Cluster plugs

[bigd65]

Can someone post up the different cluster plugs, ( PINS ) from an 82 and I believe this cluster ( TACH Cluster ) came from a 79, It has the mechanical oil pressure gauge and does have a VOLT gauge and NOT the AMP gauge

[ray_mcavoy]

Hi bigd65,

The mechanical oil pressure gauge and voltmeter would mean the tach cluster is from a 76 or 77. Amp gauges were used from 73-75. And 78 was the first year for the electric oil pressure gauges.

I have a 77 wiring diagram that shows the cluster plug for the gauge cluster (with or without tach) as:

Row A:
-lt blue = left turn indicator
-dk blue = right turn indicator
-pink = ign feed
-empty slot
-dk blue = oil pressure (not sure if this is even used since there's no "oil" light on the gauge cluster
-black = ground
-pink/white = seat belt light
-tan/white = "brake" warning light
-tan = fuel gauge

Row B:
-black = ground
-dk green = temp gauge
-tan = fuel gauge
-tan/white = "brake" warning light
-pink = ign feed
-pink = ign feed
-black = ground
-gray = inst panel backlighting
-lt green = high beam indicator

Note that there are 2 connections each for the fuel gauge & brake warning light. Only one connection is actually used depending on the cluster (with or w/o tach). The unused ones just lead to empty connection points on the printed circuit.

Also note that the tach itself has a separate 3-wire harness that plugs directly into the back of the tach (doesn't use the printed circuit).

Unfortunately, I don't have an 82 wiring diagram for comparison. I think it'll have more or less the same group of wires leading to the cluster plug but they'll be arranged in a different order in the plug. Wire color coding will likely be similar but a few may have changed over the years. And obviously, the 82 will have an extra wire in there somewhere for the electric oil gauge.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by bigd65

Can someone post up the different cluster plugs, ( PINS ) from an 82 and I believe this cluster ( TACH Cluster ) came from a 79, It has the mechanical oil pressure gauge and does have a VOLT gauge and NOT the AMP gauge

If it has the mech oil pressure gauge and volt meter it's from a 1976. 73-75 has an ammeter and mech oil and 77-91 has electric oil pressure and volt.

If this is the same truck as in your OP about the gauges you only had everything sorta working http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...70#post4549170 Your small gauges still had the power and ground backwards (nailing the oil and temp gauges with the key on) and you didn't have power and ground for the volt gauge. I'd finish the wiring job to make the existing gauge cluster work right before jumping into re-pinning the harness for a 1976 cluster.

The tach may not work no matter what you paid for it. The early tachs were not reliable pieces. I bought 5 early tach clusters before I got a good tach for my 76. I repaired tested and sold 2 of the 4 dead soldiers when the prices went way up so I broke even (the other 2 have potted circuit boards). You'll want to test it before you dive into making the 1982 harness compatible with the 76 cluster. Power ground and signal are well marked on the back of the tach.

[bigd65]

I was thinking the very same thing, I dont really know if I will mess with the Tach Cluster at all, just trying to fix the truck to be a NICE truck, not a show or hotrod or something that I will ever even need a tach for.

I talked to the guy that owned the wrecker I got it from and he did say it was a 76

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by bigd65

I was thinking the very same thing, I dont really know if I will mess with the Tach Cluster at all, just trying to fix the truck to be a NICE truck, not a show or hotrod or something that I will ever even need a tach for.

I talked to the guy that owned the wrecker I got it from and he did say it was a 76

If the Tach works you can probably get a pretty penny for the cluster on eBay.

[bigd65]

I was kinda thinking that way as well.

I have not had time to get to that wire plug. I do really appreciate you doing that for me. I am hoping that is the whole problem with the VOLT gauge and the TEMP gauge pegging out when I hook it up. The GAS and OIL gauges seem fine but they may not be rreading correctly eather. I guess I will figure that out soon enough. Thanks again, I will let you know if that fixes everything or not

[bigd65]

Row A -------------------------Row B

1- Lt green--------/--------2 pink - 18
2- gray------/-2 tan w-wht stripe - 17
3- black-----/-2 pink w-blk stripe - 16
4- pink w-blk stripe /--xxxxxxxxx - 15
5- tan ---------------/--xxxxxxxxx - 14
6- pink w-blk stripe /------yellow - 13
7- pink--------------/-------- blue - 12
8- black-------------/------lt. blue - 11
9- green-------------/--------black - 10

Is this what yall are saying about the ROW A and ROW B

Finally got some garage time and this is what my cluster plug looks like. I some of these diagrams on here that that show numbers but I dont have numbers that high on my plug in fact they go from 1-18, I dont know what the numbers are that yall put on there. For those that have not been following this, I am tryig to get my factory gauges working. HATZIE has been been helping (PM sent BTW ) but I have some double wires in some pin locations that the diagram I got does not. What is up with this thing

[bigd65]

Ok I edited my post, I really to get this done. When I am done with the dash, I am going to get the floors fixed and start on the interior so I can drive this truck around some, as it is it just sits in my back yard.

[bigd65]

Is HATZIE M.I.A., He has been REALLY helpful on this matter, I sure could use the help on this,

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by bigd65

Row A -------------------------Row B

1- Lt green--------/--------2 pink - 18
2- gray------/-2 tan w-wht stripe - 17
3- black-----/-2 pink w-blk stripe - 16
4- pink w-blk stripe /--xxxxxxxxx - 15
5- tan ---------------/--xxxxxxxxx - 14
6- pink w-blk stripe /------yellow - 13
7- pink--------------/-------- blue - 12
8- black-------------/------lt. blue - 11
9- green-------------/--------black - 10

Is this what yall are saying about the ROW A and ROW B

Yes, that's what I was describing with the two rows. They're not actually labeled "ROW A" and "ROW B" anywhere on the truck or in the diagrams. I just used those labels as a way to describe the two rows of wires on the cluster plug.

Finally got some garage time and this is what my cluster plug looks like. I some of these diagrams on here that that show numbers but I dont have numbers that high on my plug in fact they go from 1-18, I dont know what the numbers are that yall put on there. For those that have not been following this, I am tryig to get my factory gauges working. HATZIE has been been helping (PM sent BTW ) but I have some double wires in some pin locations that the diagram I got does not. What is up with this thing

The numbers you've seen on the diagrams are factory circuit numbers. They don't match up with the 1-18 numbers marked on the plug at all. And those numbers on the plug are not shown on the factory wiring diagrams.

I just came across an 84 wiring diagram I forgot I had. It shows the exact same layout and color code as what you posted for your 82. Here's how those wire colors relate to their function:

(first number is what's on the plug, last number in ( ) is the factory circuit number)

1 - lt green = high beam indicator (11)
2 - gray = inst panel backlighting (8)
3 - black = ground (150)
4 - pink w-blk stripe = ign feed (39)
5 - tan = signal from electric oil gauge sending unit (31)
6 - pink w-blk stripe = ign feed (39)
7 - pink = fuel gauge sending unit (30)
8 - black = ground (150)
9 - green = temp gauge sending unit (35)

10 - black = ground (150)
11 - lt blue = left turn indicator (14)
12 - dk blue = right turn indicator (15)
13 - yellow = fasten seat belt light (237)
14 - empty
15 - empty
16 - 2 pink w-blk stripe = both ign feeds (39)
17 - 2 tan w-wht stripe = "brake" warning light (one feeds from the pressure switch, the other from the parking brake) (33)
18 - 2 pink = fuel gauge (one of these wires loops around and goes to #7 slot, the other goes to the sending unit) (30)

For comparison, here's the 77 layout again, but this time I translated it over to the same format/numbering arangement:

1 - lt green = high beam indicator (11) (unchanged)
2 - gray = inst panel backlighting (8) (unchanged)
3 - black = ground (150) (unchanged)
4 - pink = ign feed (39) (unchanged except for black stripe color coding difference)
5 - pink = ign feed (39) (CHANGED)
6 - 2 tan w/white stripe = "brake" warning light (33) (CHANGED)
7 - 2 tan = fuel gauge sending unit (30) (unchanged except for wire color difference)
8 - dk green = temp gauge (35) (CHANGED)
9 - black = ground (150) (CHANGED)

10 - lt blue = left turn indicator (14) (CHANGED)
11 - dk blue = right turn indicator (15) (CHANGED)
12 - pink = ign feed (39) (CHANGED)
13 - empty (CHANGED)
14 - dk blue = oil light (931) (CHANGED)
15 - black = ground (150) (CHANGED)
16 - pink w/white stripe = seat belt light (237) (CHANGED)
17 - tan w/white stripe = "brake" warning light (33) (unchanged)
18 - tan = fuel gauge sending unit (30) (unchanged except for wire color difference)

So it looks like the row numbered 1-9 on the plug has the dk green (temp) and black (ground) wires reversed as well as some changes to the ign feed, brake, and oil gauge wiring on slots 5 & 6. And the row numbered 10-18 on the plug has more significant changes with the turn signal indicators both getting moved over a notch as well as some ground and ignition feed changes. These changes will definitely cause the problems you're seeing with the VOLT & TEMP gauges ... as well as some other issues.

[bigd65]

Thats some fantastic stuff but I dont have the problems with the turn signals. they bothe work like they are suppose to. If I change them whats that gonna do. Also, mayne Im losing something but mine is an 82 is that gonna be the same as the 77 you state as above.

I am reading this and re reading it to make sure I can under stand it

I hate to sound like an idiotm but are you saying I should line mine the way you show and I should be fine that way

[bigd65]

OK Ray, I was just checking on Captkaos site ( http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...rument_pg1.jpg ), he has some diagrams posted up there. The cluster plug your say mine needs to compare to is exactly like the 80 and older. I check mine with the 81 - 87 and its exatly the way the diagram say it should be with ALL colors matching with the exception of one. the #15. Mine shows a BLANK however the diagram shows a DRK BLUE WIRE. I dont have any idea where it would go, it just say to BULK HEAD. All the others are as shown on the diagram for instrument cluster with gauges

[ray_mcavoy]

Hi bigd65,

I dont have the problems with the turn signals. they bothe work like they are suppose to. If I change them whats that gonna do.

Hmmm ... that's strange, but if they're working okay, don't change those wires.

Also, mayne Im losing something but mine is an 82 is that gonna be the same as the 77 you state as above.

No, 82 & 77 are different as I listed. But you said earlier that you swapped in a tach cluster that has a volt gauge & mechanical oil gauge, correct? The only two years to use that combination were 76 & 77. So I posted the 77 layout to show how those clusters with the mechanical oil gauge are wired.

I was just checking on Captkaos site ( http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...rument_pg1.jpg ), he has some diagrams posted up there ....... with the exception of one. the #15. Mine shows a BLANK however the diagram shows a DRK BLUE WIRE.....

I just took a look at that diagram and that dark blue wire is the one for the right turn indicator. The #15 shown on that diagram is the factory circuit number. Like I said earlier, not to be confused with the numbers marked on the plug itself. That dark blue wire (ckt #15) goes into the slot marked 12 on the plug for the 81-87 gauge cluster layout.

[bigd65]

that blue wire is there, the diagram is showing two drk blue wires and the one your talking about for the signal is there. the one im talking about just says goes to the bulk head connector and it #15 on the plug itself.

i think i elected not to go for the tach cluster, to much of a pain that i dont wanna suffer

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by bigd65

that blue wire is there, the diagram is showing two drk blue wires and the one your talking about for the signal is there. the one im talking about just says goes to the bulk head connector and it #15 on the plug itself.

Okay, you're talking about the dk blue wire marked ckt #931, correct?

The wiring diagram I have shows that dark blue wire going out through the bulkhead connector and connecting to an oil pressure switch on the engine. A light blue wire ties into the same terminal on the oil switch and goes to the electric choke on certain engines. My diagram doesn't show where it leads to on the cluster itself, but I'm guessing to the "CHOKE" light.

Not all engines had electric chokes from the factory. So the blank #15 slot on your connector likely means your truck didn't have an electric choke. Probably had the manifold heated style choke instead.

i think i elected not to go for the tach cluster, to much of a pain that i dont wanna suffer

So now you're just trying to get the original gauge cluster working correctly? If that's the case, ignore all that stuff I posted about the 77 cluster wiring.

[bigd65]

HAHAHAHA, Yea I like to take the easy route, besides that this aint a HOTROD so the tachis really un-necessary. I am thinking now that I have a bad VOLT gauge and maybe a bad TEMP sender. The sender is new but that dont mean it cant be bad. I guess Im going to put a new oone again and see if that fixes it. Then I gotta finda VOLT gauge, I may pull the one from the tach cluster and see if its good, I reallydont wanna break it up, worth more as a whole.