Door openings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

REVS · 03-27-2011, 08:15 PM

Are the any specs. Or dimensions from the a-pillar to the b-pillar.
I need to do some floor repairs and what to set every thing with braces before i start.

kilomanjaro · 03-27-2011, 08:18 PM

I would highly suggest that if you are doing any floor or rocker repairs that you install the hardtop. That should keep your pillars aligned properly while you are welding in new metal.
Hope this helps.
John

REVS · 03-27-2011, 08:23 PM

I will try to bolt the top on first. I have never had a top bolted down. I seem to be missing what ever clips the top to the windsheild frame though.

Bentblazer · 03-27-2011, 08:35 PM

This might help: but as said bolt top on first

REVS · 03-27-2011, 08:37 PM

Thats perfect thanks guys!

vtblazer · 04-01-2011, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bentblazer

This might help: but as said bolt top on first

Good reference pic but incorrect dimension's.
The lower door opening measurement is wrong.

vtblazer · 04-01-2011, 06:42 AM

Unmolested AZ tub, all original sheet metal.

Measurement land on easy to locate reference points.

Bentblazer · 04-01-2011, 08:03 AM

Good catch VT, not sure where I found this but I know it was on here somewhere. If I would have looked a little closer I don't think there would be 3in difference between that mea. and the one just above! Might see if I can fix it with your meas.

vtblazer · 04-01-2011, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bentblazer

Good catch VT, not sure where I found this but I know it was on here somewhere. If I would have looked a little closer I don't think there would be 3in difference between that mea. and the one just above! Might see if I can fix it with your meas.

No prob, it's from Rust Parts (I believe) he posted it quite awhile ago.
I think we discussed it deeper into his thread but it never got changed by the looks.

If you can change it, it's definetly a great reference pic.

REVS · 04-01-2011, 10:18 PM

Thanks vt, that original bottom number didn't seem right. Those pictures are great and easy to read.

DURRTY · 04-02-2011, 10:46 PM

Definitely put and keep the top on while you are cutting up the floor.

Its been quite some time since I have posted but I saw this and maybe I can help.

Check out this post, and post #54 and #55

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=241695&page=3

It works, and works well.
only referring to the X brace, nothing else in there.

I hacked my dash up to do this myself, but you dont have to.

As long as your not taking it off the frame a lighter duty turnbuckle and maybe a piece of 1/8"x2x2 angle will work.

It can be bolted to the top set of door hinge holes rather than cutting the dash.

The bottom part can bolted to the one hole near bottom rear corner and or tacked(this is what I did)

I think every single blazer will be a little different so dont hold those measurements to a real tight tolerance, putting the doors and top on then looking at how it all lines up works better.

A worn out body mount will throw it all off too..

hope this is somewhat helpfull

03-27-2011, 08:15 PM	#1
REVS Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Port Richey Fl. Posts: 11	Door openings Are the any specs. Or dimensions from the a-pillar to the b-pillar. I need to do some floor repairs and what to set every thing with braces before i start.

03-27-2011, 08:18 PM	#2
kilomanjaro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: From Kansas now in Palmer, Alaska Posts: 807	Re: Door openings I would highly suggest that if you are doing any floor or rocker repairs that you install the hardtop. That should keep your pillars aligned properly while you are welding in new metal. Hope this helps. John __________________ 63 Buick Wildcat 425 72 Chevy Blazer CST 72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne 00 Ford F-350 Super Duty 7.3L 09 Dodge Challenger SRT-8 10 Ford Expedition Limited

03-27-2011, 08:23 PM	#3
REVS Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Port Richey Fl. Posts: 11	Re: Door openings I will try to bolt the top on first. I have never had a top bolted down. I seem to be missing what ever clips the top to the windsheild frame though.

03-27-2011, 08:35 PM	#4
Bentblazer Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Rolla Mo. Posts: 667	Re: Door openings This might help: but as said bolt top on first Attached Images __________________ "85" Monte Carlo SS "71" K5 (SOLD) "64" Chevelle 1930 Chevy two door rat Last edited by Bentblazer; 03-27-2011 at 08:36 PM.

04-01-2011, 06:42 AM	#7
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,537	Re: Door openings Unmolested AZ tub, all original sheet metal. Measurement land on easy to locate reference points. Attached Images Last edited by vtblazer; 04-01-2011 at 06:44 AM.

03-27-2011, 08:37 PM	#5
REVS Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Port Richey Fl. Posts: 11	Re: Door openings Thats perfect thanks guys!

04-01-2011, 08:03 AM	#8
Bentblazer Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Rolla Mo. Posts: 667	Re: Door openings Good catch VT, not sure where I found this but I know it was on here somewhere. If I would have looked a little closer I don't think there would be 3in difference between that mea. and the one just above! Might see if I can fix it with your meas. __________________ "85" Monte Carlo SS "71" K5 (SOLD) "64" Chevelle 1930 Chevy two door rat Last edited by Bentblazer; 04-01-2011 at 08:04 AM.

04-01-2011, 10:18 PM	#10
REVS Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Port Richey Fl. Posts: 11	Re: Door openings Thanks vt, that original bottom number didn't seem right. Those pictures are great and easy to read. Last edited by REVS; 04-01-2011 at 10:19 PM.

04-02-2011, 10:46 PM	#11
DURRTY USMC Join Date: May 2007 Location: SLc,UT Posts: 300	Re: Door openings Definitely put and keep the top on while you are cutting up the floor. Its been quite some time since I have posted but I saw this and maybe I can help. Check out this post, and post #54 and #55 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=241695&page=3 It works, and works well. only referring to the X brace, nothing else in there. I hacked my dash up to do this myself, but you dont have to. As long as your not taking it off the frame a lighter duty turnbuckle and maybe a piece of 1/8"x2x2 angle will work. It can be bolted to the top set of door hinge holes rather than cutting the dash. The bottom part can bolted to the one hole near bottom rear corner and or tacked(this is what I did) I think every single blazer will be a little different so dont hold those measurements to a real tight tolerance, putting the doors and top on then looking at how it all lines up works better. A worn out body mount will throw it all off too.. hope this is somewhat helpfull __________________ Semper Fi



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