Is this 16" fan good enough for cooling my Suburban?

[kikkegek]

hi guys,

need some advise.

I finally got my electrical fan in though oversees shipping (still cheaper then over here, can you imagine!).

but there is a problem:


The left fan is the one I ordered:
16" fan
200 Watts
8 big blades
rated 2400 cfm

the right one is the one I received
16" fan
160 Watts
10 thin blades
rated 2400 cfm

How can two fans both rate 2400 cfm, but still be totally different in design and power?

Will this other type, the right one be enough for my Suburban?

(sorry for the Dutch in the pictures)

[gchemist]

CFM is rated at power vs blade number. The 8 blades take more power to turn 2400 CFM. The smaller blades take less power and move the same 2400 CFMs. Wire it directly to the battery. Use a good 30 amps fuse. Upgrade the ground frame wire. Same for the alternator wire. You live in a cool climate. It shold work fine. Are going to use a head or radiator probe? A head probe is better for temperate measurement. If you run into cooling problems, add a shroud to pull more air through the fan.

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by gchemist

CFM is rated at power vs blade number. The 8 blades take more power to turn 2400 CFM. The smaller blades take less power and move the same 2400 CFMs. Wire it directly to the battery. Use a good 30 amps fuse. Upgrade the ground frame wire. Same for the alternator wire. You live in a cool climate. It shold work fine. Are going to use a head or radiator probe? A head probe is better for temperate measurement. If you run into cooling problems, add a shroud to pull more air through the fan.

thanks man! that is reassuring....

this is the relay kit I bought with it:



description:
This auction is for a brand new electric fan switch kit. This kit includes a switch that screws into the block. It is a 3/8" pipe thread. It activates your fan when the temperature reaches 200 degrees and turns off at approximately 185 degrees. This is also complete with the fan relay and wiring. The relay is 50 amp that is ideal for fans that draw over 10 amps. This kit is perfect for any of our 10, 12, 14, and 16 inch fans. Each kit includes: 50 amp relay Circuit breaker 48" of 12-18 gauge wire Assorted terminals and connectors Temperature sensor


Is that a head sensor or rad sensor?

where would one place the head sensor?

[gchemist]

Okay, I ran that temp probe on my truck. I removed it. Once the fan turns on, it would not shut off. I live in a warm/hot climate. The engine would not cool down to 185 to shut off the fan. I upgraded to a 205 on and 190 off. It works way better for fan temperature control. If you are running a stock thermostat, the fan will stay on after activation. Now, if you drive long enough or it's cool enough, the fan may turn off. Getting the engine below 185 will not be easy unless it's cold enough outside. Since you are doing the install, you can add and LED light. The LED light can tell you when the fan is running. A bypass switch would be nice for long drives if the engine does not cool below 185.
Checkout my setup.


I made my own brackets. I don't like the pull through zipties.

[kikkegek]

now for another question, where shoudl I put the temp sensor of this baby?



1. on the passenger side of the sneing there is a bolt behind this sparkplug wire? can I put it there? Can I just take this bolt out?


2. or better to put it into the thermostat housing on top? here?

[swb85]

Put the sensor in the head where that bolt is. More accurate temp measurement there than by the thermostat.

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by swb85

Put the sensor in the head where that bolt is. More accurate temp measurement there than by the thermostat.

can I unscrew the bolt in the head? and just screw this sensor back in? or do I need to do other stuff to make in watertight (is that the correct word?)?

[78 Chevyrado]

You can just unscrew the bolt and put in the sensor. As long as the threads are the same size, just put teflon tape on it and it will be good.

You may have a time getting that bolt out though. use penetrating oil and take your time. They are usually very hard to get out because of the water that runs on the inside rusting them in place.

[gchemist]

The brass adaptor in the kit will fit. Install the adaptor first. Then install the probe. Don't use any sealant! It must have good ground for the fan to run.

You can see my connection between the 6 and 8 spark plugs.

[kikkegek]

thanks kenny and gerardo

@gerardo. I am looking but sont see anything between the 6 and 8 cylinder...

but thanks for the advise, I'll try to do that 2nite.

But will cooling water come out of it when I unplug it?

what size tool should I use?

[78 Chevyrado]

Originally Posted by gchemist

The brass adaptor in the kit will fit. Install the adaptor first. Then install the probe. Don't use any sealant! It must have good ground for the fan to run.

You can see my connection between the 6 and 8 spark plugs.

Ahh good call on the sealant... I didnt think about that. The tape would be bad, but if you should have a problem with a leak, use a liquid or brush on type sealant sparingly, then you'll get a good connection.

[kikkegek]

as I expteced, the sensor on the thermostathousing is leaking coolant. I dont want to use a sealant for this...but can I use HEMP?

[swb85]

I always seal those sensors with teflon paste and they always work fine.....

[kikkegek]

got the setup done and it looks pretty fine.





and finally, my engine gets up to operating temperature. It hadnt gotten above 150F for over a year now! main reason...damn Flexfan! took it off, replaced it with an electric fan and voila..engine heats up nice and quick and when the fan hits 200F, it cools down within 1 or 2 minutes to 185F.



only thing left is to attach a LED parellel to the electric fan, so I can see on my dash if the fan is running or not...thanks for the tip Gchemist

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by gchemist

Okay, I ran that temp probe on my truck. I removed it. Once the fan turns on, it would not shut off. I live in a warm/hot climate. The engine would not cool down to 185 to shut off the fan. I upgraded to a 205 on and 190 off. It works way better for fan temperature control. If you are running a stock thermostat, the fan will stay on after activation. Now, if you drive long enough or it's cool enough, the fan may turn off. Getting the engine below 185 will not be easy unless it's cold enough outside. Since you are doing the install, you can add and LED light. The LED light can tell you when the fan is running. A bypass switch would be nice for long drives if the engine does not cool below 185.
Checkout my setup.


I made my own brackets. I don't like the pull through zipties.

thanks for the advise man!

I finished my setup and also added the LED (green one) So I know when the fan is running.

The engine now warms up far more quickly...but still, on the highway does not get above about 160-170...then at the traffic light is slowly goes up to 200 and then the fan kicks and cools it down to 185 where the fan stops again...

[gchemist]

Nice work. Your cool climate is enough for one fan. If you need more heat on the highway, try experimenting with a higher temp thermostat. An engine needs to run above 190 for fuel efficiency. I know the colder my ZZ4 runs the MPG drops. I need to keep temps between 195 and 200. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency.

Unfortunately for me, I still need more air flow. I was stuck in slow moving traffic the other day. My temps hit 225 even with the LS1 fans at full speed. My A/C sufferred too. I need to close the gap between the radiator and condensor. Closing the gap will pull more air through both. I may now look into a Viper or Mark VIII fan.

Is your truck diesel? I noticed you are running dual batteries.

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by kikkegek

as I expteced, the sensor on the thermostathousing is leaking coolant. I dont want to use a sealant for this...but can I use HEMP?

used some hemp sunday and the temp sensor is now not leaking water anymore!

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by gchemist

Nice work. Your cool climate is enough for one fan. If you need more heat on the highway, try experimenting with a higher temp thermostat. An engine needs to run above 190 for fuel efficiency. I know the colder my ZZ4 runs the MPG drops. I need to keep temps between 195 and 200. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency.

Unfortunately for me, I still need more air flow. I was stuck in slow moving traffic the other day. My temps hit 225 even with the LS1 fans at full speed. My A/C sufferred too. I need to close the gap between the radiator and condensor. Closing the gap will pull more air through both. I may now look into a Viper or Mark VIII fan.

Is your truck diesel? I noticed you are running dual batteries.

thanks.
My engine now warms up quicker, but still is stuck on 160-170 on highways. I think this is because my LPG evaporator is connected in parallel to my heater core. And my heater core return connection is connected to the radiator cold side )passenger side). Therefor there is now always flow over the radiator, because the evaporator need constant flow to evaporate the LPG. I am now considering to move this return back from the radiator to the waterpump, to make sure all the heat is kept inside the engine, untill the thermostat opens up.

The only problem I would then have is that the e-fan would turn on constantly, because the thermostat is 195F and the e-fan thermostat starts at 200F and turns of at 185F...

I am discussing these water connections in this other topic:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=429908&page=8

[kikkegek]

Originally Posted by gchemist

Nice work. Your cool climate is enough for one fan. If you need more heat on the highway, try experimenting with a higher temp thermostat. An engine needs to run above 190 for fuel efficiency. I know the colder my ZZ4 runs the MPG drops. I need to keep temps between 195 and 200. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency.

Unfortunately for me, I still need more air flow. I was stuck in slow moving traffic the other day. My temps hit 225 even with the LS1 fans at full speed. My A/C sufferred too. I need to close the gap between the radiator and condensor. Closing the gap will pull more air through both. I may now look into a Viper or Mark VIII fan.

Is your truck diesel? I noticed you are running dual batteries.

btw, nope, my truck isnt diesel....the double batteries came with the car. they were bad when we got m, so I had them changed out for VARTA 630Ah batteries...I dont even know if double batteries are needed for my ride? do I?

[gchemist]

You can remove one if you truck runs on 12 volts. Is alternator stock? A stock alternator, depending the year, only cranks out 65 amps. At night, the fan would drain several amps from your lights. The dual batteries would makeup the difference. I suggest upgrading the alternator. In time, the amps from the fan and acessories will wear it down. I run a 145 amp alternator in my truck.

[kikkegek]

Hi Gchemist,
I have no idea of the alternator is stock or not. How can I check this?

On the highway my engine temp still doesnt get above 150-160, because the heater return hose flows through the passenger-side of the radiator.

I am now considering moving this hose to the waterpump, to remove the bypass over the radiator. But I am worried, with a 195F thermostat in the engine and the electric fan coming ON at 200F and turning OFF at 185F, they will be running all the time...

Any expierience on this?

Maybe change my thermostaat to 180? or is that too cool?