c-notch Q? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

fast67chevy2002 · 07-15-2003, 01:12 AM

who is the best place to go through, and what c-notch should I go with. I am doing a 4/6 drop, and was told that I needed a c-notch. please help.

SCOTI · 07-15-2003, 10:51 AM

Early Classics & Classic Perf. Products have bolt in c-sections as well as Turner Ent.

I'm not sure if they all make their own or if they're just distibutors for one another. I used CCP's & it worked great.

OldSkool71 · 07-16-2003, 04:49 PM

I was told by ECE that you do not need a C-Notch with their 4/6 drop. Im not even sure they sell a C-Notch sections at all? Check around I am ready to do the same drop and have had people telling me I need to C-Notch and others say no. But I talked to Dave at ECE and he assured me that a C-Notch is not necessary with their 4/6 drop. Keep me posted on what you find out. I have decided to go with the ECE drop kit just getting some other stuff in order first.

LowSeventy · 07-17-2003, 03:55 PM

Oldskool, he told me the same thing when I bought my kit. If I remember right, he said there is only about an inch of clearance between the top of the differential and the bed floor, so if you c-notch it, thats all the travel you will pick up. I didn't want to cut my frame for an inch more travel. I have put a bunch of miles on my truck, and I have no problem bottoming out with my 6" rear springs.

OldSkool71 · 07-17-2003, 04:35 PM

LowSeventy, can you tell me more about your drop and what was done. Im wondering about the rear bump stops if they had to be modified at all. Did you use the ECE 4/6 drop kit?

LowSeventy · 07-17-2003, 05:19 PM

I bought their 3.5/6 kit and 6 lug discs. The rear is a set of 6" drop springs, and the shock mount relocators and Super Bar kit.
Stan at ECE told me he could sell me new bumpstops, or i could just cut the original stops down for more travel. I have at least 3 inches left, and it does not bottom out, even when I cross a bad intersection.

polevault1977 · 07-17-2003, 10:47 PM

Very interesting thread. I have eces 3.5/6 drop on my 67. I am at the rolling frame stage with engine and driveline in. I've been scratching my head(no fleas!)wondering if I should c-notch or not. Dave at ece said they were not necessary. He should know. I measure 3.5 inches from the bottom of my frame to the top of my axle tube. If you c-notch with ece trackbar setup, it looks to me like you would have to have a notch 7-8 inches to clear the axle tube and the relocated trackbar bracket. I think slammed67 moved his bracket to another location which is an option. With all this said I'm leaning toward not c-notching. Anyone else running eces 6" drop springs with no c-notch and not having any bottoming out problems? Danny

OldSkool71 · 07-17-2003, 11:00 PM

LowSeventy, did u trim those bumpstops or no?

LowSeventy · 07-18-2003, 11:21 AM

Stan told me to cut the old bumpstops off flush with the bottom of the frame, since the u-bolt is what hits the rubber part. I'm glad that we all received the same advice from them. If you ever make it to Fresno, I would recommend stopping by and meeting them. They seem like genuine people that know our trucks well.

07-15-2003, 01:12 AM	#1
fast67chevy2002 Dad's little helper Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Helena, MT Posts: 194	c-notch Q? who is the best place to go through, and what c-notch should I go with. I am doing a 4/6 drop, and was told that I needed a c-notch. please help.

07-15-2003, 10:51 AM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,071	Early Classics & Classic Perf. Products have bolt in c-sections as well as Turner Ent. I'm not sure if they all make their own or if they're just distibutors for one another. I used CCP's & it worked great. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

07-16-2003, 04:49 PM	#3
OldSkool71 C/10 CLUB MEMBER Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lakewood, CA Posts: 993	I was told by ECE that you do not need a C-Notch with their 4/6 drop. Im not even sure they sell a C-Notch sections at all? Check around I am ready to do the same drop and have had people telling me I need to C-Notch and others say no. But I talked to Dave at ECE and he assured me that a C-Notch is not necessary with their 4/6 drop. Keep me posted on what you find out. I have decided to go with the ECE drop kit just getting some other stuff in order first. __________________ -Ron-

07-17-2003, 04:35 PM	#5
OldSkool71 C/10 CLUB MEMBER Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lakewood, CA Posts: 993	LowSeventy, can you tell me more about your drop and what was done. Im wondering about the rear bump stops if they had to be modified at all. Did you use the ECE 4/6 drop kit? __________________ -Ron-

07-17-2003, 11:00 PM	#8
OldSkool71 C/10 CLUB MEMBER Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lakewood, CA Posts: 993	LowSeventy, did u trim those bumpstops or no? __________________ -Ron-

07-17-2003, 03:55 PM	#4
LowSeventy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 67	Oldskool, he told me the same thing when I bought my kit. If I remember right, he said there is only about an inch of clearance between the top of the differential and the bed floor, so if you c-notch it, thats all the travel you will pick up. I didn't want to cut my frame for an inch more travel. I have put a bunch of miles on my truck, and I have no problem bottoming out with my 6" rear springs.

07-17-2003, 05:19 PM	#6
LowSeventy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 67	I bought their 3.5/6 kit and 6 lug discs. The rear is a set of 6" drop springs, and the shock mount relocators and Super Bar kit. Stan at ECE told me he could sell me new bumpstops, or i could just cut the original stops down for more travel. I have at least 3 inches left, and it does not bottom out, even when I cross a bad intersection.

07-17-2003, 10:47 PM	#7
polevault1977 Pick'n up the pieces! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Marietta, Oklahoma Posts: 198	Very interesting thread. I have eces 3.5/6 drop on my 67. I am at the rolling frame stage with engine and driveline in. I've been scratching my head(no fleas!)wondering if I should c-notch or not. Dave at ece said they were not necessary. He should know. I measure 3.5 inches from the bottom of my frame to the top of my axle tube. If you c-notch with ece trackbar setup, it looks to me like you would have to have a notch 7-8 inches to clear the axle tube and the relocated trackbar bracket. I think slammed67 moved his bracket to another location which is an option. With all this said I'm leaning toward not c-notching. Anyone else running eces 6" drop springs with no c-notch and not having any bottoming out problems? Danny

07-18-2003, 11:21 AM	#9
LowSeventy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 67	Stan told me to cut the old bumpstops off flush with the bottom of the frame, since the u-bolt is what hits the rubber part. I'm glad that we all received the same advice from them. If you ever make it to Fresno, I would recommend stopping by and meeting them. They seem like genuine people that know our trucks well.



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