Two piece driveline?

[GhostTown]

Does anyone run a two piece drive line in a bagged AD? It would save from having to redo the cross member between the cab and the truck, as well as cutting a notch or tunnel in the cab. Crazy idea?

[cap n crunch]

Originally Posted by GhostTown

Does anyone run a two piece drive line in a bagged AD? It would save from having to redo the cross member between the cab and the truck, as well as cutting a notch or tunnel in the cab. Crazy idea?

It's not crazy, it's been done by many people.........

[upon1]

Im also interested in this idea. Does anyone have any pics of this?

[OrrieG]

Stock big trucks came with 2 piece drive lines. In my 59 tf short bed I ran a granny four speed and 1 ton rear end with a two piece drive line for a number of years. I pulled it out of another truck so I don't know if they came that way or the drive line had been shortened. Also, lots of 60s gm autos ran them too. They work ok and will take a reasonable amount of abuse but I can tell you from experience a 63 Impala center bearing will not hold up to repeated abuse behind a 375 HP 396 and 4 speed trans. I always carried an extra and got pretty good at roadside replacement!

[cap n crunch]

Originally Posted by upon1

Im also interested in this idea. Does anyone have any pics of this?

I think someone on here had some pics in their build thread, if I run across something I'll post up a link..................

[GhostTown]

Originally Posted by cap n crunch

I think someone on here had some pics in their build thread, if I run across something I'll post up a link..................

I would appreciate that. Thank you.

[BlueJeep]

Not exactly what you're looking for, but I'm using the s10 2 piece driveshaft in my 49 on an s10 frame. It's been shortened to accomodate my motor position.

[MrDude_1]

Im far too abusive to my drivetrain to use a two piece driveshaft...
I would either do the tunnel, or raise the cab up a bit higher.

[GhostTown]

Across the street from me there is a '61 Impala with a 500 hp big block and a two piece drive line. It's a pro touring car. He drives it hard, but I'm not sure that he's abusive.

[cajundragger]

I'd bet he has the inland empire centersupport which is awesome and 1000 times better than stock.

The main draw back to a two piece is having a slip yoke on the rear shaft if your lowered.

These trucks are so short tho I'd just put a 1 piece shaft in it. My
truck lays running board and it wasn't that much of an intrusion into the cab floor to allow for the 1piece shaft.
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[MrDude_1]

Originally Posted by GhostTown

Across the street from me there is a '61 Impala with a 500 hp big block and a two piece drive line. It's a pro touring car. He drives it hard, but I'm not sure that he's abusive.

Im not trying to say it is impossible to have a strong two piece driveshaft.. I mean, look under some huge delivery trucks.
And in some cases it makes alot of sense.. for example, if i had a very long wheelbase car/truck and tried to run a single driveshaft, i could easily get harmonic vibration issues.

but like cajundragger just said, these trucks have short enough wheelbases, with the engine far enough back, that we dont NEED two piece driveshafts.
actually, if you were to have alot of suspension travel, be it from a custom 4x4 link setup, or from alot of airbag travel, you could actually get very large (undesirable) driveshaft angles from a two piece driveshaft setup.

if this is just a cruiser, it doesnt matter.. a properly installed 2 piece will probably be perfectly silent and fine.
if you do anything stupid like me (dragstrip, autoX, beating-on-it-like-a-16yr-old-for-kicks, etc) then i highly reccomend a 1piece driveshaft..
i suppose a really well built aftermarket 2 piece would be a possible solution, but the cost/benefit ratio just isnt there in my mind.

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

I'd bet he has the inland empire centersupport which is awesome and 1000 times better than stock.

The main draw back to a two piece is having a slip yoke on the rear shaft if your lowered.

These trucks are so short tho I'd just put a 1 piece shaft in it. My
truck lays running board and it wasn't that much of an intrusion into the cab floor to allow for the 1piece shaft.
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But you did have to notch the rear of the cab right. I'm locating my engine/tranny right now and it looks mighty close near the rear of the cab. It could be cause the shaft I'm mocking up with is to big also
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[GhostTown]

I am so against notching the cab that it is worth the risks/costs of a two piece for me right now. The lowest my truck will go fully aired out will leave the running boards 2 inches off the ground.

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by GhostTown

I am so against notching the cab that it is worth the risks/costs of a two piece for me right now. The lowest my truck will go fully aired out will leave the running boards 2 inches off the ground.

you shouldnt need to notch it then. I only had to notch because I plant my running boards literally on the ground.

this is how much my cab is notched-


and I didnt need to do that much but I set everything up for when I want to run bigger wheels.

[cajundragger]

oh and let me add.

Im not complete against 2 piece shafts.

Im building a little truck right now that will be bagged and lay body and have a 2 piece driveshaft to save from cutting the floor as much because the truck has no space underneath it.

but for this application I really can't see why it'd be necessary when its hard to get it right and these trucks have plently of room underneath them even when they are laid on the ground.

[GhostTown]

I certainly appreciate your input. Thanks for the pic. It really is a small notch.

[LEEVON]

GhostTown, I have my truck set up with a small notch in the back and mustang II front on airbags. My running boards set about 2-3" off the ground. I played around in my head with a 2 piece driveshaft for a long time but when I finally set the engine and trans in I discovered I only needed about 56 1/2" which is a very standard size. I threw the 2 piece idea out the window. All I had to do was notch that crossmember which was really easy with some 1/4" plate. Take a look:

[GhostTown]

Thanks Leevon. I'll discuss this further with the guy who's doing the work. The images everyone provided has really helped.

[GhostTown]

After studying your images further Leevon, it just occurred to me that you ARE NOT notching your cab, right?

That would be great if mine works out to be the same.

[LEEVON]

Right, it will need a little clearancing at the pinch weld on the firewall (maybe 1/2") and I need to knock the trailing arm crossmember down about the same but no other issues.

[GhostTown]

I took your images to the guy working on my truck and after some debate, it was decided to removed that factory cross member all together and just build a new one. Turns out I'll get lower than I thought.

Thanks for posting those Leevon. It really helped.