1972 Cheyenne Lwb becomes Swb

[timbojb]

New to the site and also new to the 67-72 models so I'm sure I'll have questions. I bought a 1972 lwb c10 w/ factory air, 350 w/ 4barrell, ps, and pb for 1100. It's pretty solid overall. It was in an accident that was never repaired so it's got a bad rocker on the passenger side and an unrepairable passenger outer fender and some bedside damage. The cab corners and floorboard are very solid.

At the same time a friend of mine and I bought a 1970 swb parts truck for 400. We plan on doing a frame swap and selling (or scrapping) the rest.

Future Plans include:
swb frame swap
all new suspension
new exhaust
some type of modern stereo system
bucket seats
center console
possibly tbi fuel injection
brothers one piece window kit
power windows
power door locks
cruise control
new wheels and tires

and I'm considering dropping a newer 5spd chevy truck transmission in... but I might get lazy.

[timbojb]

I guess I didn't mention that I've already started... so here's some pics.

Pic 1: Dash before tear down
Pic 2: My brothers tuning the carb
Pic 3: Seat height mock up (2 bricks high)
Pic 4: Passenger side rocker panel rot
Pic 5: Erasing gm's trim mounting method

Questions welcome.

[Blue'72]

Welcome to the site! Excellent project you have there. I'm doing the same thing with my truck, lwb to snb. Feel free to ask questions as there is SOOOO much knowledge on here!

[timbojb]

Thanks blue72... your right about it being a similar project... low budget all the way

Btw I should have the other truck down to the rolling chassis next weekend... so lots of pics when that happens. I plan on using a rust converter on the rust thats left after the wire brush since I'm going low budget and all... then I'll get at it with some black rustoleum on top. Anyone know of a good tannic acid rust converter?

[Blue'72]

That's exactly what I'm doing on the back half of my frame. It was a lot more rusty than the front was.. I wire wheeled all the areas that I could get to and then sprayed the whole thing down with Super Clean and then pressure washed it real good. Then I dried it with my leaf blower and sprayed it with a rust converter I got from Lowe's. I'm trying to think of who makes it, but I'll have to look at the can when I get home. I bought two cans (about $5 each) and they covered everything I needed to do real good. It sprays on like water but within 24 hours all rust is turned black and ready for paint. Rust Mort sells for $15 for a small bottle and works the same or better, but this stuff in a spray can goes a long way. I'm either going to spray it next with the Rustoleum or I might brush on some Hammerite first and then spray it. I'll see what it looks like when I get home and decide. Another good way to remove rust is with osphoric acid, but you have to be careful not to get any on your concrete...

Low buck is the only way I can go!!

[timbojb]

Would Muriatic acid work?... it's basically just hydrochloric acid with a buffer. Anyways I found this article on rust converters encouraging. http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/rustconv.html I just ordered a gallon from here http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Con...on-P40C10.aspx

Oh and I took a picture of the donor truck... If anyone lives near dallas it has a shaved firewall non ac cab... I'm selling for the price of scrap metal.

[72BlckButy]

Great looking project, and to the board from Mid-MO!!!

[Blue'72]

Muriatic acid will remove the rust, but will cause the metal to re-rust immediately. It's handy because you can buy it cheap at Home Depot, Lowes, or a hardware store, and the "new" rust can be removed easier with sanding or wire wheel. I bought a gallon from Lowes and with a few soakings on that rusty hood, I was left with, a rusty hood.. I found a small (tiny) bottle of some rust remover, again from Lowes that contained phosphoric acid and it removed everything that the muriatic acid created. Unfortunately by that time, I was left with really thin metal that didn't want to hold its shape. On a frame I would be more inclined to "convert" the rust rather than remove it altogether, unless I was creating a show piece. You may get other opinions as well that I would also be interested in hearing. Just be careful when using this acid and use eye protection..

Oh, and that spray on rust converter I got from Lowes was by Loctite. I hope my newfound knowledge is helpful for you!

[timbojb]

Yeah I agree on the advantages of rust conversion.... My original plan was sandblasting and powdercoating. I got a really good quote of $450 and it included pickup, sandblasting, powdercoating, and delivery but I can still do it cheaper and it should be a good durable finish. The only reason I wondered about the muriatic acid is I have boxes of it in the shed.

Edit: Thanks 72blckbuty, I love your truck

[ShowSS12]

why not use POR-15?

[Blue'72]

why not use POR-15?

Because, that would be cheaper, easier, and last 10 times longer.. I didn't expect to go as far as I did with mine, but in hindsight I should have gone that route. Would a rust converter be really necessary with POR-15?

Sorry timbojb. I don't mean to hijack your thread.

[timbojb]

Originally Posted by Blue'72

Because, that would be cheaper, easier, and last 10 times longer.. I didn't expect to go as far as I did with mine, but in hindsight I should have gone that route. Would a rust converter be really necessary with POR-15?

Sorry timbojb. I don't mean to hijack your thread.

Not a problem... It was on topic Anyways as far por 15 goes... it works great, I just think the rust converter makes more sense, por 15 seals it really well, rust converters turn iron oxide into iron tannate, which is stable and then seals the structure underneath... adding rustoleum on top of that is overkill but it will give it an even color i guess... plus I already bought it sooo...

Edit* rust converter probably wouldn't be necessary with por 15... and it might mess up the 3 part process

[timbojb]

Random out of order pics

[timbojb]

I just got the gallon of rust converter from the ups guy... and last night i hauled the frame to my place... which sucked because it wouldn't fit on the trailer with the wheels on. Anyways more pics soon, I don't have to go to work again after this weekend until next wednesday.

[my67chevytruck]

Well...... Get to converting....

[timbojb]

Pics of the swb frame

[tatman]

I'm also new to the site and have a simmilar project it a 1969 LWB also but I'm going to be shortning the frame and shortning the box any suggestions, messurments and ideas on where to start.

[RCbowtie69]

Welcome ,hey from N.C., you have something to work with,keep pictures coming & keep the progress going forward,keep on truckin''