1955 Chevy 2nd Series axle swap 4x4

[rano]

I picked up a very clean Arizona 1955 2nd series 3100 pickup. It was converted to 4 wheel drive years ago. Napco want to be. The front axle is a early 60s closed knuckle with a blown pinion. The rear axle is original. It has a divorced transfer case, 4 speed and 307. It has a 4 " lift and new 33x12.5 tires. The drum brakes do not cut it and I would like to go the discs. I am thinking of just swapping out both axles for newer ones with disc brakes, but the new axles are wider. The current axles are 65" front and 62" rear wheel mounting to wheel mounting surface. I can get a set of 3/4 ton Dana 44 front (69") and a 14-bolt that need a little work for $275. Or I can look for a set of 71-72 1/2 ton axles Dana 44 (67.5") and 12-Bolt rear. I like the current look of the truck and am afraid the axle swap will push the tires out too far and look lame. Another possible direction is to use the 3/4 ton axles and get tall narrow snow tires on steel rim and dog dish hub caps to go for the old Napco look. Anybody done this or have thoughs, all are welcome.

[tkeduk8r]

I LOVE your truck.... JMO fix your differntial issue and I would see if there is any way you could cut and weld a new flange on the axle shafts you currently have in order to mount the newer 71-up disks on it... im not a 4x4 guru, but Im sure you could find a D44 cheap enough in a rural boneyard around you to get the donor parts from for the brake swap... other experts will prolly know more than me, but that would be where I would start... Those slots and that stance are just too right to mess with!!!
--Mike

[OrrieG]

Look at my build thread, first post. My 59 has 74 K10 axles with stock wheels the tires are inside the fenders. wheel back set can determine if they will stick out. I wanted it that way to keep the mud, snow, rocks from being kicked up on the cab and bed. If you are going to swap, I would go with 8 lub axles. At the time I did mine in 85 I got a smokin deal on the K10. If I every wear out or blow the 1/2 ton axles I'm upgrading to a 1 ton set up.
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[bajabob]

Rano
That is a super clean ride, looks very straight too. I would go with something similar to what Orrieg was talkin or even track down some Napco stuff (just me). Lots of good guys around here to help.
bb

[OrrieG]

Forgot to mention, the 4x4 forum here has a lot of info on different axle combinations, gearing, if you need to modify the spring perch, etc.

[Gene Sharp]

there is also the possibility
you could save up and get a set of axels custom made to
your width ,but with open nuckles and disk brakes

Gene Sharp

[rano]

I am now thinking of using 73-76 1/2 ton chevy axles (Dana 44 and 12-bolt) as they are better than the 71-72s. Does any one know what the distance from the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface is for both the front and rear? Is it the same as the 3/4 ton axles which I think the front is 69" and the rear I do not know.

[RockTonka]

A 6-lug SF 14B out of a 2WD is around 65.5" IIRC.

[OrrieG]

I have 74 k10 axles. Front measurement from outside of tire to outside of tire is 74". Wheels have 4" recess so hub to hub is 66". Back is 69" outside of tire to outside of tire. Hub to hub is 61". Tires are LT225/75/R16, 7" wide tread, 8" at the widest point of side wall. Here are photos showing relationship of axles to frame.

[rano]

OK, I am back on the project. Just bought a set of 1976 Chevy 1/2 Ton 4x4 axles (Dana 44 and 12-Bolt) with 3.73 gears in good shape. They must be from down south as they are not rusty. The ball joints, tie rod ends and u-joints are all good. Now the bad, someone cut the top of the steering arm studs off where the nuts would be and took off the steering arm and tossed it. In the 55 the stock steering arm would work out perfect as the pitman arm and the stock steering arm would only have 1-1/2" or less difference in height. Where can I find a stock steering arm, stock studs, cones and nuts? Everyone I talk to through them away when they did a lift. Everything new is for a 4" lift. I also need to get the old studs out and not wanting to take the knuckle off as the ball joints are good looks like it is going to be a problem. I also found an original seat that was redone with no rust to replace the ugly green suede 70s not sure what bench seat.

[OrrieG]

I'd post this in the 4x4 forum on this site, I bet someone has some sitting around....or may have if they are getting ready to do a lift. As far as getting the studs out its the same ol' deal. start soaking them really good with wd40, thread buster, etc. drill out the center, get the right size EZ out (available at Sears, do not buy the cheap ones they break), drive it in, tap the housing a little and twist. If it does not come out right away apply a LITTLE heat and try again. Some time it take multiple soaks and trys but the good thing is they are pretty well protected by the arm and nuts. Some times just the drilling will generate enough heat that they will back out. Worst case is to drill and retap them.

[rano]

The studs are out. Found new studs, cones and nuts at Independent4x. Working on finding a stock steering arm 73-78.