door innerds - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

hank · 07-19-2003, 10:51 AM

good morning, fellas.

i have to swap out a window regulator from an old door to put in my new one.

is this an easy job? any tips, tricks you guys have that would make the job easier?

also i have an issue with the regulator post on my other door, the grooves are mostly stripped. is it possible to swap out just the post on an otherwise good regulator?

Hutch · 07-19-2003, 12:21 PM

Some of the vendors used to offer a repair kit for this type of repair.
I have not seen them listed in the catalog's lately.
The price was aboult a third of the price of a regulator.
If it were me I would find a good used regulator and swap the whole unit because they are a pesty item to replace and take quite a bit of time. You would not want to have to do it twice.
If you have a good post then give it a shot by drilling out the rivits
Nothing to loose.
Be aware that the used ones on the drivers side will tend to have more wear on them.
Also the 72's had longer post's due to the increase in door panel thickness.
I purchased new replacements for both of my doors, and was not impressed with the quality.
I replaced all of the rubber seals at the same time and they are very stiff to operate.
If I was to do it again I would use good used GM ones.

Have fun

hank · 07-19-2003, 08:44 PM

allright, i'm about to give up on fixing my existing regulators. my drivers side is really stiff and the passenger's side post is very stripped.

anyone have any tips or instructions on replacing these little devils?

hank · 07-19-2003, 10:09 PM

anyone?

palallin · 07-19-2003, 11:18 PM

The Service manual is really helpful here.

Let's see: You'll have to unscrew and remove the vent window/front guide rail assembly. Removing it requires a 90 degree rotation--you'll see why when you unscrew it from the door edge down below.

You'll probably have to loosen or unscrew the rear guide rail, too.

Be careful with all the screws: if this hasn't been done before on your truck (or it was a long time ago when it was), those screws are going to be hard to get out, and it's really easy to mess their Phillips heads up. If you can, get a #3 Phillips bit for your rachet/socket: that way you can hold the pressure on the bit while turning.

You have to roll the window halfway up/down to remove one of the rollers from their tracks. Before you get too far into the job, be sure to spend a moment identifying where everything is.

The job IS a pain; an extra pair of hands is helpful but not essential.

Can anyone add to what I've said? It's been so long, I'm probably forgetting something. . . .

hank · 07-20-2003, 05:10 PM

rust free door, tightly sealed windows, smooth window operation...but a stripped out post.

what would you guys do? can i recut grooves, epoxy handle to post?

trying to get out of replacing BOTH regulators.

any help would be appreciated.

PanelDeland · 07-20-2003, 06:11 PM

I have a suggestion on those pesky screws.If you order new regulators get the new screws with them or just buy new screws.When you get ready to remove them take a junk screwdriver and put in the screw head then tap it with a hammer.Spray what you can get to of the threads with WD-40 and then tap them again.They should come out easier.Also go ahead and set up the drill to drill the bad ones.I find if I have the drill set up I usually don't need it.

neonlarry · 07-20-2003, 08:29 PM

Chevy Duty lists a window regulator repair kit for $14.95. But no picture of whats in the kit, it has to be more than the rollers because they list them separately for $2.95. Won't hurt to give them a call and see whats in the kit. When you find out post back here and let us know I'm sure there are others who could use new shafts. Almost forgot part#18-778.

Capitol68 · 07-20-2003, 11:28 PM

ahh the good ole vice gripped posts !

07-19-2003, 12:21 PM	#2
Hutch Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Grapevine, Tx. Posts: 2,142	Some of the vendors used to offer a repair kit for this type of repair. I have not seen them listed in the catalog's lately. The price was aboult a third of the price of a regulator. If it were me I would find a good used regulator and swap the whole unit because they are a pesty item to replace and take quite a bit of time. You would not want to have to do it twice. If you have a good post then give it a shot by drilling out the rivits Nothing to loose. Be aware that the used ones on the drivers side will tend to have more wear on them. Also the 72's had longer post's due to the increase in door panel thickness. I purchased new replacements for both of my doors, and was not impressed with the quality. I replaced all of the rubber seals at the same time and they are very stiff to operate. If I was to do it again I would use good used GM ones. Have fun __________________ John Hutchison Grapevine,Texas 68 1/2 t swb 68 Mustang 69 Jaguar 71 1/2 t swb 88 Supra CompTs6m 93 Escort GT 2005 Corolla XRS

07-19-2003, 11:18 PM	#5
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	The Service manual is really helpful here. Let's see: You'll have to unscrew and remove the vent window/front guide rail assembly. Removing it requires a 90 degree rotation--you'll see why when you unscrew it from the door edge down below. You'll probably have to loosen or unscrew the rear guide rail, too. Be careful with all the screws: if this hasn't been done before on your truck (or it was a long time ago when it was), those screws are going to be hard to get out, and it's really easy to mess their Phillips heads up. If you can, get a #3 Phillips bit for your rachet/socket: that way you can hold the pressure on the bit while turning. You have to roll the window halfway up/down to remove one of the rollers from their tracks. Before you get too far into the job, be sure to spend a moment identifying where everything is. The job IS a pain; an extra pair of hands is helpful but not essential. Can anyone add to what I've said? It's been so long, I'm probably forgetting something. . . . __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

07-20-2003, 05:10 PM	#6
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	can this window regulator be saved? rust free door, tightly sealed windows, smooth window operation...but a stripped out post. what would you guys do? can i recut grooves, epoxy handle to post? trying to get out of replacing BOTH regulators. any help would be appreciated. Attached Images

07-20-2003, 06:11 PM	#7
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	I have a suggestion on those pesky screws.If you order new regulators get the new screws with them or just buy new screws.When you get ready to remove them take a junk screwdriver and put in the screw head then tap it with a hammer.Spray what you can get to of the threads with WD-40 and then tap them again.They should come out easier.Also go ahead and set up the drill to drill the bad ones.I find if I have the drill set up I usually don't need it. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

07-20-2003, 08:29 PM	#8
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,745	Chevy Duty lists a window regulator repair kit for $14.95. But no picture of whats in the kit, it has to be more than the rollers because they list them separately for $2.95. Won't hurt to give them a call and see whats in the kit. When you find out post back here and let us know I'm sure there are others who could use new shafts. Almost forgot part#18-778. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

07-19-2003, 10:51 AM	#1
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	door innerds good morning, fellas. i have to swap out a window regulator from an old door to put in my new one. is this an easy job? any tips, tricks you guys have that would make the job easier? also i have an issue with the regulator post on my other door, the grooves are mostly stripped. is it possible to swap out just the post on an otherwise good regulator?

07-19-2003, 08:44 PM	#3
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	allright, i'm about to give up on fixing my existing regulators. my drivers side is really stiff and the passenger's side post is very stripped. anyone have any tips or instructions on replacing these little devils? Last edited by hank; 07-19-2003 at 10:08 PM.

07-19-2003, 10:09 PM	#4
hank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: texas, usa Posts: 194	anyone?

07-20-2003, 11:28 PM	#9
Capitol68 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Austin,Tx Posts: 327	ahh the good ole vice gripped posts ! __________________ '68 Fleet LWB orig 307 .030 over GM Hei/w Accel Super coil orig. stock TH 400. _______________________ “What we do for ourselves dies with us. What we do for others and the world remains and is immortal.” Albert Pine English author d.1851



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