Newbie- Question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Ruckus · 07-14-2003, 02:30 PM

Hi everyone.

I'd been looking for a truck to restore for over a year....finally bought one about a month ago. It's a 70 cst lwb. I wanted one I could drive home and around town while I fixed it up. I've been replacing more critical items so far and while underneath it replacing a leaking trans. pan and gasket, saw what I think is the center support bearing broken. It looks like it was replaced not all that long ago (cleaner looking). My questions are: It wasn't broken when I got it, so should I replace it now- I still haven't filled the trans yet, if that makes it easier; and can I get this at an auto parts store, or from the likes of lmc (about 30 min. away). The truck isn't my d.d., so that's not a problem. Thanks for any advice. Here's a pic

Ruckus · 07-14-2003, 02:35 PM

Here's the truck if that helps

jhwkns · 07-14-2003, 03:13 PM

First of all. Welcome to the board!
Usually when a carrier bearing fails such as yours did there are most likely other problems with your driveline. Take your complete driveshaft to a shop and have it checked out. It is well worth the investment. Good luck with your truck. John

rambler · 07-14-2003, 03:33 PM

Welcome to the board as well, I would agree, there could be something else wrong that caused the damage to the bearing, doenst look like normal wear-n-tear

Longhorn Man · 07-14-2003, 03:42 PM

Again, welcome to our home. (I call it home anyways)
I also agree about the damage. Seeing that it is a new piece and it is already dead, something else has to be doing it. Those things can last 30 years. (with some luck...but not unheard of)
Before you take the shaft to a shop, check all 3 U-joints for stiffness,a dn then look ar the rear axle to see if it is crooked or had just been installed. (new hardwear or obviously re-used stuff) If the pinion angle is wrong, it can do this, even though it would be more likely to blow a U-joint first.
Save future agervation and replace all 3 joints while it is out.

As for LMC, many of us on here have had very bad luck with them. You do have the advantage of looking at the part and compairing it with the original so you have way more control over it than us, but be aware of there many inferior parts.

Ruckus · 07-14-2003, 04:04 PM

Thanks for the heads-up on other problems. What's better to do- take the driveshaft out to take it to a shop, or drive the truck over and have it checked out? I think the rear axle isn't quite centered- could that be a possible cause?
Thanks again

Hotrod70C10 · 07-14-2003, 05:48 PM

Mine looked like that, After I bounced the driveshaft off of a rock at the lake!

Class of 69 · 07-14-2003, 07:24 PM

Taking it out allows a driveshaft shop to check it for straightness, replace u-joints, and carrier bearing, and BALANCE it. It appears by the pic that this has happened before. It could just be a cheap bearing, and failed prematurely, but like the others have said, it really should be checked over carefully before reinstallation. You could replace the u-joints youself before taking it to the shop, and save some money on labor. If you do change them yourself, be sure to get good quality,Heavy Duty u-joints, as the cheap ones will fail. They should also be greaseable. Hope this helps, and WELCOME to the board.

krue · 07-14-2003, 10:32 PM

Welcome to the board from South Mississippi!

Longhorn Man · 07-14-2003, 11:05 PM

Class of 69, personally, I prefer the non-greasable ones.
The hole for the zerk fitting creates a weak spot (which doesn't really matter onless you have butt loads of torque...but worth mentioning), and I figure if the stock O.E. sealed units lasted 140K on my wife's old S-10 blazer (4.6 vortec)...then I am sold on them. They actually out lasted the rest of the truck.
Plus, I am lazy and hate messing with the grease gun, and in reality, this is one place that is commonly skipped at jiffy lube, and they won't even blow smoke up your tail pipe, they'll flat out tell you.
NOTE...Jiffy lube is just an example...by Jiffy lube, I mean pretty much all oil chainge places

07-14-2003, 02:30 PM	#1
Ruckus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lawrence, KS Posts: 127	Newbie- Question Hi everyone. I'd been looking for a truck to restore for over a year....finally bought one about a month ago. It's a 70 cst lwb. I wanted one I could drive home and around town while I fixed it up. I've been replacing more critical items so far and while underneath it replacing a leaking trans. pan and gasket, saw what I think is the center support bearing broken. It looks like it was replaced not all that long ago (cleaner looking). My questions are: It wasn't broken when I got it, so should I replace it now- I still haven't filled the trans yet, if that makes it easier; and can I get this at an auto parts store, or from the likes of lmc (about 30 min. away). The truck isn't my d.d., so that's not a problem. Thanks for any advice. Here's a pic

07-14-2003, 03:13 PM	#3
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	First of all. Welcome to the board! Usually when a carrier bearing fails such as yours did there are most likely other problems with your driveline. Take your complete driveshaft to a shop and have it checked out. It is well worth the investment. Good luck with your truck. John __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

07-14-2003, 03:33 PM	#4
rambler MOVE OVER Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Warrensburg, MO Posts: 5,470	Welcome to the board as well, I would agree, there could be something else wrong that caused the damage to the bearing, doenst look like normal wear-n-tear __________________ No matter where you are..... There you are... Buckaroo Banzi

07-14-2003, 05:48 PM	#7
Hotrod70C10 Low & Slow Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1,047	Mine looked like that, After I bounced the driveshaft off of a rock at the lake! __________________ 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop

07-14-2003, 07:24 PM	#8
Class of 69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Stillwater MN Posts: 1,166	Taking it out allows a driveshaft shop to check it for straightness, replace u-joints, and carrier bearing, and BALANCE it. It appears by the pic that this has happened before. It could just be a cheap bearing, and failed prematurely, but like the others have said, it really should be checked over carefully before reinstallation. You could replace the u-joints youself before taking it to the shop, and save some money on labor. If you do change them yourself, be sure to get good quality,Heavy Duty u-joints, as the cheap ones will fail. They should also be greaseable. Hope this helps, and WELCOME to the board. __________________ 69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still..

07-14-2003, 02:35 PM	#2
Ruckus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lawrence, KS Posts: 127	Here's the truck if that helps

07-14-2003, 03:42 PM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Again, welcome to our home. (I call it home anyways) I also agree about the damage. Seeing that it is a new piece and it is already dead, something else has to be doing it. Those things can last 30 years. (with some luck...but not unheard of) Before you take the shaft to a shop, check all 3 U-joints for stiffness,a dn then look ar the rear axle to see if it is crooked or had just been installed. (new hardwear or obviously re-used stuff) If the pinion angle is wrong, it can do this, even though it would be more likely to blow a U-joint first. Save future agervation and replace all 3 joints while it is out. As for LMC, many of us on here have had very bad luck with them. You do have the advantage of looking at the part and compairing it with the original so you have way more control over it than us, but be aware of there many inferior parts.

07-14-2003, 04:04 PM	#6
Ruckus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lawrence, KS Posts: 127	Thanks for the heads-up on other problems. What's better to do- take the driveshaft out to take it to a shop, or drive the truck over and have it checked out? I think the rear axle isn't quite centered- could that be a possible cause? Thanks again

07-14-2003, 10:32 PM	#9
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Welcome to the board from South Mississippi! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

07-14-2003, 11:05 PM	#10
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Class of 69, personally, I prefer the non-greasable ones. The hole for the zerk fitting creates a weak spot (which doesn't really matter onless you have butt loads of torque...but worth mentioning), and I figure if the stock O.E. sealed units lasted 140K on my wife's old S-10 blazer (4.6 vortec)...then I am sold on them. They actually out lasted the rest of the truck. Plus, I am lazy and hate messing with the grease gun, and in reality, this is one place that is commonly skipped at jiffy lube, and they won't even blow smoke up your tail pipe, they'll flat out tell you. NOTE...Jiffy lube is just an example...by Jiffy lube, I mean pretty much all oil chainge places



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