1st time Intake manifold replacement, HELP! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

SuperCheyenne72 · 07-02-2003, 10:37 AM

Hey guys,

Long time no post... but when the time came, I knew where to turn... so here I go.

I've finally ditched my old remanufactured Quadra-Jet and bought my 750 Edelbrock. The bad news is, that its not a perfect fit on my Holly Contender manifold... so I would probably need an adapter plate between the two.

The good news is, I already own an Edlebrock Performer manifold that goes with the carb.

The ugly news is, I've never swapped an intake manifold before! I've done carbs, distributors, and valve cover gaskets, but I have no idea what I'm in store for. I have my Haynes manual, and the Edelbrock installation instructions ready to go.... but you know there's always that one thing missing that you can't learn from manuals, and thats FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE.

SOOooo, does anybody out there have any good advice for swapping intake manifolds? Any key pointers would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! THANKS to ALL of you in advance for ya'lls wisdom, God Bless!

**CPNE** · 07-02-2003, 10:56 AM

buy new gaskets
don't get any dirt/debris in there while exposed
Get manual that has torque values and torque sequence (if I had mine here I'd share that info). THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
Some of the bolts go into water jacket if I recall. Probably a good idea to use some RTV type sealer on the bolt threads.

Did it once, it was not a huge undertaking,.

tom hand · 07-02-2003, 11:13 AM

Buy good gaskets...you can't go wrong with Fel-Pro. As soon as you open the gaskets find the rubber pieces that go at the end of the intake...throw these into the garbage as soon as possible. Use RTV in place of these rubber things and you will never have an oil leak on the back where you can't find it. Every thing else will be in a good manual. It is really easy...take your time and you will be fine

Slammed67 · 07-02-2003, 11:26 AM

Ditto on the RTV part. Don't use the rubber end seals. Just lay a bead across both ends, let it set up until it skins over, then set the intake straight down. I also, put a few small dabs of RTV between the intake gaskets (on the excess gasket areas) and the head surface and set them in place ahead of time. Once the RTV dries it'll hold the gaskets in place so they won't slip out of place when you set intake down. It's not too difficult.

SuperCheyenne72 · 07-02-2003, 12:08 PM

Whew, I knew I could count on you guys out there... I guess I just needed some words of encouragement.

Something just came to mind though. Once I get this job done, I don't expect to get back in there for a while. The engine already has over 50,000 miles on it, should I clean, apply, replace or do anything once I have the manifold and valve covers off?

*Randy70C-10* · 07-02-2003, 01:24 PM

Surprized at you guys.

Don't forget to pull the distributor cap off and see what way the rotor cap is pointing, because it has to go back on the same way!!!! Also, mark the distributor itself at where the rotor is, because that's your timing! Now you can pull the distributor. You may want to drain the antifreeze first as well.

c-tenkid · 07-02-2003, 02:09 PM

Also taking the thermostat housing out.And stick a wet/dry vac's hose down in there sucks all the coolant out pretty good.That prevents a big mess.

When I put my intake on I used the rubber seals on both ends.And alot of RTV.It don't leak at all.

Make sure the distrubitor goes in the same spot.And don't over torque the bolts.You can strip the threads on the heads.I did that on one of mine.It was a pita to fix to.

Good luck.

tom hand · 07-02-2003, 02:16 PM

Randy70C-10 in his original post he said he knew how to swap a distributor. That is the part that gets most people the first time.

adkphoto · 07-02-2003, 02:21 PM

If you have the paperwork with the Edelbrock intake, it should have the torque sequence. If you can't find it written down, start from the middle of the engine and work out, switching left to right.

Final torque value should be 20 ft-lbs. I do it in 2 steps (10, 20) but that may not be necesssary.

Ditto on the stuff all of the guys pointed out above, it's not a hard job.
* drain the radiator
* set the engine to TDC and mark your distributor position
* scrap the end gaskets
* keep it clean

Some new ones:
* make sure you have the right carb gasket
* you might want to get new carb studs and nuts
* you might need to get a throttle return spring and bracket
* use Edelbrock's intake bolts. Don't re-use the stock ones or whatever you're using on the contender intake
* the Edelbrock manifold has a couple of extra openings that you may need to get pipe plugs for
* Unless I'm forgetting something, you don't *need* to take the valve covers off.
* you need an external fuel filter for the Edelbrock Carb. Get a new fuel hose while you're at it. Spectre sells a decent braided hose and filter kit that looks great if you're into that.
* check your fuel pressure. The Edelbrock Performers run good with stock pumps at 6 psi
* if you have an electric choke model, you'll need a 12v source
* make sure you use the right port on the carb for vacuum advance. Carb paperwork tells which one is which.

Just for argument's sake... I don't think the intake manifold bolts go into the water jacket. heads bolts do for sure. I've always wrapped my intake bolts with teflon plumbers tape and had no problems. I suppose it couldn't hurt to use RTV either.

Good luck! You'll enjoy much better performance when you're done.

David

adkphoto · 07-02-2003, 02:26 PM

Here's a link to Edlebrock's site with the instructions for the manifold:

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ral_instr.html

David

**COBALT** · 07-02-2003, 03:00 PM

You might consider checking the lifter valley for debris, and verify the lifters and push rods are in good shape. With the valve covers off you can check the rockers and make sure they're tight.

I've swapped a few manifolds, and I always do the same thing:

1. Once all of the accessories are out of the way and the valve covers are off I take the dist. cap off the distributor and use a ruler to put a piece of tape on the firewall to mark where the rotor is pointing. This helps later with slipping the distributor back in if you don't want to go through the trouble of finding TDC to reset your distributor.

2. Once the old intake and carb are pulled I clean all of the mating surfaces with NAPA brake cleaner and a small piece of scotch brite. The surfaces should be squeaky clean and dry to the touch. This includes the heads, the front/back of the deck, and the mating surfaces on the intake.

3. Make sure the intake is free of debris. Sometimes with bead-blasting debris can get in there. That's the last thing you need getting into your valve train or into the combustion chamber.

4. Get a good set of gaskets. I've actually had great luck with the good ole stock ones from NAPA. Throw the rubber ends away.

5. For sealant I go off the standard RTV, and acutally use Silicone II Window/Door sealant (black) I buy at Home Depot! I use it to seal up my differential and transmission and it works wonders. It stays a tiny bit flexible so it makes a good seal hot or cold and it doesn't break down.

6. I smear a bit around the water jackets, and a dab in the corners, and I let this set up until it starts to feel firm at the touch, and then I set the gaskets in place.

7. Then I smear a bit around the water jackets again with the gaskets in place, and again dab in the corners. Then I run a 1/4" bead on the front/back of the deck and make sure I overlap at the corners to get a consistent bead. I let this set up until it starts getting firm at the touch, and I set the intake in place STRAIGHT DOWN WITHOUT MOVING IT BACK AND FORTH. You dont' want to disturb the gaskets.

8. Install the intake bolts and finger tighten them. Use a tightening pattern listed in one of the "Build a Small Block" books, or the Haynes manual. Get them torqued down, and then leave the intake alone for a few hours, then retorque.

9. The next day put on your carb, accessories, etc.

jef5150 · 07-02-2003, 04:41 PM

youll need this...i also have the head sequence,and also for head & intake for big block jeff

smokekiki · 07-02-2003, 04:51 PM

I'll put my 2 cents in.c-tenkid said to use a shop vac to suck up the anti freeze.While it is out,use the vac to suck in the gasket crap as you are scrapping them of.Make sure to place a rag in the valley.

SuperCheyenne72 · 07-02-2003, 05:22 PM

Thanks everybody for the great advice. I'm gonna start on it right after work tonight.

I'm not sure what "water jackets" are, so I guess I'll find out when I come across them.

I'll let ya'll know how it goes after my 8 hr. round trip from Dallas to Houston for the weekend! Wish me luck!

MandarinSixSeven · 07-02-2003, 05:26 PM

I felt the same way when I did mine. Just make sure to triple check everything and when it's done you will think "that wasn't so bad" :0

*Randy70C-10* · 07-02-2003, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tom hand
Randy70C-10 in his original post he said he knew how to swap a distributor. That is the part that gets most people the first time.

Ah yes, I missed that. I'm a speed reader, I read twice as fast but only catch half of what I'm reading.

Gordo · 07-02-2003, 10:00 PM

Contrary to popular believe, I've installed the rubber end gaskets DRY ( only a dab of sealer in the corners) for the past 30 plus years with out problems, not to say that the stuff in the tube isn't better. You can also drain the block dry of coolant by removing the 9/16 head pipe thread plugs at the base of the block on each side after you have drained the radiator.

07-02-2003, 10:37 AM	#1
SuperCheyenne72 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Dallas, TX USA Posts: 80	1st time Intake manifold replacement, HELP! Hey guys, Long time no post... but when the time came, I knew where to turn... so here I go. I've finally ditched my old remanufactured Quadra-Jet and bought my 750 Edelbrock. The bad news is, that its not a perfect fit on my Holly Contender manifold... so I would probably need an adapter plate between the two. The good news is, I already own an Edlebrock Performer manifold that goes with the carb. The ugly news is, I've never swapped an intake manifold before! I've done carbs, distributors, and valve cover gaskets, but I have no idea what I'm in store for. I have my Haynes manual, and the Edelbrock installation instructions ready to go.... but you know there's always that one thing missing that you can't learn from manuals, and thats FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE. SOOooo, does anybody out there have any good advice for swapping intake manifolds? Any key pointers would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! THANKS to ALL of you in advance for ya'lls wisdom, God Bless! __________________ '72 Super Cheyenne LWB 350 V8 w/ TH400 MSD Pro Billet HEI Dist. w/ Splitfire plugs Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and dual exhuast glasspaks Edelbrock Performer 750 cfm

07-02-2003, 10:56 AM	#2
CPNE Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: NH Posts: 6,662	buy new gaskets don't get any dirt/debris in there while exposed Get manual that has torque values and torque sequence (if I had mine here I'd share that info). THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Some of the bolts go into water jacket if I recall. Probably a good idea to use some RTV type sealer on the bolt threads. Did it once, it was not a huge undertaking,. __________________ Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all

07-02-2003, 11:13 AM	#3
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	Buy good gaskets...you can't go wrong with Fel-Pro. As soon as you open the gaskets find the rubber pieces that go at the end of the intake...throw these into the garbage as soon as possible. Use RTV in place of these rubber things and you will never have an oil leak on the back where you can't find it. Every thing else will be in a good manual. It is really easy...take your time and you will be fine __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

07-02-2003, 11:26 AM	#4
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Ditto on the RTV part. Don't use the rubber end seals. Just lay a bead across both ends, let it set up until it skins over, then set the intake straight down. I also, put a few small dabs of RTV between the intake gaskets (on the excess gasket areas) and the head surface and set them in place ahead of time. Once the RTV dries it'll hold the gaskets in place so they won't slip out of place when you set intake down. It's not too difficult. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

07-02-2003, 12:08 PM	#5
SuperCheyenne72 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Dallas, TX USA Posts: 80	Any thing extra? Whew, I knew I could count on you guys out there... I guess I just needed some words of encouragement. Something just came to mind though. Once I get this job done, I don't expect to get back in there for a while. The engine already has over 50,000 miles on it, should I clean, apply, replace or do anything once I have the manifold and valve covers off? __________________ '72 Super Cheyenne LWB 350 V8 w/ TH400 MSD Pro Billet HEI Dist. w/ Splitfire plugs Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and dual exhuast glasspaks Edelbrock Performer 750 cfm

07-02-2003, 01:24 PM	#6
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	Surprized at you guys. Don't forget to pull the distributor cap off and see what way the rotor cap is pointing, because it has to go back on the same way!!!! Also, mark the distributor itself at where the rotor is, because that's your timing! Now you can pull the distributor. You may want to drain the antifreeze first as well. Last edited by Randy70C-10; 07-02-2003 at 01:27 PM.

07-02-2003, 02:09 PM	#7
c-tenkid Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Festus mo Posts: 370	Also taking the thermostat housing out.And stick a wet/dry vac's hose down in there sucks all the coolant out pretty good.That prevents a big mess. When I put my intake on I used the rubber seals on both ends.And alot of RTV.It don't leak at all. Make sure the distrubitor goes in the same spot.And don't over torque the bolts.You can strip the threads on the heads.I did that on one of mine.It was a pita to fix to. Good luck. __________________ 69 c-10 lwb,Converted to 4x4,dana 44f,12blt,4 inch lift,vortec headed 355,th350/np203 34x10.50x15 swamper tsl's

07-02-2003, 02:16 PM	#8
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	Randy70C-10 in his original post he said he knew how to swap a distributor. That is the part that gets most people the first time. __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

07-02-2003, 02:21 PM	#9
adkphoto Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Camillus, NY USA Posts: 79	If you have the paperwork with the Edelbrock intake, it should have the torque sequence. If you can't find it written down, start from the middle of the engine and work out, switching left to right. Final torque value should be 20 ft-lbs. I do it in 2 steps (10, 20) but that may not be necesssary. Ditto on the stuff all of the guys pointed out above, it's not a hard job. * drain the radiator * set the engine to TDC and mark your distributor position * scrap the end gaskets * keep it clean Some new ones: * make sure you have the right carb gasket * you might want to get new carb studs and nuts * you might need to get a throttle return spring and bracket * use Edelbrock's intake bolts. Don't re-use the stock ones or whatever you're using on the contender intake * the Edelbrock manifold has a couple of extra openings that you may need to get pipe plugs for * Unless I'm forgetting something, you don't need to take the valve covers off. * you need an external fuel filter for the Edelbrock Carb. Get a new fuel hose while you're at it. Spectre sells a decent braided hose and filter kit that looks great if you're into that. * check your fuel pressure. The Edelbrock Performers run good with stock pumps at 6 psi * if you have an electric choke model, you'll need a 12v source * make sure you use the right port on the carb for vacuum advance. Carb paperwork tells which one is which. Just for argument's sake... I don't think the intake manifold bolts go into the water jacket. heads bolts do for sure. I've always wrapped my intake bolts with teflon plumbers tape and had no problems. I suppose it couldn't hurt to use RTV either. Good luck! You'll enjoy much better performance when you're done. David __________________ 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super LWB Chevy Red/White with rally wheels. Not-so-Stock 350, A/T, A/C, tilt. Vroom, Vroom.... ===================== David Colbert dcolbert@twcny.rr.com Work hard, play harder!

07-02-2003, 02:26 PM	#10
adkphoto Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Camillus, NY USA Posts: 79	Intake installation instructions Here's a link to Edlebrock's site with the instructions for the manifold: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ral_instr.html David __________________ 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super LWB Chevy Red/White with rally wheels. Not-so-Stock 350, A/T, A/C, tilt. Vroom, Vroom.... ===================== David Colbert dcolbert@twcny.rr.com Work hard, play harder!

07-02-2003, 03:00 PM	#11
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	You might consider checking the lifter valley for debris, and verify the lifters and push rods are in good shape. With the valve covers off you can check the rockers and make sure they're tight. I've swapped a few manifolds, and I always do the same thing: 1. Once all of the accessories are out of the way and the valve covers are off I take the dist. cap off the distributor and use a ruler to put a piece of tape on the firewall to mark where the rotor is pointing. This helps later with slipping the distributor back in if you don't want to go through the trouble of finding TDC to reset your distributor. 2. Once the old intake and carb are pulled I clean all of the mating surfaces with NAPA brake cleaner and a small piece of scotch brite. The surfaces should be squeaky clean and dry to the touch. This includes the heads, the front/back of the deck, and the mating surfaces on the intake. 3. Make sure the intake is free of debris. Sometimes with bead-blasting debris can get in there. That's the last thing you need getting into your valve train or into the combustion chamber. 4. Get a good set of gaskets. I've actually had great luck with the good ole stock ones from NAPA. Throw the rubber ends away. 5. For sealant I go off the standard RTV, and acutally use Silicone II Window/Door sealant (black) I buy at Home Depot! I use it to seal up my differential and transmission and it works wonders. It stays a tiny bit flexible so it makes a good seal hot or cold and it doesn't break down. 6. I smear a bit around the water jackets, and a dab in the corners, and I let this set up until it starts to feel firm at the touch, and then I set the gaskets in place. 7. Then I smear a bit around the water jackets again with the gaskets in place, and again dab in the corners. Then I run a 1/4" bead on the front/back of the deck and make sure I overlap at the corners to get a consistent bead. I let this set up until it starts getting firm at the touch, and I set the intake in place STRAIGHT DOWN WITHOUT MOVING IT BACK AND FORTH. You dont' want to disturb the gaskets. 8. Install the intake bolts and finger tighten them. Use a tightening pattern listed in one of the "Build a Small Block" books, or the Haynes manual. Get them torqued down, and then leave the intake alone for a few hours, then retorque. 9. The next day put on your carb, accessories, etc. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-02-2003, 04:41 PM	#12
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	torque sequence youll need this...i also have the head sequence,and also for head & intake for big block jeff Attached Images Last edited by jef5150; 07-02-2003 at 04:44 PM.

07-02-2003, 04:51 PM	#13
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,473	I'll put my 2 cents in.c-tenkid said to use a shop vac to suck up the anti freeze.While it is out,use the vac to suck in the gasket crap as you are scrapping them of.Make sure to place a rag in the valley. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

07-02-2003, 05:22 PM	#14
SuperCheyenne72 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Dallas, TX USA Posts: 80	Going for it tonight after work Thanks everybody for the great advice. I'm gonna start on it right after work tonight. I'm not sure what "water jackets" are, so I guess I'll find out when I come across them. I'll let ya'll know how it goes after my 8 hr. round trip from Dallas to Houston for the weekend! Wish me luck! __________________ '72 Super Cheyenne LWB 350 V8 w/ TH400 MSD Pro Billet HEI Dist. w/ Splitfire plugs Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and dual exhuast glasspaks Edelbrock Performer 750 cfm

07-02-2003, 05:26 PM	#15
MandarinSixSeven Seasonal Poster Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kelowna BC Canada Posts: 896	I felt the same way when I did mine. Just make sure to triple check everything and when it's done you will think "that wasn't so bad" :0 __________________ 67 GMC Short Step 350/4-Speed/3.08 Posi Front/Rear Sway Bars Kelowna BC, Canada Member of DTPW



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

07-02-2003, 10:00 PM	#17
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Contrary to popular believe, I've installed the rubber end gaskets DRY ( only a dab of sealer in the corners) for the past 30 plus years with out problems, not to say that the stuff in the tube isn't better. You can also drain the block dry of coolant by removing the 9/16 head pipe thread plugs at the base of the block on each side after you have drained the radiator. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist. Last edited by Gordo; 07-02-2003 at 10:07 PM.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.