Drop Shackles VS Hangers

[mtchevytruck]

I need to drop the rear of my 1977 Bonanza SWB 2". I may tow with it. Wondering weather it would be better to go with the drop shackle or rather the hanger drop? I'm taking in consideration the modification of the bed cross member and keeping the rear suspension as close to stock (including pinion angle) for towing and hauling. Could, and may install rear air shocks to help with hauling.

[baclay9]

I would do the shackles. Way less involved. I used the hangers to do a 2 inch drop on my truck in highschool because my dad didn't want me cutting the cross brace on my bed. Changing that hanger was a pain. Plus it moved my wheel forward in the fender well.
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[mtchevytruck]

Thanks bclay9. I wonder if anyone has had problems as a result of cutting the bed cross brace, and if so if a person could some how strengthen that area back up after cutting? Possibly a piece of 1/4" flat stock spanning the area?

[N2TRUX]

If your capable of welding, take the piece of channel out and use the scrap as filler pieces. That should solve the problem.

[baclay9]

Unless you are planning on hauling boulders in the rear corners of your truck I wouldn't sweat it. You don't have to completely cut the support out, you just have to notch it. I just can't imagine it ever being an issue.
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[mtchevytruck]

baclay9, thanks for info. off the subject. I've been through Tuttle area a couple times back in the late 80's. Did custom combining two diff. seasons. nice area

[Rons86]

Not a big deal to notch the cross member, you do have to cut about 2/3's of it. I have not had any problems with strength. It's a lot easier to mark the area and take the bed completey off though. The only reason I boxed mine was to minimize getting dirt and gunk into the crossmemeber and causing rust.

[slugish]

x2 with the others . mines been cut for 8 years > no problems with heavy loads

[1986swb]

Originally Posted by baclay9

I would do the shackles. Way less involved. I used the hangers to do a 2 inch drop on my truck in highschool because my dad didn't want me cutting the cross brace on my bed. Changing that hanger was a pain. Plus it moved my wheel forward in the fender well.
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I've had no issues with hauling heavy items (except for that rare time I hauled river rocks and my bed was riding on the bumper stops) or any clearance issues. I did 2" drop hangers and 2" drop shackles. The only thing with the hangers is that I removed the bed for easier access to the rivets. Some folks have removed their side gas tanks as well for access. And cutting the cross brace that supports the bed is not a problem. See pics below.

[jitteryguy]

I cut mine , now problem's. like BACLAY9 said, unless you'r gonna be haul'n boulder's you'll never know it's cut, the cut is outside the bed mounts.

[mtchevytruck]

1986swb Thanks for the pics. Looks like you do some nice work.

Any major differences in brand/ quality of the shackles I should look at? Cruising the forums I've seen quite a few different ones, mostly extra holes drilled for additional adjustment options and other holes drilled for weight/looks.

I plan on pulling the bed for either install. My tanks need dropped and removed for cleaning andfuel sending unit work. My next tread hunt will be on prepping and painting the frame and underside of bed, etc.

[baclay9]

Pretty much any of them will be fine. Check the vendors marketplace here for some good deals on lowering stuff. The adjustable ones are for either 1 or 2 inches of drop. Since you are only doing a 2" rear drop this won't really matter to you.
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[DriverDown]

I've been following this thread with some interest as I'd like to level my truck by dropping the rear 2 inches but hate the idea of cutting on the bed to do it. Is there a reason that drop leafs aren't available?

[1986swb]

Originally Posted by mtchevytruck

1986swb Thanks for the pics. Looks like you do some nice work.

Any major differences in brand/ quality of the shackles I should look at? Cruising the forums I've seen quite a few different ones, mostly extra holes drilled for additional adjustment options and other holes drilled for weight/looks.

I plan on pulling the bed for either install. My tanks need dropped and removed for cleaning andfuel sending unit work. My next tread hunt will be on prepping and painting the frame and underside of bed, etc.

I purchased my shackles from LMC mainly because they used black rubber bushings instead of polyurethane. I chose rubber over polyurethane mainly to avoid any squeeking issues (and I did not want to constantly lubricate the bushing). There are urethane and polygraphite bushings which don't squeek and provide less deflection than rubber. Keep in mind, the deflection is not a big deal (to me). With my upgraded swaybars and shocks, the truck's body roll is minimal without sacrificing ride quality. On a different note, I changed most of my suspension parts using black rubber, except for my swaybar bushings where I used urethane (does not squeek) from Moog. You can go with polyurethane bushings as well (they do not squeek as well) but cost a little more. Check out PST for the poly bushings and suspension items: http://www.p-s-t.com/suspension.aspx

Some of the companies offering drop suspension kits include Classic Parts of America (great OEM, NOS, replacement items, and customer service), DJM, McGaughys, to name a few reputable choices.

And as Baclay 9 noted, most of the shackles are adjustable 1" or 2" so you have a choice when mounting them.

I did a 2/5" front spindle drop and a 4" rear hanger & shackle drop. Very mild drop but I can still carry a load in the truck. Before you do any suspension modifications, I suggest you figure out, if you haven't already done so, exactly what your objectives are for the truck (improve handling, looks, hauler, want to be unique, etc.). This way you'll spend less time, money and headaches on parts and changes. Hindsight is always 20/20.

Click on the link below my signature line to redirect you to additional pics of my suspension.

[1986swb]

Originally Posted by DriverDown

I've been following this thread with some interest as I'd like to level my truck by dropping the rear 2 inches but hate the idea of cutting on the bed to do it. Is there a reason that drop leafs aren't available?

New drop leaf springs are available but are pricey for a pair. The other less expensive alternative is to remove a leaf or two on the existing springs. Keep in mind you will lose the firmness in the rear -- but it'll look good.

[Slonaker]

Originally Posted by DriverDown

I've been following this thread with some interest as I'd like to level my truck by dropping the rear 2 inches but hate the idea of cutting on the bed to do it. Is there a reason that drop leafs aren't available?

They are available from Western Chassis. I have had them on my truck for 5 years or so. They ride well, and lower the back about 4 inches. You lose some hauling capability, though. There aren't a lot of leaves, and there is no overload spring.

Slonaker

[mtchevytruck]

Originally Posted by 1986swb

Before you do any suspension modifications, I suggest you figure out, if you haven't already done so, exactly what your objectives are for the truck (improve handling, looks, hauler, want to be unique, etc.). This way you'll spend less time, money and headaches on parts and changes. Hindsight is always 20/20.

Thanks again for all the useful info.

My problem, as with many basket case projects, is this truck has been modified by several different owners before me and I'm not 100% what I'm starting with. I do intend to haul mild loads and pull a trailer every now and then. I was told, and by the naked eye it looks like, the front was dropped with 2" lowering springs ( lots of spacers in the upper control arm to get into align). Has a front sway bar. PO also eluded to the rear being dropped also but I can't see how. Running 15"x10" wheels so I'm flush with the outside of the body or slightly past, so I can't go too low with existing wheel package or they'll rub the fender lips. Front has 2 1/4" from tire to fender and rear has 4 1/2" from tire to fender. More rake than I like from a cosmetic stand point.

So my weak mind tells me drop the rear 2" along with air shocks to give me some adjustment if and when needed. Some day maybe a rear sway bar. Front end is tired though and I'll need to replace all the wear items in the suspension before I can consider beefing up the rear.

[DriverDown]

Originally Posted by Slonaker

They are available from Western Chassis. I have had them on my truck for 5 years or so. They ride well, and lower the back about 4 inches. You lose some hauling capability, though. There aren't a lot of leaves, and there is no overload spring.

Slonaker

Thanks to both of you - the Western Chassic leafs look nice, I just wish they were available for a 2" leveling drop! Looks like I'm stuck with cutting the truck or possibly modifying the stock spring.