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Old 03-10-2011, 12:18 PM   #1
abrahamseven
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Heater Switch on 72

Ok. my heater/AC switch just blows on high. I was going to install a new switch from classic truck parts but it fell apart before I got it plugged in. So could this be the heater/AC resister or relay? That glove box is a bugger to get out to get to the resister , the relay is not bad to get at. If anybody has any ideas I sure will listen.I put an ohm meter to both switches before the new fell apart and they both tested the same.

steve
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:36 PM   #2
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

sounds like a bad relay or connection. jiggle the connection at the relay with the fan switch at a lower setting and see if it kicks in.
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Old 03-10-2011, 01:42 PM   #3
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Lightbulb Re: Heater Switch on 72

Look at the wire connections on the switch. If they are melted then it's the connector.
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Old 03-10-2011, 02:24 PM   #4
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

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You don't really say if you tried another switch or got the new one put back together. Did you test the old switch after you got it out?

The resistor cuts the speed down so if it only works on high and you've eliminated the switch I would suspect the resistor.. Beware! I have been wrong before...

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Old 03-10-2011, 04:18 PM   #5
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

A usual tell-tale sign on a GM product that the relay is bad is that it only works on high. Could also be the switch or resistor, but if the switch is not melted, I would suspect the relay first.
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:41 PM   #6
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

the relay is ONLY used on high, so your relay is fine. (this is the norm on all vehicles)
Your new replacement switch broke upon installing it? They're sending you another one right?
It could be the switch/plug (as mentioned above, look for melting) or (more likely) the resistor
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:44 AM   #7
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

Quote:
Originally Posted by abrahamseven View Post
Ok. my heater/AC switch just blows on high. I was going to install a new switch from classic truck parts but it fell apart before I got it plugged in. So could this be the heater/AC resister or relay? That glove box is a bugger to get out to get to the resister , the relay is not bad to get at. If anybody has any ideas I sure will listen.I put an ohm meter to both switches before the new fell apart and they both tested the same.

steve
Steve, was the switch a repro? Are they sending you a new one?

Not sure what all you have going there, but the original GM A/C fan switch, 3857992 is still available as well as the resistor, 3929055. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:55 AM   #8
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

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Originally Posted by Longhorn Man View Post
the relay is ONLY used on high, so your relay is fine. (this is the norm on all vehicles)
Your new replacement switch broke upon installing it? They're sending you another one right?
It could be the switch/plug (as mentioned above, look for melting) or (more likely) the resistor
I have seen a lot of GM vehicles (mostly the next variation of the relay say mid 70's-late 80's) fail the relay and the result is that it only works on high. I borrowed this from a Google search.

"With a switch-controlled motor, power from the fan speed control switch is routed through a “resistor block” on its way to the blower motor. The resistor block usually contains a series of resistors (three or four) that reduce the current and voltage that reaches the blower motor. When the driver chooses low fan speed, power is routed through all the resistors in the resistor block. This creates maximum resistance so the blower motor will turn slowly at its minimum speed. When the driver chooses an intermediate fan speed, power is routed through fewer resistors and the motor spins faster. At high speed, power may bypass the resistor block altogether and go straight to the blower motor causing it to run at maximum speed."

On high speed you get straight 12v through the normally open part of the relay, on any other speed you get through the relay and then you get power through the resistor(s) to supply the fan motor

I may be wrong, but that is my experience.
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Last edited by MARKDTN; 03-15-2011 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:32 PM   #9
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

if you have an A/C truck, go unplug the relay and tell us what speed(s) don't work. I'll bet everything I own all that happens is high goes out. I'll even throw in my income tax return and my next 3 years pay.
Wrenching on cars, light duty trucks, med duty trucks, heavy duty trucks, heavy duty equipment, army equpment... I have never seen the relay used for lower speeds. I'm sure something out there has a relay for each speed, so I won't say never, but I have yet to see one myself.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:39 PM   #10
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

I fully agree with Longhorn Man on this. The relay is for high speed only
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:10 PM   #11
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

I'll be looking for a large check.

I did try this on my '83 K20 with factory a/c. Everything died. As it will when you remove the only source for power to the fan motor. Look at the wiring diagram for an '83 (Figure 1B-14 on page Air Conditioning 19 of the 1983 Light Duty Truck Shop Manual) or a '72 (page 1A-41 of the 1972 Truck Service Manual). The purple wire that goes to the relay is the power source for the motor. If you unplug the relay, the fan can't work. Non-a/c truck is different but that is not the original question.

Did the original poster get his issue worked out?
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:05 AM   #12
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

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Originally Posted by Longhorn Man View Post
... I'm sure something out there has a relay for each speed, so I won't say never, but I have yet to see one myself.
Just wanted to address this to make sure I didn't confuse anyone. This is on an A/C truck only. There is not a relay for each speed. The relay sends 12v battery power to the motor in high speed mode (relay normally open side) from the orange wire. The high speed wire on the fan switch just closes the relay. In any other speed, power goes through the fan switch and then the resistor(s) to lower the speed by reducing the voltage then the other post (normally closed side) of the relay. In either case, power comes from the relay to the fan motor through the purple wire.

Please correct me if I am wrong.
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Last edited by MARKDTN; 03-15-2011 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:49 AM   #13
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

ok... I misspoke.
The relay doesn't control the lower speeds, but acts as a bus bar.
The actual relay only controls high.
A BAD relay that is plugged in will not prevent the lower speeds from working, but will prevent high from working.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:10 AM   #14
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

Thank guys for all the information, I have learned a lot on this forum. You all have some good info . It looks like the relay is the problem, Now ,I have to remove my glove box, not an easy task without ruining it, But what the hey, I like to keep the truck parts suppliers in business, Thanks again guys I appreciate it. FYI the switch I bought from Classic Truck was a generic Taiwan and while I was testing it with my ohm meter one of the wire connecting tabs fell off. I called CT and the gave me credit and told me not to send it back. They treat me ok just wish the quality was better.

steve
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:34 PM   #15
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

Quote:
Originally Posted by Longhorn Man View Post
ok... I misspoke.
The relay doesn't control the lower speeds, but acts as a bus bar.
The actual relay only controls high.
A BAD relay that is plugged in will not prevent the lower speeds from working, but will prevent high from working.

In my experience it will. I don't know why, but from what I have seen they fail and only high speed works. I guess the contacts on the closed side get dirty or burnt, don't know, can't explain it. Maybe it's the higher resistance on lower speeds encourages corrosion on the contact? But I have seen more bad relays than bad resistors. And again from what I have seen, only high speed works then.
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:31 PM   #16
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Re: Heater Switch on 72

on the two trucks I've had with A/C, they both had rusted out relays that were literally falling apart. The 'can' or body was actually missing on one of them. They both worked on all positions but high.
On late model stuff at work, we almost never replace relays for the blowers, but we replace a resistor at least one a month, usually more than that.
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