how to flat black my 65

[FresnoFleetside]

I'm welding my rollpan on this weekend (at least I'm planning to), and since I'm gonna have to do some painting anyways, I'm thinking about going with a temporary flat black and entering it in a local rat rod car/truck show next month.

It's just a temp paint job, but I'd still like it to look smooth because "temporary" can turn in to a long time when it comes to my projects.

I've rattle-can-primered a few vehicles in the past, without putting to much effort into it, and it's came out alright. All I ever did was wash it, mask it, and spray it.

I was wondering if anybody had any tips on technique, since budget is an issue, I will still be using rattle-cans. So do I need to sand the paint first? Wet-sand? How many coats? How many cans? What kind of paint/primer? Should I clear coat afterwards, or will that make it glossy? Rattle can clear coat ok? and how will this paint job effect the next ghetto paint job I do later on down the road... lol ...

I know that's a lot of questions, I appreciate any help. Thanks for reading.

-Ray

[FresnoFleetside]

Here's a couple pics of the truck how it looks now...

[PGSigns]

I was reading a post on here a while back where he painted the truck with satan black and use a short knapp roller. It looked real good.
Jimmy

[markeb01]

Most rattle can primers are porous allowing rust to form under your new primer job.

You may want to take a look at this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=432915

Blitz Black or Rustoleum satin or flat is an inexpensive, durable way to go but it will all have to come off if you want to respray with hardened automotive paint in the future. The roller paint job has a place in the world, but it is very labor intensive and isn't the best plan if you're looking for a flat or satin finish. I you really want to lay own a nice paint job some time in the future, your best bet is to paint the truck with black epoxy primer. It makes a great base coat, doesn't allow rust to start, and bonds so well to bare metal it is recommended as a base under body filler. It also holds up for years with minimal fading.

[FresnoFleetside]

Thanks for the replies. So I can get the black epoxy primer in a rattlecan, and I won't have to strip it before my next home paint job? Any idea on costs, or how many cans to buy? Thanks

-Ray

p.s. no clearcoat?

[jimmydean]

Flat black is a ***** to keep clean, I would go satin using the John Deere Blitz Black.

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by FresnoFleetside

Thanks for the replies. So I can get the black epoxy primer in a rattlecan, and I won't have to strip it before my next home paint job? Any idea on costs, or how many cans to buy? Thanks

-Ray

p.s. no clearcoat?

I'm not aware of any epoxy primer available in a spray can because it's a hardened paint, meaning it requires a catalyst be mixed in before spraying. Can't do that in a rattle can. PPG DPLF90 for example is a flat black epoxy primer, but requires spray equipment. Anything that comes in a rattle can will need to be removed before catalyzed auto paint can go on, or there's a good chance it will either wrinkle or liquify the old paint and slide off.

If you must do a rattle can job and want it to hold up for a reasonably long time, I'd recommend the Blitz Black, Rustoleum, or Tractor Supply satin black. They are very durable and easy to maintain.

[kiknrocks]

If your looking for somthing cheap that looks good and in a rattle can use krylon satin black. paint one panel at a time so it lays on smooth with less zebra stripes. Its nice paint and you will be happy with the results.

[oem4me]

You've asked lots of valid questions, and some require straightforward answers. The most notable is that yes, this paint job will likely affect ALL future paint jobs, unless like Markeb said, it's removed first.
So, if there is to be any hope of longevity, you must make sure it will stick. THOROUGHLY CLEAN the existing paint with light solvent to remove any wax, oil, silicone, or whatever else might be on it. Then, AFTER the cleaning, scuff it up to give the surface some tooth. Wet sand, scotchbrite, steel wool...something should be used to dull down the surface or your new paint won't have anything to hang on to. Don't scratch it up though, just take off the gloss.
Hose it down (no soap) and blow it off well. Water is not your friend here. A little drop or small trail of water under freshly laid paint just plain kills.
Spray the paint. I would suggest borrowing an air compressor and buying a cheap, swap-meet type gravity fed gun (cup on top) to do the job. The $25 spent on the gun will be saved when you buy paint by the quart as opposed to twenty-something $5 cans of paint. The difference is huge. It's like mowing a lawn with a power mower or using a pair of house scissors to do the same job.
Lastly, go satin for sure, not flat. Thin it down a little and spray thinner coats till you get used to it. For the last coat, put it on slightly heavier and let it be.

[RollinKaos]

I went over my entire truck with a green stripper sponge from Wal Mart.went over the surface with some acetone to clean it up . I I laid a couple of coats of black rattle can primer and then went with about 3 coats of Rustoluem satin black. It has held up well over the last 2 years for me . I have less than 50.00 in my paint job. Nice thing is touch up is easy and the truck cleans up quickly.

[kieth]

One can go to a PPG store and buy any type of enamel 27.00 per Qt plus the hardner buy the thinner to go with it and a $15.00 harbor freight spray gun, the pros at the paint store can help you and the results will be much longer lasting than the spray cans. Remember all of the work is in the prep, if you are really doing the body work correctly why do all the work and then do a crappy job on the finish step. I am not saying you cannot do the black primer look, just do it so it lasts, why do it half as@

[1/2Dozen]

I painted mine with a gallon of Low Gloss Valspar Implement Paint. Had great coverage after two coats but had product left over so I sprayed a 3rd. Read label and mix it with their reducer. During drying time it does have a stinky odor but it goes away within a week. I would recommend mixing in some hardner as well. Check label for mixing tips.
http://www.valsparglobal.com/val/res...alspar_imp.jsp

Its very durable and I drive it year round including all amounts of snow.

[FresnoFleetside]

Thanks for the responses. Good point on just buying a harbor freight gun, I didn't realize how inexpensive they were. I figured I'd have to buy a compressor and drop a couple hundred on a gun. It looks like everybody seems to agree on satin as apposed to flat, so I'll definitely go that route.

I was thinking rattlecan just to save money, but I really don't want to have to take it off later, so I think it'll be worth putting a little more into this paint job even if it is temporary.

Thanks

-Ray

P.S. Stay tuned for questions on how to use bondo, or other dent fillers (something else I dont know anything about)...lol

[FresnoFleetside]

oh, and nice looking truck 1/2 dozen, that's the exact look I'm going for

[revjim]

can anyone recommend a good flat black at the Auto Paint store?

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by FresnoFleetside

Here's a couple pics of the truck how it looks now...

Your existing paint looks pretty good from the photos you posted. Maybe it's just me, and I will catch hell for this I am sure, but rattle can black trucks are everywhere now adays. Unless you plan on doing a top notch satin job like Markeb01 did, I would say leave it as is.

[rideblue00]

I agree with lakeroadster. Find a can that closely matches what you have now. Otherwise you gotta lotta work you dont really need to do.

[FresnoFleetside]

Lakeroadster and rideblue00, I appreciate the input, and eventually I plan on having a "goodguys" style custom paint job, but the body has a long way to go before that.

But there's a rockabilly show coming up next month id like to enter it in, and I wouldnt mind rollin around flat black until I can get some more things dialed in on the truck.

The paint job I have now is one of those "good from far, far from good" paint jobs, that somebody slapped on just to try to sell it for more. If you see it in person it has orange peel like crazy, and even a few drip/runs. It's pretty bad, lol. And I personally hate the color.

But thanks again for you opinion, if it was a nicer paint job, I would try to match it.

-Ray

[grayharville]

Hey man, I say go for the satin black. If you wanna see a budget satin paint job just look at my 70s build thread in my sig. I have less than 100 bucks in my paint job and its held up for over a year and looks great. Page 5 has best pics.

[FresnoFleetside]

If anybody is interested, I got my rollpan fitted and tacked tonight, and plan on welding it out tomorrow. I'm starting a new thread asking for tips on that project.

-Ray

[FresnoFleetside]

as you can tell, I'm not the best welder, but I'm pretty happy with my hundred dollar harbor freight wire fed welder I got for christmas.

Grayharville, thanks, I'm gonna check out ur paintjob right now....

-Ray

[grayharville]

Get you some old scrap steel and start practicing. I started off with a 25 year old stick welder, some 6011 rod, and a couple pieces of square tubing. Practice makes perfect man.

[Chevy Fleetside]

I was thinking about going with this at first. The kits are $150 for the gal but at least I know I have something decent on the truck. They have many other colors also. http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx