. I replaced the ignition module (I bought 2 of them and tried them both) I replaced the module connector harness and capacitor. As mentioned before, I have already replaced the cap, the rotor, and the coil. What next? I checked the wires going to the coil and they it has power with the ignition, the light dims considerably when it is cranking, though it was difficult to see when in the truck. Unfortunately I don't have an ohmmeter to get any readings. I'm not sure what to do next, could it be the pick-up coil? And if so, can I replace it without taking the distributor out?

01-16-2011, 09:29 AM	#13
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square Now into it for $280 ($140 for parts and $140 for the tow) and it's still not sparking. Not to mention that it's 5:30 in the morning and I've been working and cursing at it all night. Time to go to bed and try again tomorrow!

01-16-2011, 10:02 AM	#14
one low c10 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Toledo, Ohio Posts: 106	Re: Ready to Kill this square is the rotor even turning (sounds kinda dumb) maybe the timing chain broke. doubt it usually they stretch and send timing out of whack. I would put it back together and get a jumper wire and run it from the battery to the coil and try to start it. did you make sure you put the button in the cap on correctly? maybe it is not making contact with the rotor. just trying to think of anything at this point. is it backfiring or anything? Last edited by one low c10; 01-16-2011 at 10:03 AM.

01-16-2011, 03:50 PM	#16
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square Man, I've tried everything except for the pick up coil at this point or maybe a sledge hammer. I guess that is next. I did try running a direct wire to the coil from the battery. The rotor is spinning, I guess I'll go get a new pick up coil and give that a try. That's pretty much the last thing left. Thanks again guys

01-16-2011, 04:06 PM	#17
grayharville ^^who I am^^ what I say> Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Murchison, Tx Posts: 992	Re: Ready to Kill this square I had an 82 buick regal with a 3.8 v6, It was running when parked, then sat for a couple years. I tried to start and had no spark, replaced everything, still no spark, turned out to be the pickup coil too. __________________ 70 chevy LWB 350/TH350 Barn find (AKA the 70) http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=406364 East Tx Squares

01-16-2011, 04:18 PM	#18
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square I hope so, I'll let you guys know ASAP!

01-16-2011, 04:40 PM	#19
russgt Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Waukesha, WI Posts: 904	Re: Ready to Kill this square Do you know anyone with a spare distributor laying around that you could swap it with? __________________ 70 stepside 76 blazer 86 Silverado 20 Max Trailering 6.2 Crew 71 Nova SS My Blazer build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=363634



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01-16-2011, 04:57 PM	#20
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square I have one here actually, I'll pull it and check it out.

01-16-2011, 06:18 PM	#21
85Bowtie Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: TN Posts: 410	Re: Ready to Kill this square Have you replaced the coil button? It's on a small spring and I had them go out frequently creating the same problems you describe. If you replaced the cap and rotor, you probably replaced it as well, just making sure that you did replace it though. __________________ '69 Dodge Charger R/T 440, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '68 Plymouth Road Runner 383, 727, 3.23 Sure Grip '89 Dodge Diplomat ex cop car 408, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '77 Dodge Monaco ex cop car 440, 727, 2.71 '79 Dodge 'Lil Red Express pickup 360, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '12 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392, M6, 3.92 '85 Chevrolet C-10 SWB 2wd 305, TH350, 2.73

01-16-2011, 09:36 PM	#22
gchemist BAD BOW-Silverado XST Join Date: May 2000 Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX Posts: 6,431	Re: Ready to Kill this square Does it have an ESC module? __________________ Gerardo a.k.a. Mad Chemist Silverado XST videos Last edited by gchemist; 01-16-2011 at 09:36 PM.

01-19-2011, 02:58 AM	#23
Nukes16 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 103	Re: Ready to Kill this square Alright, this square is back in my good books. It was the pick up coil after all! That darn little coil was the root of all the starting problems. Replaced it, threw the distributor in and she fired right up... and is running great once again. Thanks for all of your help everyone!

01-19-2011, 10:12 AM	#24
primrrd Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: houston, tx Posts: 323	Re: Ready to Kill this square Yeah Nukes! Right after I commented on this thread I started popping ignition modules... Made my own thread and still working on a fix! Once they are running good, all is forgiven!

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