running hot

[bigguy69]

i have had a problem with my truck running a little to warm. it is a 350 with a 3 core radiator. going down the interstate it will run about 220 degrees. i have replaced the thermostat, cleaned the radiator, replaced the bottom hose. now i noticed that the new hose didnt have the spring in it. the guy behind the counter said that it didnt need it. but when it is warmed up the bottom hose will suck in. i think this might be my problem. does anybody sell a hose that has the spring in it? or am i missing something? it does not run hot in town about 195. any suggestions? thanks in advance.

[umwtnt]

Do you have a fan shroud. Normally the fan is so far away from the fan that the engine will not cool properly without it. Also does the hose suck in when the engine is running or after it is shut down? If is after shut down then the radiator cap is bad. Good Luck.

[bigguy69]

It has 2 electric fans on it. It sucks the hose in while it is running. Almost flat.
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[68gmsee]

Run to another auto parts store and get rid of your lower radiator hose that you have!!! That's not normal.

Also, you might look into getting a cap that you can use with an overflow tube or reservoir. Mine ran somewhat hotter than I liked and I installed a small overflow container made with 3" pvc pipe. Now it stays at 185 even in the hottest 100 plus Texas days.

Another plus, I don't lose any coolant.

[cdowns]

try taking the actual tempature of the coolant with a know good thermometer to see if in fact there is a temp problem b4 throwin money at it is my normal warning

[bigguy69]

Thanks for the help guys. I guess I have got some mechanical work to do!
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[geezer#99]

Keep your bottom hose and make your own coil for inside it.
I made mine out of 14 gauge galvanized wire. Wrapped it around a 1and 1/2 inch pipe to make a coil. Bought the wire at the hardware store.
Easy-Peazy!!!

[Longhorn Man]

running hot at freeway speeds generally indicates a coolant flow issue since you have a ton of fresh air blowing through the rad (assuming you don't have a million leaves and chicken feathers blocking airflow). Your lower hose going flat with engine RPMs is a problem, and a good place to start. Most modern hoses don't need that spring, but where ever you got that hose... I wouldn't buy another one there(or that brand)

[Dark Knight]

Personally, I hate the look of radiator hoses. They're just so...ugly. I was thinking of getting some copper pipe and soldering some ends onto it and making my own tubing that I could just slip a small section of hose onto the end of and using that. Then, I have a hard line, and no collapses. Plus, I could solder a draincock onto the lower one as an added bonus. I suppose I'd have to flare the ends though to keep the hose from blowing off.

[Dark Knight]

^^^^Chicken feathers? lol. I live on the farm and still don't have that problem.

[Longhorn Man]

you probably wouldn't need to flair anything... most rads don't have anything on them, just straight pipe. 4X4 trucks 67 - 72 had a steel pipe in place of the solid upper rad hose.
I've seen chicken feathers clogging 2 rads, once was an old 70 1/2 camaro, and the other one was a columbus police car (9c1 caprice).
The cop car was 4 years ago, and I am STILL trying to figure that one out.

[DesertCat]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

running hot at freeway speeds generally indicates a coolant flow issue since you have a ton of fresh air blowing through the rad (assuming you don't have a million leaves and chicken feathers blocking airflow). Your lower hose going flat with engine RPMs is a problem, and a good place to start. Most modern hoses don't need that spring, but where ever you got that hose... I wouldn't buy another one there(or that brand)

Exactly right, coolant flow problem.

One thing I always do when I get a cooling problem is check the oil for chocolate milkshake. If you have that then you get to change head gaskets, at least... don't ask how I know this...

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

.......I've seen chicken feathers clogging 2 rads, once was an old 70 1/2 camaro, and the other one was a columbus police car (9c1 caprice). The cop car was 4 years ago, and I am STILL trying to figure that one out.

About 4-5 yrs ago wife and I were traveling through Georgia on I-20 behind a several 18 wheelers carrying chickens in crates doing about 70-80 mph. We had to stay behind a mile or so cause feathers were flying off the chickens and about every 5 miles or so, a chicken would fall out and splatter on the road and cars were sucking up the feathers. Honest truth...

[bigguy69]

I did wash the rad out. I didn't see no chicken feathers. . But I did see alot of bugs though. I am curious about the cop car myself.
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[PanelDeland]

YouTube - Chicken Truck---John Anderson

Maybe this will help!!

[68 IRON]

Originally Posted by cdowns

try taking the actual tempature of the coolant with a know good thermometer to see if in fact there is a temp problem b4 throwin money at it is my normal warning

This would be easy to do, direct reading. Use either laser style or even a meat thermometer. You may find (like I did) the gage is reading high. Bottom line though is to confirm you are indeed reaching those temps.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by 68 IRON

This would be easy to do, direct reading. Use either laser style or even a meat thermometer. You may find (like I did) the gage is reading high. Bottom line though is to confirm you are indeed reaching those temps.

His bottom radiator hose is flattening out. He needs to fix that first.

[GASoline71]

Is the radiator the original 40 year old 3 row? The water pump might be trying to suck water from the bottom with limited flow in the radiator. Which might be collapsing the lower hose. You might need to have the radiator rodded out or replaced if there is too much crud in the core.

Gary

[68 IRON]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

His bottom radiator hose is flattening out. He needs to fix that first.

This is true, you are correct sir! How about this...Drain the cooling system, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator and secure away to drain on the ground. Feed the radiator using a garden hose with cool water (like you would do with an outboard motor). If the radiator chambers are on the side, you will have free flow to the pump. If the chambers are top and bottom, this will check the flow of the radiator. For the side chamber radiator, if the hose collapses, the blockage is internal (engine) for the other style it more than likely could be the radiator (more testing and water will be needed) With everything disconnected and feeding water to the cooling system you will be able to see the thermostat cycle open and closed and be able to measure the temp it opens at with an isolated thermometer. What do you think....?