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Old 07-05-2003, 02:01 AM   #1
78SilveradoSWB
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Question Raybestos Sure Stop Rotors

I was browsing the Parts America.com catalog looking for water pumps when I came across these Raybestos SureStop drilled/crossed rotors that fit my 78 C-10. I am assuming the model ST5006R and ST5006L are 1.25 inch rotors as I selected HD suspension as a parameter. They sell them for $98/each. Anyone used these?
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Old 07-06-2003, 07:18 AM   #2
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Sorry no but I have used GM's and Pep Boy's rotors and they both suck. They warp in no time.
Also I don't think I would go with drillled rotors on something as heavy as our rides.....I guess I have heard to many storys of cracks between the holes.
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Old 07-06-2003, 12:50 PM   #3
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I was thinking about going with drilled rotors also. I never even thought about the weight!! Most drilled rotors you see are on RICE**!! (Light)
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Old 07-06-2003, 02:51 PM   #4
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What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?

In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur. Baer’s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Zinc washing is then done to provide a barrier, which resists development of surface scales or rust.


From http://www.baer.com/ and I would also check-out www.StainlessSteelBrakes.com too.
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Old 07-06-2003, 05:01 PM   #5
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I have to disagree a little bit on what BaggedC10 said. We have a 99 Tahoe that is VERY heavy and warped rotor after rotor. We already had the performance brake pads on because we got new expensive bling-bling wheels on it & switched to slotted/crossdrilled rotors. The Tahoe now stops faster and has absolutely no fade. Wet braking is better too. Haven't noticed any cracks (fingers crossed). Before the things brakes faded ALOT. I almost hit a telephone pole b/c of this! The way I see it, slotted is the way to go. Seems to work better than crossdrilled. (we have both crossdrilled/slotted rotors b/c the brake place f**ked us over on a bunch of things and this is what they gave us for free) Seems to me the slots clear some of the brake dust creating less wear on the rotors and getting the loose dust out of the way so the whole pad can get grip on the rotor. Clears away water from the rotors 100X better too if that matters.
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Old 07-06-2003, 05:57 PM   #6
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Arrow

I agree with baggedC10,

Someone posted this ? not too long ago and i told them dont waste your money on drilled or slotted rotor's cuz you'll never drive your truck long or fast enough for them to be effective.

It's more of a kool factor than anything else.

Don't get me wrong im shure there's some improvement from there use but it's gonna be so slight your not gonna be able to feel it.

It's like replacing your stock air filter with a K&N they say you'll gain 15HP maybe you will maybe you wont but either way it's not something your gonna feel in the seat. Cuz it's just too minor of an increase.

I'LL say it again save your money for a better up grade unless you have to replace your rotor's and you just want your truck to look kool!
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:24 AM   #7
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The problem I have found with most "performance" rotors for our trucks.......they are just cheap Mexican rotors that have been drilled. If our trucks were raced by a bunch of top-name racers and the stakes were higher someone would develop a nicer rotor.
No big difference except for the holes and maybe a useless plating wash over them.
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Old 07-07-2003, 05:52 PM   #8
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I have crossdrilled and slotted rotors on my 98 and they work great. They cool down quicker than standard rotors and virtually eliminate brake fade. They also improve braking in the rain. Most high performance brake systems (Baer,ssbc,brembo) use them. I have read many tests proving that they outperform standard rotors hands down........even in the same diameter.
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Old 07-07-2003, 08:22 PM   #9
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I'm going to disagree with what I posted a bit. From what I've been told, cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors will make a noticeable difference. Between the improved braking performance and "cool" factor, I would recommend them. BTW, I believe Baer only sells cross-drilled/slotted rotors.
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