How to pancake front crossmember?

[1967 deathwagon]

I have a 67 panel chevy wagon. I have seen where some have cut front crossmembers to make a drop crossmember. Does anyone have pix of where they have done this?

[lolife99]

Welcome to the board!
Member/Vendor Captkaos,... use to build and sell these.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=34790

Also check out his website.
www.73-87chevytrucks.com

[jmedero]

They are kind of a pain to do. I have done 3. Sold two and still have one. The cutting it and getting it right sucks. Lol.
Posted via Mobile Device

[1967 deathwagon]

Thanks. I have a dropped mine a little and wanted to drop more. Cool Truck

[1967 deathwagon]

Thanks

[roofingbloke]

Originally Posted by jmedero

They are kind of a pain to do. I have done 3. Sold two and still have one. The cutting it and getting it right sucks. Lol.
Posted via Mobile Device

This is a long shot; would you concider selling the crossmember ??

Thanks

[andrewmp6]

Or you could by a dropmember from http://porterbuiltstreetrods.com/sit...pmember-front/

[roofingbloke]

I have considerd the porterbuild front crossmember the build quality is second to none, the problem for me is the shipping as i am in the UK, It would be cool to have the first PB member in the UK,

I have the following choices,

1. Go as low as i can with bags n spindles,

2. Purchase a PB member,

3. Pancake my crossmember,

4. Try and purchase a crossmember that has been pancaked,

(i will be running 18s & 20s)

[Mkcustums]

Direct link - http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html

Also when you search, look under "sectioned crossmember" and you will find what you are looking for. Make sure you put it in quotes to keep it on the correct subject, it shows 117 links to info. Should help a lot plus lots of pics too!

[PBFAB.COM]

"It would be cool to have the first PB member in the UK"

We have a handful over there in Europe, but none in the UK that I am aware of!

Do whatever is best for your build/budget. Keep in mind that sectioning a factory crossmember and modifying the steering can be a lot of work to get it functioning properly, but it can be done. This forum will provide you with helpful information on any and all mods you could ever imagine for your C10!

[roofingbloke]

Thanks for the advice Nathan, will keep you in mind if all goes wrong.

[PBFAB.COM]

Anytime... don't even mind helping or answering questions that might come up with you attempting the section job as well. LMK

Nate

[roofingbloke]

Post for nathan,

If i was to go for your dropmember V3.2 for $999,

? does this use my stock upper and lower A arms & what steering rack is used + cost involved etc

[andrewmp6]

I think you can use your stock a arms not sure but the rack is 1979-1993 Mustang that's on his site.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by roofingbloke

....? does this use my stock upper and lower A arms & what steering rack is used + cost involved etc

I can answer that one. The Dropmember is designed to use stock A-arms. This allows you to use yours, or any aftermarket A-arms that are designed to be a direct replacement for stock arms. ie" Porterbuilt, or Ride Tech tubular arms.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by roofingbloke

Post for nathan,

If i was to go for your dropmember V3.2 for $999,

? does this use my stock upper and lower A arms & what steering rack is used + cost involved etc

The factory UPPER control arms from 63-87 are compatible and the factory LOWER control arms from 73-87 C10s are compatible.

63-72 lower control arms are NOT compatible... and here is the long story why: Originally we had the Dropmember designed with a large billet clamp that allowed the factory cross-shaft to be clamped in place on the crossmember. This allowed the use of 63-72 arms to fit after some trimming to the arms. It was necessary to trim them at the edge of the stampings close to the bushing ends. It was enough trimming, and close enough to the edge of the arm to where I felt it was better to stick with the 73-87 lowers, as they are a different stamping and there was NO need to trim them to fit. Since I decided it better and safer to stay with the 73-87 arms, I was able to change the shaft design to what it is today. No more billet clamps, and a safer way to run factory arms.