What's wrong with my truck? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

c-tenkid · 06-29-2003, 07:40 PM

Today when I first got in my truck.I turned the key.As soon as I did smoke came from under the dash.I believe that was the cheapo rampage radio smoking.

Anyway as soon as I noticed it I shut the key back off and pulled the power wire out of the fusebox for the radio.

Now the truck wont do anything at all.You turn the key on and everything is dead.Nothing at all turns on.I checked the fuses and there all fine.I hooked battery up to the charger and it had power still.

I am at a loss.What is going on here?

Please help!

jef5150 · 06-29-2003, 07:49 PM

go check your batterys pos+ cable,theyre "should" be a wire that runs right to the fender to a black connector,then continues on by the top of your grill.Thats a "fuseable"link,,,,see if its melted...

c-tenkid · 06-29-2003, 08:05 PM

Correct!

My buddy said something about it.We didn't try it though.Went out there and touched it the headlights came on the and blinker worked.I knew that was it.

Connected it the posive terminal again.Pluged my Wire for my HEI back in and she fired right up.Good deal.

Awesome!

This is such an awesome board.

Thanks for the help

BTW,what does it do?

Project1970 · 06-29-2003, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by c-tenkid
BTW,what does it do?

Saves your truck when stuff like that happens

jef5150 · 06-29-2003, 08:12 PM

i alway start with the easy stuff FIRST,glad to help,,,,,,,you should go buy a replacement for it ,theyre disigned to blow.. before you do major damage

Terry S · 06-29-2003, 10:42 PM

Hey, speaking of this, does anybody know what kind of amperage that link is supposed to be rated for? Mine is long gone and I need to replace it before I have a meltdown of some sort.

Longhorn Man · 06-29-2003, 11:11 PM

I think it is supposed to be 30 amp.
I plan on installing a fuse instead of a fuseable link. Much easier to diagnose and replace.

c-tenkid · 06-30-2003, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by longhornmail
I think it is supposed to be 30 amp.
I plan on installing a fuse instead of a fuseable link. Much easier to diagnose and replace.

Good idea.I will probably go to radio shack and see if I can't find something rig that up.I guess I could use like an amp wire.That would work.

bpmcgee · 06-30-2003, 03:17 PM

I think that a fuseable link was used in place of a fuse in "slow-blow" situations. That is, a fuse will snap if there is any current that high. A link has a slightly longer tolerance for higher amperages, but will blow if it's more than a fraction of a second.

I could be wrong, I just remember reading this someplace.

Brian

Project1970 · 06-30-2003, 03:57 PM

Just go to NAPA - they should have them there.

GasHog396 · 07-01-2003, 04:53 PM

The fuse option works great. I've had one on my '67 for about 3 years now, and have never had it blow, even with the AC running. 30 amp fuse (green - blade type) is what I have been using. Just make sure you get a fuse holder that is water tight. I think I got mine at AutoZone, but any autoparts store or maybe even WalMart should have one. I prefer the blade type fuses, as they are easy to pull and inspect. One other benefit is you can pull out the fuse when it is going to sit for awhile. This will prevent most unauthorized usage, and prevent battery drain. Just remember to run a fused line to the radio if it has a memory function.

Longhorn Man · 07-01-2003, 05:09 PM

Gashog...I see this is your first post...welcome to the board.

*dtlilly* · 07-01-2003, 06:24 PM

Another welcome from S.W. Tennessee to Gashog.

On the subject about the fusable link. There was something wrong that caused the link to burn out. You need to fix the problem, not just the symptom.

**old Rusty C10** · 07-01-2003, 08:57 PM

welcome Gashog from the Garden State and for you guys putting in fuses for the fusable link you can go to a marine supply and get a nice watertight one cheap enough they sell em all the way up to fifty amps althopugh thirty is plenty in this appllication

GasHog396 · 07-01-2003, 10:53 PM

Thanks for the welcome. When replacing the fuseable link to a fuse, you need to use the same amperage fuse that link is. The marine supply store is a good idea, and there are even a few of them here in north Texas. I was down at AutoZone today looking for manifold flange gaskets for my '97 TA and forgot to look at the fuse holders. Thought for the day: Changing the plugs and wires on a F-Body with a LT1 is no fun.

I've had a few choice words for the General on that design.

c-tenkid · 07-02-2003, 02:29 AM

I know the problem.My cheapo rampage's tape player went south.It wont work anymore.I said in the first post that it is what broke.

I am going to use a peice of wire with a blade type fuse in it.I got a couple around here in some old peice of power wire I used with my amp's.I will probably do that tommorow.

mdill · 07-02-2003, 12:26 PM

The 30 will blow if you ever forget to turn your
lights off though ! That wire supplies the current
from the alt to the battery, and if you fire the
engine up with a real low battery, more than 30
amps will be put though the wire (for a short
while any ways) A fuseable link is really better
here as it will pass 60 amps (for a short while)
yet burn out if the load stays to high for too
long.

Mike D.

jhwkns · 07-02-2003, 11:40 PM

Generally speaking a fuseable link is a piece of wire two gauges smaller than the wire it's fusing.... ie. a link for a 12 ga. wire would be 16 ga.

06-29-2003, 07:40 PM	#1
c-tenkid Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Festus mo Posts: 370	What's wrong with my truck? Today when I first got in my truck.I turned the key.As soon as I did smoke came from under the dash.I believe that was the cheapo rampage radio smoking. Anyway as soon as I noticed it I shut the key back off and pulled the power wire out of the fusebox for the radio. Now the truck wont do anything at all.You turn the key on and everything is dead.Nothing at all turns on.I checked the fuses and there all fine.I hooked battery up to the charger and it had power still. I am at a loss.What is going on here? Please help! __________________ 69 c-10 lwb,Converted to 4x4,dana 44f,12blt,4 inch lift,vortec headed 355,th350/np203 34x10.50x15 swamper tsl's

06-29-2003, 08:05 PM	#3
c-tenkid Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Festus mo Posts: 370	Correct! My buddy said something about it.We didn't try it though.Went out there and touched it the headlights came on the and blinker worked.I knew that was it. Connected it the posive terminal again.Pluged my Wire for my HEI back in and she fired right up.Good deal. Awesome! This is such an awesome board. Thanks for the help BTW,what does it do? __________________ 69 c-10 lwb,Converted to 4x4,dana 44f,12blt,4 inch lift,vortec headed 355,th350/np203 34x10.50x15 swamper tsl's

06-29-2003, 10:42 PM	#6
Terry S Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Haysville, KS Posts: 118	Hey, speaking of this, does anybody know what kind of amperage that link is supposed to be rated for? Mine is long gone and I need to replace it before I have a meltdown of some sort. __________________ I can do all things thru Christ, but he evidently doesn't want me to beat that Camaro light to light....

06-30-2003, 03:57 PM	#10
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	Just go to NAPA - they should have them there. __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

07-01-2003, 08:57 PM	#14
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,277	welcome Gashog from the Garden State and for you guys putting in fuses for the fusable link you can go to a marine supply and get a nice watertight one cheap enough they sell em all the way up to fifty amps althopugh thirty is plenty in this appllication __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

06-29-2003, 07:49 PM	#2
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	go check your batterys pos+ cable,theyre "should" be a wire that runs right to the fender to a black connector,then continues on by the top of your grill.Thats a "fuseable"link,,,,see if its melted...

06-29-2003, 08:12 PM	#5
jef5150 Inline 69 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: valleysprings,california Posts: 1,018	i alway start with the easy stuff FIRST,glad to help,,,,,,,you should go buy a replacement for it ,theyre disigned to blow.. before you do major damage

06-29-2003, 11:11 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I think it is supposed to be 30 amp. I plan on installing a fuse instead of a fuseable link. Much easier to diagnose and replace.

06-30-2003, 03:17 PM	#9
bpmcgee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 2,181	I think that a fuseable link was used in place of a fuse in "slow-blow" situations. That is, a fuse will snap if there is any current that high. A link has a slightly longer tolerance for higher amperages, but will blow if it's more than a fraction of a second. I could be wrong, I just remember reading this someplace. Brian

07-01-2003, 04:53 PM	#11
GasHog396 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Ponder, TX Posts: 33	The fuse option works great. I've had one on my '67 for about 3 years now, and have never had it blow, even with the AC running. 30 amp fuse (green - blade type) is what I have been using. Just make sure you get a fuse holder that is water tight. I think I got mine at AutoZone, but any autoparts store or maybe even WalMart should have one. I prefer the blade type fuses, as they are easy to pull and inspect. One other benefit is you can pull out the fuse when it is going to sit for awhile. This will prevent most unauthorized usage, and prevent battery drain. Just remember to run a fused line to the radio if it has a memory function.

07-01-2003, 05:09 PM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Gashog...I see this is your first post...welcome to the board.

07-01-2003, 06:24 PM	#13
dtlilly Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field Posts: 5,597	Another welcome from S.W. Tennessee to Gashog. On the subject about the fusable link. There was something wrong that caused the link to burn out. You need to fix the problem, not just the symptom.

07-01-2003, 10:53 PM	#15
GasHog396 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Ponder, TX Posts: 33	Thanks for the welcome. When replacing the fuseable link to a fuse, you need to use the same amperage fuse that link is. The marine supply store is a good idea, and there are even a few of them here in north Texas. I was down at AutoZone today looking for manifold flange gaskets for my '97 TA and forgot to look at the fuse holders. Thought for the day: Changing the plugs and wires on a F-Body with a LT1 is no fun. I've had a few choice words for the General on that design.

07-02-2003, 02:29 AM	#16
c-tenkid Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Festus mo Posts: 370	I know the problem.My cheapo rampage's tape player went south.It wont work anymore.I said in the first post that it is what broke. I am going to use a peice of wire with a blade type fuse in it.I got a couple around here in some old peice of power wire I used with my amp's.I will probably do that tommorow. __________________ 69 c-10 lwb,Converted to 4x4,dana 44f,12blt,4 inch lift,vortec headed 355,th350/np203 34x10.50x15 swamper tsl's

07-02-2003, 12:26 PM	#17
mdill Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Richfield MN Posts: 44	The 30 will blow if you ever forget to turn your lights off though ! That wire supplies the current from the alt to the battery, and if you fire the engine up with a real low battery, more than 30 amps will be put though the wire (for a short while any ways) A fuseable link is really better here as it will pass 60 amps (for a short while) yet burn out if the load stays to high for too long. Mike D. __________________ 72 3/4 ton 4X4 Suburban (and way to many FSJ's (J series jeeps)



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07-02-2003, 11:40 PM	#18
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	Generally speaking a fuseable link is a piece of wire two gauges smaller than the wire it's fusing.... ie. a link for a 12 ga. wire would be 16 ga. __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

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