Buying Advice???

[snyder66]

So, For quite some time now, I have been considering buying an IH Scout. What I'm looking for is a fun summer vehicle that can also handle what winter has to offer. Well, I have been scared off by the rust issues of this vehicle. Are Blazers and Jimmys going to be any better at all? If so, What should I look for? I would definitely like the year style where the top is removable. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[turp mcspray]

If they are from the same area, then I would say no. Every vehicle has its areas that are prone to rust. I think you will have to shop in a dry area to get away from excessive rust issues. I have known people that lived in eastern areas of the country, and have seen brand new vehicles dissolve from rust, in as little as 5 years.

[snyder66]

So, Beyond buying a complete Kentrol fiberglass kit, Is your advice to overwinter it? Can any type of rust-proofing help at all?

[Gibber1967]

I picked up my Blazer for the same reason's you are looking for one.

My opinion would be that when you are buying a 40 year old vehicle, it's more about who owned it before and the area the arae it is from than the type of vehicle. Especially when you are talking about a 4x4 because most are driven year round...at least early on in their life (unlike maybe a sports car) and some have been beat in the bush.

These Blazers are bad for rust as well. The rocker boxes under the front seats are notoriously rusted out. If you find one where those are intact it tells you something about that vehicle (if they haven't been replaced). I looked for the Blazer I have now for about a year. I ended up going down from Canada and getting it in Nevada. I had one a few years back and I looked for one then for about 3 years.

Once you find a rust free Scout or Blazer there are things you can do to keep it from rusting, but the trick is finding one that is rust free to start with.

I doubt the Scouts have an Awesome website like this as a resource.....so that's another negative for them.

[snyder66]

Thanks. That makes a lot of sense. Could you tell me which production years did the Blazer have a removable top or back? Thanks

[Gibber1967]

'69's - 72's were the Gen. 1 with the full removeable top. 73 & 74's (I beleive) are the Gen. 2 with the newer body style and also had the full removeable top. You don't want one of those anyway....in my opinion. After that they went to the 1/2 tops.

[snyder66]

You like the 69-72s better?

[Gibber1967]

Well Ya!... who wouldn't!(just kidding). It's all about what you like, I know some guys love the newer ones. The Gen. 1's are more unique and I've always liked that body style....I've had a couple pickups with that same body style.

[turp mcspray]

Rust is a nasty thing. If EVERY seam is sealed up, to prevent any moisture from getting between 2 pieces of metal, and all the surfaces are covered with something (paint, undercoat etc) then rust will not form. But to do this just about impossible, due to the complexity of a vehicle construction. Regardless of the type of vehicle, rust will form if subjected to salty moist conditions. Have you ever seen a vehicle from a coastal region? They rust from the top down, due to the warm salty air that clings to the inside of upper panels due to condensation. And when cars are put together, there is a lot of bare metal on the inside of panels that is very difficult to get at to treat. All a guy can do is seal things up the best you can, and try to avoid wet salty conditions.

[truckster]

Aside from the construction, simple math is in the Blazer's favor; there were just a lot more of them made, so it's easier to find one that's half decent. Parts are easier to find. There are a lot more people with knowledge about Blazers than Scouts.

I bought my Blazer without an engine and with torn up seats because the body was pretty straight (it came from Nevada). There are still some decent ones out there, but you might need to be patient.

As far as first generation versus later Blazers, I really like the 1st-gen body style. The 2nd-gen I don't think is as distinctive. It also has very serious rust issues, so finding a 73-75 (the second-generation years with the completely removable top) in decent shape is going to be harder than finding a 69-72.

[swyfor5]

Gotta be a 69-72 K5! My all time favorite of any body style!

[swampbuck]

Windshield frame rust is bad (no patch panels available). Other than that make sure you get a good hard top too and have fun with it!!!!

[FoxHound]

Like Gibber said, the rocker boxes and the rocker panels seem to be the areas that get rust easiest. My Blazer didn't even have the panels when I bought it; they were completely rusted away.



Other areas to watch for are the inner and outer fenders directly beneath the battery tray. The acid from the battery over time leaks onto the metal and dissolves it. My tray was almost gone, and I had to replace my core support as well as the inner fender. I was able to repair the inside of the outer fender.

Also, the windshield frame. There don't seem to be aftermarket frames being made, so unless you can find a donor Blazer that will be a problem. I was lucky with mine, I was able to repair a small 3x3 inch piece on the windshield frame before it got too bad.

Finally, you'll want to watch for the areas on the bed beneath the "pads" that the bench seat sit on. I found some relatively rough rust under one of those, most likely because one of the POs had carpet in at on time. Carpet collects moisture easy.

Oh yea, I definitely recommend the 69-72s. They just scream classic to me -- which I guess makes sense cause they are the original Blazer!

[BIGBLU 72]

arent our Blazers/Jimmys wider and londer than a scout as well? i think that out make them better in the snow, i mean i have had mine in some iced up places back in hollers here in EKY and have never had it as much as slip a step?

[Ktm9900]

Hey Gibber, I'm picking up a blazer in Cali, did you need to do anything other than title and bill of sale to bring it home? You gotta love rust free to start a project on!
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[Gibber1967]

Ya, Bill of sale and title. Also make sure and have the for sale add and a receipt from the bank for what you paid either cash or cheque. I didn't have these things and it caused some problems proving what I paid. I would not fudge your price to save tax, the Canadian guys are good and know what they are doing.

Make sure and send your paper work to the border at the crossing you intend to use 72 hours ahead. You can call them and make sure it is all good before even heading down....at least that's what I did.

There is a fairly detailed description in a thread on this site if you search it. If you have any other questions let me know, I just brought mine over in Novemeber.

Gibber