In-Cab Hood Release

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While standing and drooling over Craig's "GARAGE QUEEN" (which happend to have the grill removed), it hits me.....I think I can make this hood latch cable operated. If it can be done, that would offer a little more security for engine goodies. Hmmmmm. Luv2lxr8 and G-Man69 were both standing there when the idea took hold. Well, a quick trip to the junk yard and a couple hours of head-scratching, and this is the result.

Here is the hood latch removed from the truck:

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Here is the cable that I used. I got it from a 1988-1994 Chevy Fullsize truck with the "square" dash.

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On the hood release cable, I had to remove the "stop" that is on the end of the cable. I used a pair of Vise-grips and a cut-off tool to slice the "stop" just down to the cable itself. Then simply lifted the cable out.

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I drilled a small hole, as close to the cable diameter as I could in the back of the release of the hood latch.

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A bracket must be created to allow the cable to securely connect to the hood latch. I used 1/8" thick flat bar. I cut off a 3" (roughly) piece and drilled a hold in it that is close to the diameter of the cable end. Then cut it into a slot using a saw. It had to be welded on at an angle so that the cable is pulling at an upward angle. (I couldn't figure a way to make it bolt on---sorry)

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I tested the fit of the cable in the new bracket. It is tight, but that is what you want. I had to tap mine down into the groove.

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I mounted my cable pull in the cab and ran the cable out through the firewall. You may have to look close. It almost blends into the dash. The angle matched so well it was spooky. (It is mounted to the right of the e-brake release - The black thing)

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The cable connects by going through the hole I drilled, then looping back and securing it with a cable stop. After a quick test, I found that I was not strong enough to pull the stupid latch open. After a few minutes of brain-freeze, I decided to bend the spring to ease the pressure. If you look, where the spring is curved, it used to be straight. If you compare it to an un-modified one, it is clear what I changed. (Sorry I forgot a spring 'before' pic).

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After a quick test, I made sure it was working. The only thing left to do is cut the tabs so it won't open from outside. There are two tabs that operate the center part, and one that operates the "hook". DO NOT CUT THE HOOK tab.

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There you have it. It will not open from the outside for 99% of the would-be thieves. It is possible to open it if the cable breaks. Just get on the ground and look up between the grill and the radiator. There you can see the bottom of the latch. Simply push up on the tabs you cut with a long screwdriver or other similar tool to pop the hood open. Hope this helps.

[68w/sbc406]

here is my version of your idea
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...71#post1134871

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Here are the pics of his version of this project:

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I like the way his looks....alot...so now if we can only get him to list what he did to the part where the cable connects to the latch.....I assume he welded the extension that you see on there. (which would give better leverage and make it even easier to release)

[68w/sbc406]

all it is is two pieces of flat bar. the one that i welded to the latch part is 2 inch wide. it is at a upward angle so the motion is smoother, and straighter. if it is too long then it will hit the core support, i guessed too long and then ground it down just enough to clear it. i thought that it might need some kind of gusset but it was plenty stong with just the weld. then the piece that looks like square tube is 1 1/2 flat bar that i 'massaged' with a hammer and vise. i left the ends long so i could get the radius on there and also it be the right length to hole the cable in. so when i started it each upward end was 2 3/4 and the middle was 2 1/2. it puts the cable straight down and it then curves inbetween the core and radiator along the inner fender and in the cab through a hole that i drilled. it is still a pull on the cable but it is feasible, i should have tweeked the spring like putter did, then it porbably would have been an easy pull. clear as mud? next step, i am thinking about some kind of spring where the hood rubbers are so it will pop up when i pull it, maybe new hood hinges would help. let me know if you want any other pictures (maybe ones that are less blurry) and i will give it a shot.

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Well, I did another hood release (For a board member) using a version of 68w/sbc406's version of my install. I was able to complete it in under 30 minutes. I used a flat bar from Home Depot (1" wide and 1/8" thick). Put it in the vice and used a hammer to talk it into the squared "U" shape....leaving the ends a little longer than needed so I could trim them to a perfect fit. Works like a dream with NO spring modification at all.

[68w/sbc406]

its a good mod, i am glad i did mine. its a little stiff now though

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shoot some spray lube in all the parts....and force some into the cable sleeve. Should help some....and every little bit counts. I also had to adjust the parts on the hood. You know.....that little bullet rod that is sticking down. It seems that my hood was putting too much tesion on the hood-release.
Try this. Have someone push down on the front of your hood while you pull the release. If it gets easier, then just open the hood and screw out a little slack on the part of the latch that is mounted on the hood. Makes a world of difference.

***NOTE*** I just did a mod for board member Jerry Jones, and turns out his 'camper' truck has a remote mounted tranny cooler on the front of the radiator. The bracket will not clear this, and he may or maynot get to use the latch. Please look into this if you have a tranny or A/C part on the front of your radiator before you go to the trouble of modifying your latch.