64 K10 horizontal booster & master cylinder upgrade to mate with corp 10 bolt front - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

pheengurs · 05-12-2011, 08:50 AM

longer travel. ok, that makes sense.

well, I guess I will unbolt the MC and take some exact measurements.

funny how (for me) some things that are logical and obvious, require confirmation that 'this is so'...

anyway, yeah, the new booster is exactly like the old booster, and it appears the little tip is adjustable....so after I measure the depth of the hole in the rear of the m/c + how deep it goes into the booster vs the actual rod length, and see if I'm out at all...

I suppose a guy could also adjust the push rod by feel...adjust it out so that you cannot bolt on the m/c without resistance, and then back off the rod adjustments until you feel no resistance...

it'll be done this weekend. I plumbed up the front lines to & from the prop valve. one more line to mate up with the rear line from the prop valve, and then shortening some coiled lines I grabbed from a junkyard to connect between the prop valve and the m/c... then I can bleed the brakes and test the pedal feel...

thanks for the help guys! I'll post up that rod measurement just in case someone may need it in the future...

duallyjams · 05-12-2011, 08:54 AM

post some pics of your plumbing skills

pheengurs · 05-13-2011, 08:53 AM

certainly, but it ain't gonna be pretty lookin like most of the pics I've seen!

I'll post a couple more pics on the weekend...

I appreciate all the help you guys have given and to the operators of the forum, and especially it's search functions, as though I didn't learn everything I needed via search, I did learn ALOT, and continue to do so on every topic I look up...so thanks!

I've never revamped an entire brake system in one shot before.. Also first time using double flare tool -- I'm hoping my flares will not leak! Many of the bends are by hand. I have a simple bending tool, but it's useless when you need tight bends in tight areas, which is basically my entire brake line setup!

The last guy who owned the truck (or whomever!) plumbed nearly all the brakelines about as close to the exhaust as possible. I wanted to avoid that stupid mistake, so I have gone out of my way to keep the lines cooler than they've ever been on that truck...

copying as best I could newer model chev's (80's) I ran the front brake lines forward in the engine bay from the prop valve.

driver front side bends down and back along the inside of the frame, to connect to the driver brake hose. passenger front goes to the same point forward, then down and across the frame support under the radiator, then back inside the frame towards the pass brake hose.

the rear line heads out and down towards the firewall from the prop valve, avoiding wiring harnesses and the steering column, as well as the exhaust, where it bends back and down and across the manual transmission cross-member. from there, it runs inside the frame again, all the way to the rear axle and it's single brake hose, which t's off to both rear brakes.. I replaced the lines from as close to the rear brake hose, as possible, but basically it's stock routing, but 3/16 line instead of 1/4.

anyway, I plumbed up the rear line last night to the prop valve, and finished the 2 lines from m/c to prop valve. I also realized I needed to remount my prop valve from being solid on the fender, to hanging somewhat freely (like most guy's setup)... otherwise, what's the point of the coils & extra bends to keep vibration from killing your lines, right? So I will cut up some bar stock, put it in the vice, do some bending and shaping and a little paint for a mount, that will be in basically the same spot underneath the m/c.

I also adjusted the vac booster pushrod outward about 1 full turn from it's factory position. I of course, totally forgot to measure it with the digi-caliper...

but it's only two bolts to get the mc off, so no biggie... I'll post up a figure after I've bled and test driven the brakes just to be sure I post a number that actually works...

here's one more question for you all:

because my truck sees alot of water and mud, is there any harm or benefit to running RTV along the seam between the m/c and booster???
the old one had some buildup in this area -- everything worked, but it was there none the less...perhaps rtv would keep it clean?

05-12-2011, 08:50 AM	#1
pheengurs Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 134	Re: 64 K10 horizontal booster & master cylinder upgrade to mate with corp 10 bolt fro longer travel. ok, that makes sense. well, I guess I will unbolt the MC and take some exact measurements. funny how (for me) some things that are logical and obvious, require confirmation that 'this is so'... anyway, yeah, the new booster is exactly like the old booster, and it appears the little tip is adjustable....so after I measure the depth of the hole in the rear of the m/c + how deep it goes into the booster vs the actual rod length, and see if I'm out at all... I suppose a guy could also adjust the push rod by feel...adjust it out so that you cannot bolt on the m/c without resistance, and then back off the rod adjustments until you feel no resistance... it'll be done this weekend. I plumbed up the front lines to & from the prop valve. one more line to mate up with the rear line from the prop valve, and then shortening some coiled lines I grabbed from a junkyard to connect between the prop valve and the m/c... then I can bleed the brakes and test the pedal feel... thanks for the help guys! I'll post up that rod measurement just in case someone may need it in the future... __________________ 1964 K10 shortbox Stepside 383 sbc stroker under vortec heads sm420 trans / t221 tcase / corp 10 front axle / corp 12 rear axle / 3.73 gears rolling on 33x12x15 tires on 6 lug rims.

05-12-2011, 08:54 AM	#2
duallyjams Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Deale Md Posts: 4,663	Re: 64 K10 horizontal booster & master cylinder upgrade to mate with corp 10 bolt fro post some pics of your plumbing skills __________________ James 63 GMC V6 4speed carryall 65 chevy swb bbw V8 auto 68 K20 327/4 speed, buddy buckets 2002 GMC CC Dually Duramax 64 GMC lwb 3/4 V6 4speed SOLD 66 GMC swb bbw buddy buckets SOLD IG duallyjams The only thing that stays the same is constant change!

05-13-2011, 08:53 AM	#3
pheengurs Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 134	Re: 64 K10 horizontal booster & master cylinder upgrade to mate with corp 10 bolt fro certainly, but it ain't gonna be pretty lookin like most of the pics I've seen! I'll post a couple more pics on the weekend... I appreciate all the help you guys have given and to the operators of the forum, and especially it's search functions, as though I didn't learn everything I needed via search, I did learn ALOT, and continue to do so on every topic I look up...so thanks! I've never revamped an entire brake system in one shot before.. Also first time using double flare tool -- I'm hoping my flares will not leak! Many of the bends are by hand. I have a simple bending tool, but it's useless when you need tight bends in tight areas, which is basically my entire brake line setup! The last guy who owned the truck (or whomever!) plumbed nearly all the brakelines about as close to the exhaust as possible. I wanted to avoid that stupid mistake, so I have gone out of my way to keep the lines cooler than they've ever been on that truck... copying as best I could newer model chev's (80's) I ran the front brake lines forward in the engine bay from the prop valve. driver front side bends down and back along the inside of the frame, to connect to the driver brake hose. passenger front goes to the same point forward, then down and across the frame support under the radiator, then back inside the frame towards the pass brake hose. the rear line heads out and down towards the firewall from the prop valve, avoiding wiring harnesses and the steering column, as well as the exhaust, where it bends back and down and across the manual transmission cross-member. from there, it runs inside the frame again, all the way to the rear axle and it's single brake hose, which t's off to both rear brakes.. I replaced the lines from as close to the rear brake hose, as possible, but basically it's stock routing, but 3/16 line instead of 1/4. anyway, I plumbed up the rear line last night to the prop valve, and finished the 2 lines from m/c to prop valve. I also realized I needed to remount my prop valve from being solid on the fender, to hanging somewhat freely (like most guy's setup)... otherwise, what's the point of the coils & extra bends to keep vibration from killing your lines, right? So I will cut up some bar stock, put it in the vice, do some bending and shaping and a little paint for a mount, that will be in basically the same spot underneath the m/c. I also adjusted the vac booster pushrod outward about 1 full turn from it's factory position. I of course, totally forgot to measure it with the digi-caliper... but it's only two bolts to get the mc off, so no biggie... I'll post up a figure after I've bled and test driven the brakes just to be sure I post a number that actually works... here's one more question for you all: because my truck sees alot of water and mud, is there any harm or benefit to running RTV along the seam between the m/c and booster??? the old one had some buildup in this area -- everything worked, but it was there none the less...perhaps rtv would keep it clean? __________________ 1964 K10 shortbox Stepside 383 sbc stroker under vortec heads sm420 trans / t221 tcase / corp 10 front axle / corp 12 rear axle / 3.73 gears rolling on 33x12x15 tires on 6 lug rims. Last edited by pheengurs; 05-13-2011 at 09:06 AM.



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