Tips When Buying First Build?

[Pyromedic]

Hey all - new to the boards here and have found some great info. I'm 32 years old and finally getting ready to take the plunge on a life-long dream I've had since I saw that bada** C10 in Dazed & Confused, which of course is buying one of my own! Since this is my first time doing anything like this, I was wondering if the board could help me out and give me some tips on things to pay close attention to when buying their first build that apply specifically to C10's or classics in general? Things to stay away from, specific questions to ask seller, etc. are all the things I'm trying to find out about.

Hoping to find something with a solid frame and straight body, then swapping the engine, tranny, and suspension as I go. It will mainly be for driving around town and once in awhile making the drive in to work or out for a long cruise. Thanks in advance!

[913]

One of the basics if you're buying a "project". Wear old clothes and spend a good amount of time looking UNDERNEATH the vehicle. People spend their time making the topside look presentable, but most don't bother with the bottom.

[turp mcspray]

If you spend more up front, for a nice truck, you will be money ahead in the long run. A lot of people buy $100 junkers not realizing how expensive bringing it back from the dead can be.

[Hubscrub]

carry a small magnet to check the body, usual rust places are under battery (rad support, wheel well), rockers, cab corners, bottom of doors. Also buy the best truck you can afford/it will save ya money in the long run.

[Pyromedic]

Thanks guys. 913, any things in particular to watch out for? Am I looking for cracks, welds, bends, etc? I'd definitely prefer to have something solid underneath since I plan to do the body, interior, etc a certain way "on my own".

Turp, that is a really big area I was wondering about. I don't want to go too overboard, but like you said I'd like to spend the extra cash to have something somewhat solid to begin with. Do you think the $5K - $7K range "should" net something decent, or should I look a bit higher? Though I'd love to eventually build something up, I need to get some experience with the basics first.

And just saw your post, too Hubscrub. Sounds like spending a bit of cash in the beginning will go a long way.

[stsalvage]

these 2 guys Are dead on.I've been in the junking and salvage business for over 19 years.And i'm a truck Fan my self.I own 12 of the dam things 1964--72 and a 1971 Nova with a big block.Now My main thing is Floor board You do not want to even try to mess then that.Don't buy some ones Else's project Too many kids get these trucks and think there better at designing the truck them GM is.

I love stock trucks. If the guy builds a 1964--72 trucks and builds with with new factory M&H repop harness and lets say they add mods like Power steering and power brakes & puts in a 700R4 over drive and its been lowered right then your in the winner circle all that work Cost major money now days.

the 3 places you really need to make sure there is No cancer NONE IN THE ROOF.try and stay away from any Floor damage you will have some cancer inside of the cab on the undersides of the dash just below the Air vents tords the floor seem and the panel that is where the fresh air vents are.all mine have it and Rockers a little bit is ok But if it has a lot that means the rest of the truck will ave it too.


Look in the glove compartment to see what options came with the truck.This is very important Its just means you will have to go find them parts later on.

Look for any Bent frames. But the guy said it right Its nicer to get one that the guy did most of the work for you.My one thing about any build is that the wire harness needs to be in tip top condition a full re pop harness for a long bed is $900.00 this web site you need to go throw and check for prices on parts before you go looking at trucks.

reason why i say it Is i bought a 1967 camaro 12 years ago it had no engine or trans payed only $400.00.it was a killer deal until i listed ever part I did a full total on what it would take to peace it back to gather $27,912.00 and that was not painted.I found a 1967 RS 3 years later payed 13,000 and it was a runner and a driver a savings of $14,000 and change

from that time and now the parts have gone up 55% to 80%

One lasting I have to add and you need to know If you can and you have a good friend that has a truck from 1964--72 and he will let you drive it and take it home and see how it drives how it feels when you take a corner.I've met more guys that think after they drive a 2000 chevy truck they thing that the 1964--72 will drive and see the same way.

your so wrongly mistaken these trucks where not built for comfort they are trucks Not like these thing we have now days.Best way to know what your getting your self into you need to drive one for a few hours

Most guys are car guys truck guys are a breed all by them self's WWW.truckandcarshop.com

[Zoomin]

Originally Posted by Pyromedic

Hoping to find something with a solid frame and straight body, then swapping the engine, tranny, and suspension as I go. It will mainly be for driving around town and once in awhile making the drive in to work or out for a long cruise. Thanks in advance!

This won't be your daily driver, will it? That's a whole different deal if it is, because it will down a lot while you're doing the things you listed.

I would advise you not buy the first one you look at, look at several so you get a good idea what they go for.

[butler57]

I would spend several weeks (if not months) just cruising this site. I did, and I've never regretted it for a minute. Just about every question you could think of has been answered here - all you have to do is search.
The best advice was pick the best body you can afford. I'm not a mechanic - far from it - however most stuff is pretty fixable with basic tools and some time spent researching. body work gets expensive if you can't do it yourself.

[hugger6933]

Get one of your friends that is a car[truck] guy to go with you . Someone that has no emotional tie to the truck or car project or driver you are looking at. I always pays to have an advocate ,someone to watch your back and bring you back to your senses if you go crazy for a deal. Also, if you find a deal don't be afraid to walk away. I have been in the car bussinness since the late 80's and one thing I really hate and will not do is say that "I have someone ready to give blank, or someone just called and is on the way with cash" You don't need pressure to deal with along with making the choice wether to buy or not. Good luck and take your time. Jim

[Pyromedic]

Thanks all for the great info. Yeah, I'm not looking to buy anything until the fall at the earliest, so it's good to know that I am doing the right thing by not rushing into it.

Not going to be my daily driver, but might be what I take down to the grocery store or out to dinner, so just need it to start reliably and not have the wheels come off when I light it up now and again

Basically, I want it to be my fun truck and I can use my commuter for all the other stuff.

[turp mcspray]

You can always buy something done, cheaper than you can build it, especially in this economy. If you just want something to drive and enjoy, you should have a lot to choose from. If you have to have a certain color with certain options, that will narrow down the field in which to choose from. With that being said, restoring something can be a very rewarding experiance. If you have never restored something, don't jump into a frame off/every nut and bolt build. It can be very overwhelming, which makes it easy to lose interest. And they ALWAYS end up costing more than planned. I would make friends with someone who is familiar with restoration work, and bring them along when you go look at something. Good luck with your search!

[JORGIE95961]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

If you spend more up front, for a nice truck, you will be money ahead in the long run. A lot of people buy $100 junkers not realizing how expensive bringing it back from the dead can be.

Verrrry tru .. I bout a gmc swb for 1200 bucks.. the only thing left on it will be the engine tires chassis and half the bed.. the rest wil be donor parts... Please keep in mind that rust is way harderto deal with than mechanical issues.

[bcutt]

You got it made, your in CA, do you guys even know what rust is?

I was born and raised in CA so I can speak from experience..

[JORGIE95961]

Originally Posted by bcutt

You got it made, your in CA, do you guys even know what rust is?

I was born and raised in CA so I can speak from experience..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=447690

thats rust lol

[ubtripn]

Estimate cost then multiply by 3

[leddzepp]

The least amount of rust the better. Mechanical stuff is easy/cheap compared to bodywork.

[Tmwoodall]

I'll second the buy complete, not a junker. And if you are looking to just have the truck, buy soemone else's project.

I bought half a truck and boxes of parts, and have spent tons more than most do on a finished truck in really nice shape. I am guessing I am 15-18k in the hole and 2+ years from completion, with some expensive items left to complete (Interior, Paint, Glass, etc).

If I had it to do over again, I would have bought a running or almost running truck that was "drivable" and started from there.

[mpotts64]

To me the most important place to look is the cab, under the cowl and along the firewall. I am building 3 of these trucks now and have bought two more recently. Pull off the cowl and look down under the windshield to the sides and there is a seam, check that seam very well, both from on top and underneath, that seam will be above the fuse block on the driver side. Also, check the bottom of the windshield rubber and there is a seam right at the beginning of that space, many of them start rusting there and then it runs down under the dash and rusts that whole seam out. Pull the wiring harness that runs along the firewall and check that whole seam there, many start rusting there. I am not too worried about rocker panels and parts of the floor pans, I expect to have to replace that, but the top of the cab around the window and underneath is where I look. I have passed up many trucks because of rust in those areas. Also, check the kick panel on the side where that vent is, many of them will rust out there because that vent box gets full of leaves, etc, holds water and rusts through into the cab. I do not worry about the drive train because I will replace it anyway, but I check that cab like a demon tormented banshee, if it is rusted up top, I run, good luck with your project

[Hduramax]

Hey welcome to the site, I would for sure follow what alot of these guys are saying, take your time and find something nice to start with. If your looking to spend 5-7k you should b able to find a good starting point that may only need a few mods to make it your own, and then u can do more driving and less wrenching

[stich626]

1) deside if this has to drive when you buy, or if a project non running is ok
2)if a truck you look at is non running or "it ran when parked" expect it was parked because of mechanical issues, unless the owner can clear that up ,by geting it run'n and moving, if not price it as a non running truck.
3)if a seller say's rebuilt engine,tranny,etc . no matter what they say, with out reciepts of the work(or at least for the parts used) as far as you're concerned it's just a running engine, without paperwork.. this goes for any repair on the truck unless it's something you can see (exp. exhaust)
4) bring a magnet. some body filler is ok. but some are masters of the art of mud..
5)bring a friend or buddy, thats at least knows about cars/trucks as this is another set of eyes and an unbiased set, as you might get beer goggles as you're looking at your dream truck.. it's happened to the best of us..
6)if numbers matching doesn't mean anything to you, don't pay for it..
7)bring a flashlight.. look under the dash is the wiring a bee's nest ? price acordingly..
FYI alot will be..
8)wear close you don't care about, bring a jack (this are trucks so you maybe able to get away without one)
9) if an automatic, bring a long q tip.. sellers are known to put new fluid in a burnt up tranny but the unside of the dipstick tube will tell the real story(smell the fuild on q tip) burnt fuild will still be there..
10)bring a tape measure (25' or better) and measure the wheel base on each side (use the center of each wheel to get measurment) the measurement should be very close from side to side.
11) look for frame damage, ROT or wreck damage..

depending on what you're gonna do or can do..
nothing is a deal breaker if the right price.. except if it's got frame damage ,then all bets are off..
and remember, cash talks, if it's something you like and you and bud didn't find anything you can't handle and have an idea that the sellers asking price is about what trucks worth TO YOU. then start dickering,, cash always talks,, and even if you have more money on you than you offer, don't let the seller know that, and if your offer is fair and he says no. leave your number and walk away..
never ever let the seller see you with more money as thats a card you don't want him to be able to use as your giddy looking at a truck you want..
good luck..

[PanelDeland]

One thing to add to the above.Always offer less than you will pay.You can always go up but I've never seen a buyer get away with lowering his offer.And you might get lucky and buy cheap.

[Pyromedic]

Great tips, all. Thanks again!

[special-K]

My tip is don't buy a build,buy a driver.

[treveiger]

See if you can find a restored roller that after the body work was all done the guy didnt want to buy the motor and tranny. Get one that needs very little or no body work, mechanical is easier and most can do it themselves but body work has a art to it and takes practice. Do you want a driver right away? What i did was bought a restored truck for cheap that needed a few fixes here and there but the body work is done although i decided i dont like the pearl and am going to repaint it but all the welding and shaping of the truck is done and am very glad for that. Last summer was when i bought it and drove it that summer so hopefully the "itch" to drive it wont be as bad as before and this summer is when im going to start working on it then maybe times during winter storage.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by special-K

My tip is don't buy a build,buy a driver.

I will be taking this advice on my next buy.